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Long time no post

  • Thread starter Thread starter bull999999
  • Start date Start date Aug 17, 2004
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bull999999

New Member
Jun 26, 2004
112
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Aug 17, 2004
#1
  • Aug 17, 2004
  • #1
It's been quite hectic around here but here's a quick post on the progress of my project Stang for those who read my posts in the past.

I bought a universal lock and tumbler and installed it without a hitch.

For the aftermarket gauge panel, I decided to go with the Haneline panel with the gauge set. I wired that sucker up and installed it. I still need to hook up the speedo cable and install and hookup the oil pressure sending unit, but other then that, everything works like a charm.

As for the suspension and the rear send, I've decided to keep the I6 parts for now and just go with the front disc conversion kit. The reason being is that both the front end and the rear seem to be in a good shape. I believe the reason being is that a V-8 with an auto (C4) at the mile high elevation (Denver, CO area) probably doesn’t put much more power to the ground than the I6 with manual at the sea level. If I ever put in something wild in the engine bay, that's when I go with hi-po front and read end and save the front disc kit for an I6 restomod.

I will be receiving the front disc brake kit this week and when that’s done, it’s time for the body work and a paint job!
 
O

Ozsum2

New Member
Jul 28, 2004
695
1
0
Aug 23, 2004
#2
  • Aug 23, 2004
  • #2
bull999999 said:
It's been quite hectic around here but here's a quick post on the progress of my project Stang for those who read my posts in the past.

I bought a universal lock and tumbler and installed it without a hitch.

For the aftermarket gauge panel, I decided to go with the Haneline panel with the gauge set. I wired that sucker up and installed it. I still need to hook up the speedo cable and install and hookup the oil pressure sending unit, but other then that, everything works like a charm.

As for the suspension and the rear send, I've decided to keep the I6 parts for now and just go with the front disc conversion kit. The reason being is that both the front end and the rear seem to be in a good shape. I believe the reason being is that a V-8 with an auto (C4) at the mile high elevation (Denver, CO area) probably doesn’t put much more power to the ground than the I6 with manual at the sea level. If I ever put in something wild in the engine bay, that's when I go with hi-po front and read end and save the front disc kit for an I6 restomod.

I will be receiving the front disc brake kit this week and when that’s done, it’s time for the body work and a paint job!
Click to expand...



If you jet it down it will be fine. I changed from 50 to 46 and Mine runs great at some 5000 feet above you. I know I could mop an I-6.
 
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bull999999

New Member
Jun 26, 2004
112
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Aug 23, 2004
#3
  • Aug 23, 2004
  • #3
I'm pretty sure an I6 up here will be even more slow than the I6 at sea level. I noticed that cars at Bandimere Speedway (about 5800 ft ASL) runs about a second slower than the cars at the sea level.
 
O

Ozsum2

New Member
Jul 28, 2004
695
1
0
Aug 23, 2004
#4
  • Aug 23, 2004
  • #4
bull999999 said:
I'm pretty sure an I6 up here will be even more slow than the I6 at sea level. I noticed that cars at Bandimere Speedway (about 5800 ft ASL) runs about a second slower than the cars at the sea level.
Click to expand...


By jetting down you take the "choke" out of the mixture and get it as good as it can be. Helps reduce the bog. I haven't dyno'd mine, but I am quite certain it is doing better than a sea level I-6 car.
 
B

bull999999

New Member
Jun 26, 2004
112
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Aug 23, 2004
#5
  • Aug 23, 2004
  • #5
Ozsum2 said:
By jetting down you take the "choke" out of the mixture and get it as good as it can be. Helps reduce the bog. I haven't dyno'd mine, but I am quite certain it is doing better than a sea level I-6 car.
Click to expand...

Sure hope so! The Holley recommends that you go down one jet size per 2000 ft ASL. What's your experience regarding jet sizes for high altitude tuning?
 
O

Ozsum2

New Member
Jul 28, 2004
695
1
0
Aug 23, 2004
#6
  • Aug 23, 2004
  • #6
bull999999 said:
Sure hope so! The Holley recommends that you go down one jet size per 2000 ft ASL. What's your experience regarding jet sizes for high altitude tuning?
Click to expand...


When I was in Yuma, the 2100 Autolite had the stock size 50 jets. It always ran rich and fouled the plugs because the auto choke wouldn't open quickly enough even with adjustment. I put on a manual choke to keep the butterfly open and never needed to choke the car even in the winter. This helped the carboned plugs. Since getting to 10,200', The engine was sluggish to say the least but still ran. Vac was down and the C4 had a hard time shifting. I talked to the Pony Carb folks and they suggested going down to size 46 jets. Since the replacement, things are fine, and the tailpipe is even starting to clean up some.
 
O

Ozsum2

New Member
Jul 28, 2004
695
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0
Aug 23, 2004
#7
  • Aug 23, 2004
  • #7
Another thing I noticed was my vacumm went from around 17 to 18 to almost 10 up here. This I found out was common because you need to add 1" of vac for every 1000' you go up in sea level, so with some tuning and the new jets, my now 13 is really 23 with a steady needle which would indicate a healthy engine.
 
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