Long Tube install help

Chico01

New Member

Mar 10, 2004

34

0

0

Apr 8, 2004

#1

• Apr 8, 2004

• #1

I'm pumped to get my BBK long tubes and x-pipe installed this weekend but I wanted to get a few helpful tips from those of you that have gone through this already. I've read the fnsweet install instructions but I don't want to remove the K. Here are some of my questions
1 do I need to remove the starter and the air compressor
2 EGR and dipstick seem to be difficult to put back in from what I've read, any tips on this
3 BBK header bolts don't come with washers. did anyone buy and use locking washers or Loctite on the bolts?
4 how high I'm I jacking up the engine?
5 anything else to watch out for
thanks!!

 

C

CottonBurnerz

Banned

May 10, 2003

1,554

0

0

Drink and Drive = Teh Lose

Apr 8, 2004

#2

• Apr 8, 2004

• #2

Did mine in my driveway.. lots of pics in my site at the sig.

I remember asking zillion questions before I install mine as well

Here are the answers:

1. Yes I have to remove the starter to put on passenger side header

2. Dip stick is not a problem at all (although my friend said that's the most difficult part for him). And for the EGR.. I (#$*(%)&@)$ at that thing all day. I even broke the bolt that connects to the plenum. Tips for that is to remove the EGR plate that connects to the plenum. Then put the bolt on the LT. Then reinstlal the EGR plate.

3. no washers are needed. If you reuse the stock bolts like I did. You might find one of the bolt hitting the tube when tighten it. It's the 3 bottom bolt from the front of the car I believe. You might want to trim that.

4. I have to drop the engine down to tighten the passenger bolts WITH A SHORTY 1/2" OPEN ENDED WRENCH

5. Be careful.. it took me 3 days to do it.. and have fun any more Q's just shoot

again.. there's pics in my site in my sig

 

nickthegenius

Active Member

Dec 23, 2002

1,631

1

38

Elwood, IN

Apr 8, 2004

#3

• Apr 8, 2004

• #3

1 do I need to remove the starter and the air compressor

Starter, yes. A/C compressor, no.

2 EGR and dipstick seem to be difficult to put back in from what I've read, any tips on this

Not sure about the dipstick, but the EGR is much easier if you disconnect it from the upper plenum on the intake, tighten it at the header, and then re-install it to the plenum.

3 BBK header bolts don't come with washers. did anyone buy and use locking washers or Loctite on the bolts?

I would reuse the factory studs. This has been discussed over and over at Modular Depot and most people have had the best luck with the factory studs. Plus, they make it really easy to rehang your new headers. Otherwise, you will spend a lot of time trying to get them in just the right spot to start a bolt.

4 how high I'm I jacking up the engine?

I got mine up about 2.5"-3". Whatever side you are jacking up, unbolt it and leave the other side bolted down. Otherwise it will go straight up and you won't get as much clearance for the header. I already pulled that stunt.

 

2

2002BLGT

Well-Known Member

Dec 18, 2003

2,945

4

59

Bedford VA

Apr 8, 2004

#4

• Apr 8, 2004

• #4

I used the bolts they sent , no loctite , no washers , no problem , as for the dipstick , I saw T&J had a perfect idea for this after I had monkeyed with mine and got it in , they cut a slot in the header flange on the driver side to clear the stupid dipstick , the flange is so thick cutting it doesnt affect the sealing or structure of it at all . EGR tube was somewhat of a pain but not impossible ,

 

2

2kyellowgt

New Member

Feb 10, 2003

224

0

0

Nanuet, NY

Apr 8, 2004

#5

• Apr 8, 2004

• #5

I did my Jet hot L/T in my driveway and its a PITA. I first tried to do the install with the K member in place but after 8 hours of struggling I decided to take it out. Once the K Member was out the install took about 2 more hours. You can get all the bolts tighter with the K member out of the car and it really isnt al that much extra work.

I also installed stage 8 bolts, they are cheap insurance for a job you will not want to do again. Make sure you also get some good gasket either the stock ford ones or a soft copper like a Percy's gasket will be the best.

What ever you decide leave yourself plenty of time and patience.

After you get the just the headers installed make sure you start it with open pipes you wont want an exhaust after that.

GOOD LUCK

 

pony_vert02

New Member

Mar 16, 2004

285

0

0

AUSTIN,TX

Apr 8, 2004

#6

• Apr 8, 2004

• #6

no comment....just inquiring, as i might get long tubes in the future and want to know what i'm getting myself into should i decide to install myself...

 

D

ds02torchgt

New Member

Feb 26, 2004

16

0

0

Apr 8, 2004

#7

• Apr 8, 2004

• #7

every 4.6 mustang should experience this install. it like a right of passage. it is not that bad. and i feel if you can do long tube without going nuts you can do anything. dont be scared, just like what was mentioned before leave yourself plenty of time well worth the effort!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Chico01

New Member

Mar 10, 2004

34

0

0

Apr 8, 2004

#8

• Apr 8, 2004

• #8

thanks everyone!!! guess I'm in the garage for the next couple of days, I hope it all goes smooth!!

 

C

CottonBurnerz

Banned

May 10, 2003

1,554

0

0

Drink and Drive = Teh Lose

Apr 9, 2004

#9

• Apr 9, 2004

• #9

ds02torchgt said:

every 4.6 mustang should experience this install. it like a right of passage. it is not that bad. and i feel if you can do long tube without going nuts you can do anything. dont be scared, just like what was mentioned before leave yourself plenty of time well worth the effort!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Click to expand...

That's exatcly how I felt.. and it was my second mod..

good luck m8

again.. if you have any questions at all just ask.. we'll be here

 

2

281Ponies

New Member

Nov 14, 2003

190

0

0

Apr 9, 2004

#10

• Apr 9, 2004

• #10

I'm glad I stumbled in here.

Good to know information, thanks guys.

-Cale

 

StangLou

Active Member

Jul 9, 2003

1,264

0

36

Holly Springs, NC

Apr 9, 2004

#11

• Apr 9, 2004

• #11

Seems like you have the right advice so far I just cant be without my car for more than a day so I had someone do it for me If you take your time and think everything through I dont think it will be a problem at all for you.

 

JCKnife

Founding Member

Feb 21, 2002

602

0

0

Ohio

Apr 9, 2004

#12

• Apr 9, 2004

• #12

I might try this next winter. Is there an article or single set of instructions someone can point me to?

 

M

millatime

New Member

Oct 23, 2003

370

0

0

Palm Harbor, FL

Apr 9, 2004

#13

• Apr 9, 2004

• #13

JCKnife said:

I might try this next winter. Is there an article or single set of instructions someone can point me to?

Click to expand...

I don't have the exact website on hand but if you check out Bill Putnam's website, hes got instructions on how to do this install and change out the k member for a tubular one while your down there.

 

JCKnife

Founding Member

Feb 21, 2002

602

0

0

Ohio

Apr 9, 2004

#14

• Apr 9, 2004

• #14

millatime said:

I don't have the exact website on hand but if you check out Bill Putnam's website, hes got instructions on how to do this install and change out the k member for a tubular one while your down there.

Click to expand...

I don't want a tubular K member. I'm not setting up a drag-only car. If Bill's instructions involve pulling the K member, I'd still like to know how to do it without. (much respect to Bill, he's the best!)

 

M

millatime

New Member

Oct 23, 2003

370

0

0

Palm Harbor, FL

Apr 9, 2004

#15

• Apr 9, 2004

• #15

http://users.adelphia.net/~mustang-92/k-member_longtube_install.htm
this way involves removing the k member

I was wondering if the tubular k member would be beneficial for autocrossing...guess not?

 

nickthegenius

Active Member

Dec 23, 2002

1,631

1

38

Elwood, IN

Apr 9, 2004

#16

• Apr 9, 2004

• #16

Quite a few people like these instructions. I didn't use them because I didn't drop the K-member. But there are lots of pictures and looks like solid info.

http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml