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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Longtube Final install questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter AJ99MustangGT
  • Start date Start date Feb 22, 2004

AJ99MustangGT

Member
Mar 27, 2003
218
0
17
Fenway Park
Feb 22, 2004
#1
  • Feb 22, 2004
  • #1
I am about to finally install longtubes an O/R prochamber and a borla cat back on my 99 gt... what else do i need beside what came in the boxes... should i get stage 8 locking fasteners? Do i need O2 extender cords and MIL eliminators? Wnything else i might be forgetting? Where do i get new gaskets?
 

nickthegenius

Active Member
Dec 23, 2002
1,631
1
38
Elwood, IN
Feb 22, 2004
#2
  • Feb 22, 2004
  • #2
Although I have used Stage 8 bolts in the past with good success, when I was researching headers I found that most opinions on here are that the Stage 8's on these cars are a major PITA and that most end up using the stock fasteners. Some people mentioned threading problems while others said that trying to install the locks and c-clips was almost completely impossible in the room that you have to work with in the GTs engine bay.
 

stangman

15 Year Member
Jul 10, 2003
2,690
10
69
in a 3 bed, 2 bath
Feb 22, 2004
#3
  • Feb 22, 2004
  • #3
you will need the mils, & the o2 extenders. & on the o2's you will need the 12" extenders specifically have fun
 

XtorT'r

New Member
Jun 11, 2003
381
0
0
Minnesota, YAAA
Feb 22, 2004
#4
  • Feb 22, 2004
  • #4
One big suggestion.... DROP THE ENGINE!!!! Put more clearly, jack the body up and un bolt the k member from the body. If you don't, your gonna be there alot longer and your gonna have alot more frustrations. I wanted to pull the engine when we got started and my mechanic buddy said "Nah, we won't need to do that." :damnit: . Now he won't do long tubes in Stangs with out droping the engine.
We didn't drop mine and it took 4 guys & 1 mechanic 15 hours with food breaks.
 
S

san~man

O-G
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,546
3
78
A little grass shack on a big lava rock
Feb 23, 2004
#5
  • Feb 23, 2004
  • #5
You don't need to drop the engine, that's too much work.

Drop the K-member and support the engine. My mechanic used a contraption (don't know the technical name for it) to hold the engine up when the K-member was removed.

He ended up doing it in less than 3 hours.
 
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