Looking at a 99 GT

Get it checked out by a mechanic but I wouldn't be scared of a 100K Mustang if it's been maintained halfway decently and not heavily abused. I drive one with 125K everyday and never think twice about it.

The engine should last forever and so should rest of the drivetrain unless they previous owners liked to shift as if it was a racecar all the time. If the car is sound then you should only have to worry about normal old car stuff... suspension probably could stand to be freshened up at this point, engine accessories will eventual fail and need replacing... eventually you'll need a new clutch if it's a 5 speed but my TOB went bad before the friction disc wore out and I was over 100K at that point. The Track-Lok is probably close to worn out if not already. The good news is that parts are readily available anywhere for these cars and relatively inexpensive and the cars a fairly easy to work on too.

1999-2001's do have a potential issue with the intake manifold cracking at the coolant crossover tube. Look for the thermostat on the drivers side front of the intake If the intake has a metal crossover tube across the front then it has been replaced with the upgraded intake and you shouldn't have anything to worry about. If the tube is plastic then it may or may not have been replaced. If/when it cracks, a new replacement intake is <$200 and can be replaced in a few hours more-or-less depending on your skill and surprises. Earlier cars are also affected but I'm still waiting for my intake to crack so who knows - I wouldn't let that issue get in the way of acquiring a Mustang.

Interiors hold up pretty well. Little things may may break here and there (my radio buttons are falling off one-by-one) and the seat foam will compress and deteriorate with age. Cloth seats seem to hold up well appearance-wise but leather seats start cracking after just a few years.

Oh, my valve seals went bad at about 120K and she started smoking like crazy at stoplights but I think the later engines were improved in that regard.

Get a CarFax report.

+1 on everything above.

Get a CarFax report. If the seller will not provide a VIN number, walk away.

Run a KBB.com report on your car. It will give you a ball park value. Note, Mustang GT's sometimes fetch higher prices than KBB private party values. Expect to pay a little more (not a lot more).

If you have a ODB scanner, take it with you. Look for "readiness tests completed". Sometimes sellers will disconnect the battery to make a check engine light go away. A short test drive may not be long enough to make it re-occur. If the battery has been recently disconnect, this will show up as "readiness tests NOT complete".

If you do not own an ODB2 scanner, most auto parts stores (Autozone and other big names) will scan the car for free.

If buying from a private party, ask to see the title. Ensure it is free of leins. Consider completing the transaction at the local title office (unless you are very familiar with the process).

brtnstrns said:

Hey everyone,
I used to own a 66 mustang but made the unfortunate decision to sell it when I headed off for college. Now, a few years later, I'm back in the market but looking at late models. Anyway, I've found a stock 99 GT with 106000 miles for $6000. It looks to be well maintained and in good condition and owned by a family rather than some 16 year old kid that decided to race it everywhere. I'm understanding of a 10 year old car having that high of mileage and I know a lot about late model mustangs. However, since I've never owned one I don't know common maintenance issues past 100k miles. If anyone can give me any insight on what to look out for and what questions to ask that would be great.
Thanks!

Click to expand...

Well, the 99's still had the aluminum idler pulley arm. You might want to ask the current owner if he went to the steel arm. The IAC valve , ask if it's original. There were several TSBs/recalls - regarding the e-brake and the cruise control linkage.

I would double-check everything as far as the AC (bring to shop, and have them do a "sniff" test

If stick shift, test the clutch by trying to roll in 5th gear - if it stalls, you are probably OK.

Test the multi-function switches on the steering column. Have Autozone check for codes. Etc.

Check condition of coolant - not green , not maintained, probably.

Check for leaks in the intake manifold, too.

Look under car for welds, "pranged" parts. Shake exhaust. Look for leaks underneath.

Ask for maintenance records/receipts , if possible.

Good luck !

Hanging revs is probably just the TPS sensor more than likely. Not a big deal! As for expecting tons of issues... I bought my 95 GTS about 6 months ago with 86k on it. First thing was the TOB - that went out after a couple months, but I was driving it like a 16 year old who just got a driver's license. Since then, I drive like a granny unless I'm at the strip - then it's on. The issues my car's had are just minor things - it's never been out of commission more than a day or so at the very worst. The 4.6 motors are indestructible, though! You'll love it!

The rev down issue is by design from Ford. There are kits to change the size of the the hole size in the IAC gasket if it really bugs you. Look on ebay.

It doesn't really bother me. To each his own.

good luck

good luck on your new ride I have a 99 & she had a few problems but like all the other guys said witha car fax they are good machines I have passed 150,000 & its still fast & reliable I would jump in & head out anywhere ! change your oil & filter with the correct oil & you will have fun for a cheap price ..... the original cost of my 99 was almost $30,000 it had all the options { I paid nowhere near that } I have had a few Mustangs but the 4.6 is a good motor with a good brakes & all else ...its a fun car loud & fast I put the SLP exhaust & she still gets looks ....have fun & enjoy