Looking To Get My First Mustang, Could Use Some Experienced Input

2th Doc · Apr 25, 2013

So I'm looking to get my first muscle car and have always loved the style of the 99-04 mustang. I've looked around here in Phoenix for the last little bit and there's a few good ones here and there, but I think I've found the ideal stang for me (at least at my allowable price point ) and would love some tips on shopping for a mustang, classic tell-tale signs, things to look out for, etc. The price seems a bit high maybe? Then again, I guess it's worth what someone will pay for it, and if it's the best of its kind at the time, maybe that can be justified.

I read through the forum rules and still am unsure as to whether or not I can post a CL ad link in this situation, so I guess I'll just say it's a 2003 FORD MUSTANG premium GT for $9400 in Phoenix. Blue exterior, leather, manual, 79k miles, supposedly good maintenance records. Any input you guys (and gals, I'm sure there are some out there) could provide would be appreciated! Thanks.

BlackenedSVT · Apr 25, 2013

The price sounds reasonable for the year and mileage. Though I've admitedly haven't
bought a stang in years. I've only recently started parusing thes forums again =)

The first things to consider when purchasing a mustang are first, your age and insurnace
rates. And 2ndly, what you'd like to get out of the car. Is it going to be track only? Daily
driver? Road-Coursed? Or a mix of everything.

Mustangs, especially your 1st one, will often lend it self vulernable to dreaded ''mod bug''.
So be cautious with your money. Don't over extend your credit/cash by purchasing a car
to for too much money, or worse, immediately starting to mod it then.

I'm 29 now, and have had a few mustangs. I think I got my first when I was 20. And I
certainly wouldn't be typing this advice back then hahaha. I'm much older and wiser now.

As far as maintenance goes, if you're buying an automatic (which I wouldnt' recommend),
79k miles is a good time to service the transmission, since it likely wasn't done. Hardly
anyone ever does that. But if its a manual, be sure to drive it, test the clutch, make sure
you're not purchasing something thats going to be a money pit.

Asking the owner if its ever been to the local track, or if they have some timeslips could be
a good indicator if its previous use. But don't be scared of that. Its a mustang GT, its likely
seen some action. You can do simple checks like inspecting the back wheel wells for rubber
residue to see how often they do burnouts.

But the most important thing I look for, when purchasing a car, is making sure it won't need
new tires, brakes, or has cracked rims, etc etc. And if it will need those things, negotiate it
into the asking price. If they wan't $9,400, but its going to need new brakes all around, I'd
maybe tell them 9k even. You get the idea.

Don't negotiate price right away. Just check the car out, see if its what you like, maybe drive
it around. Talk price last. Because then you can use what i said above as negotiation tactics.

Mustangs (and GTs) re a dime a dozen, don't feel compelled to settle. I realize thats NEAR
IMPOSSIBLE to do, for a 1st mustang purchase, but good luck to you. Hope that helps =)

COramprat · Apr 25, 2013

That is right at the blue book value. I bought an 03 Saleen last November and the credit union gave me that price as a loan value (they don't recognize specialty cars when determining loan value).
Look at the leather for wear. My car had 92K when I bought it and the drivers seat shows a little wear on the left lumbar support. The rest was in great shape. Carpet is good, not crushed or stained. Check the paint for imperfections. Likely a few dings and such but for them to get the high end of book value it would have to be perfect, nearly showroom quality. Look at the engine bay. Someone who cares about the car would keep this clean if not spotless. Make sure there isn't any signs of moisture or oil. With 79k miles it shouldn't have any of those issues.

2th Doc · Apr 25, 2013

Thanks to both of you for your very helpful feedback.

The purpose of the car is to be my daily driver, but I plan to make a hobby out of it as well, if/when any extra money comes around. I have two kids and a wife who loves her makeup, so I won't be socking away thousands into it at any one time, but maybe an exhaust here, headers there... nothing too extreme, yet anyway.

So I just got back from the test drive. When the guy pulled up in it after having just washed it, it was stunning to watch it roll up... the perfect combination of color and wheels in my opinion, and the paint was glossy everywhere, with only 2 main painted-over rock chips that caught my eye.

The leather looked like in really good shape, I couldn't see any cracks and definitely looked less worn than expected. I didn't think to look too close at the carpet (I took the wife and 2 kids with me so I feel like I may have overlooked a lot; I plan to look it over more intensely before I pull the trigger), but I don't remember thinking "Wow this is trashed". I did notice it looked like someone had an obsession with dash shine, as there was buildup around the letters on the passenger side dash. The interior could use an actual cleaning wipe down, but it all looked in good shape.

The tires were probably 50%, but F/R brakes were replaced just 6k ago. The service record was pretty thorough from about 50k on (the guy bought it @ 27k), with around $5k spent doing mostly fluid maintenance, and intake manifold replacement if I remember right. The engine compartment didn't have a nice recent detail, but it did look "clean" and I didn't see any evidence of leaking.

What did surprise me was the ride/transmission/clutch, and I'm hoping maybe someone can comment on this. It's probably important to know that I've been driving an automatic 2005 Civic VP (75k on odo) for the last 3 or so years, so I'm used to a very light, zippy, tight-ship vehicle. I have no reason to believe that this mustang is in anything other than great shape, I just haven't yet test driven another similar mustang to compare it to to see if these things are common/standard or not. But, I first noticed that the ride was somewhat rough (all this is compared to my Civic), and rough areas of asphalt made it feel like the shocks/struts needed replacing. Also, the clutch travel seemed very stiff and long () , with a very sharp engagement point just barely off the floor. This, combined with a stock shifter, made it hard to imagine smoothly and precisely shifting through the gears to achieve any sort of sustained acceleration. Can this all be chalked up to the fact that it's a heavier and/or stiffer car, and I just need to get used to the way it shifts? I haven't driven a stick for 3 years, so that could be plausible.

As far as the clutch goes, I didn't notice any slipping under heavy acceleration, and I tried something my dad taught me (effective or not?), to put it in 4th or 5th at a dead stop and pop the clutch to see how quickly the engine stalls. It pretty much stalled instantly, so I'm guessing the clutch is still just fine. Overall, it just didn't seem like such a tight ride as my civic, and maybe that's just because I'm (ridiculously, I know) comparing apples to oranges, and the fact that the car is still 10 years old. Despite all this, I'm not at all saying it wasn't fun to drive... I'm just used to a tight and responsive car, and I'm wondering if I should expect that from an 03 mustang in great shape, or if the ride I experienced is just what comes with an older, heavier car.

COramprat · Apr 26, 2013

It is a heavier car and the solid rear axle suspension is as old as we are. It will ride a little rougher than a Civic especially if it has been lowered. Getting into the suspension can be expensive but if you want to tighten the ride you can go that route. My car rides rough as hell but it hangs curves like it is on rails with the Racecraft suspension Saleen puts on these cars...much better than my old 96 GT.

The clutch disengage is likely just a stretched cable...they do that with age but there is a trick to tightening it up. In the engaged (up) position lift on the back of the pedal with your toe. You should feel a click as the quadrant tightens up the slack. If not then it is probably at it's limit...nothing that a new quadrant and a firewall adjuster won't fix. It may have one already and they have it set to engage at the floor and can be adjusted to your liking. If not, maybe a good first mod.

Good that the intake manifold was replaced although I don't think there was a real problem with them in 03 like there were on previous models. Just do a search here and you'll find more issues than you can count.

No cracks or wear in the leather is a very good sign.

Did they mention any aftemarket modifications?

BlackenedSVT · Apr 26, 2013

Yeah like COramprat said, the honda has an IRS (independent rear suspension) so it
will ride much more smoothly on the street. The GT because of tis Solid-Rear-Axle
and its heavier weight will ride more rough.

The 99/01 SVT Cobra's as well as the 2003-2004 Cobra's have the IRS suspension.
Some prefer it, as it rides much more smoothly for a daily driver. However those who
enjoy drag racing more, prefer the Solid-Rear for better/easier launching.

2th Doc · Apr 27, 2013

That makes sense then comparing the IRS vs the solid rear axle, hadn't thought of that. There have been no aftermarket mods to the one I'm looking to get, all stock. I did finally find another 03 GT 5-speed today that I was able to test drive, and it surprised me. It wasn't in the best shape, although not horrible... but the ride surprised me. The shifter seemed less notchy (but didn't seem like an aftermarket shifter) than the blue 03 I'm looking to buy, and the clutch travel and engagement was much smoother. So, I'm looking to check out this blue one one more time and see if I was over exaggerating the feel of the clutch/shifter since it was the first time I've driven a stick in years, or if it's really that irregular. Could these symptoms be signs of some major clutch/transmission problems I should look out for, or is this more of just a cable/adjustment issue? Are there any other ways I could test the clutch/tranny? I'd like to seal the deal on it tomorrow if it feels right... but I just want to be thorough on my last inspection. I plan to take it to a shop to have it looked over professionally as well. Thanks for all the responses, you guys have been a great help.

BlackenedSVT · Apr 27, 2013

Well its been a while since I tested a clutch like this, but I think if you leave it in 2nd gear while running
at idle, and dump the clutch, it should stall immediately. If it putters and takes a pause or a second before
it stalls, the clutch has some significant wear on it and isn't grabbing right away.

Obviously that isn't something most car owners are going to let you test while in front of them haha. You
could just try driving it around on some hills, and see how it grabs as you try and drive up the hills. It
should be smooth. If you feel it slipping and struggling on the hills, then you have some clutch problems.

Both of these methods however will only display situations where the clutch is already BAD and needs to
be replaced. Aside from a visual and mechanical inspection of the clutch, there is no way to tell if the clutch
is ALMOST BAD, or perfectly fine.

Also, on a side note: MGW short shifter is the only way to go. =)

Looking To Get My First Mustang, Could Use Some Experienced Input

2th Doc

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BlackenedSVT

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COramprat

...I can take it. I think.

2th Doc

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COramprat

...I can take it. I think.

BlackenedSVT

Active Member

2th Doc

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BlackenedSVT

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Looking To Get My First Mustang, Could Use Some Experienced Input

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