Loose Doors

K

Ken86GT

Founding Member

Sep 25, 2000

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Ocoee, Fl

Dec 17, 2006

#1

• Dec 17, 2006

• #1

Have a 1990 GT Convt. Over the past year the doors have managed to work loose so that they rattle when driving the car. They seem to be aligned ok, just have a slight give to them when closed. Is there an easy way to tighten? Looked at the stike plate and not sure if that can be loosened and moved. Any tips...

Ken

 

8

86bluecobra

Advanced Member

Dec 20, 2004

4,265

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B.C. Canada

Dec 17, 2006

#2

• Dec 17, 2006

• #2

well the door mounts themselves should be welded on the doors. Are the pins ok? can you wiggle the doors up and down? if so time for a new set of pins.

 

jrichker

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Dublin GA

Dec 17, 2006

#3

• Dec 17, 2006

• #3

Hinge pin & bushing kits are available at many auto parts stores. Or see http://www.texasmustang.com/ or http://www.mustang-unl.com/. Usually less than $7 for the kit with one pin & 2 bushings.

Th hard part is to get the old pin out. Some were spot welded in, others were hammered so that the end mushroomed. Either way, it takes a grinder or cutter bit in a drill or Dremel tool to cut the pin or grind off the weld. Once it is off, tap the pin out with a hammer. Only remove one pin at a time so that you don't have the full weight of the door to manage. I highly recommend that you have a helper standing by to hold the door.

Once the old pin is out, lower the door and tap out the old bushings. Put the new bushings in and have the helper lift the door in place so that you can slide the new pin in. It may have to go in differently from the way it came out. That's OK, as long as you put the cotter pin in the hinge pin.

OOOPS!!!The important thing to remember is that the hinge pin isn't supposed to move once you are finished. If it does, then you will end up like me - the pin moved, it wore the door hinge instead of the replaceable bushings. Now in order to fix it right, I have to remove the whole thing again and drill out the hinge to the same size as the bushing and use 2 sets of bushings in each hinge rather than one set.

The fix for the OOOPS was very time consuming and if you aren't up to some very interesting machine work, do it right so you won't have to do it again. I fixed the OOOPS but I had $43 worth of drill bit and specialized reamer plus pulling the fender off to fix it.

 

K

Ken86GT

Founding Member

Sep 25, 2000

217

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Ocoee, Fl

Dec 17, 2006

#4

• Dec 17, 2006

• #4

Thought about the door pins, but figured I did not need those since the doors will not move up and down. The doors do not seem tight when closed, the rattle to no end! Is this a sign of needed door pins? or something else?

 

89streetbeast

New Member

Dec 4, 2006

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horton,ks

Dec 17, 2006

#5

• Dec 17, 2006

• #5

sounds like the door weatherstripping is shot. if the door and quarter panel meet together evenly, id suspect weatherstripping. you can always loosen the striker and move it back a hair to see if tightens the fit up. door might be sunk in a little but wont have the rattle there to annoy you lol.

 

K

Ken86GT

Founding Member

Sep 25, 2000

217

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Ocoee, Fl

Dec 17, 2006

#6

• Dec 17, 2006

• #6

This is a convertable by the way. Checked weatherstripping and is good. Tried to use a Torx T50 to loosen the bolt, but no go. What does it usually take to loosen the bolt?

 

89streetbeast

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Dec 4, 2006

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horton,ks

Dec 17, 2006

#7

• Dec 17, 2006

• #7

first time loosened mine up i broke 2 torx bits made for impact guns lol. ended up using an old shop rag and some vise grips to get it loosened.

 

K

Ken86GT

Founding Member

Sep 25, 2000

217

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Ocoee, Fl

Dec 17, 2006

#8

• Dec 17, 2006

• #8

Looks like I have my work cut out for me! Using a standard wratchet, probably need to put a pipe on the end to get some leverage and soak it in bolt loosner

 

89streetbeast

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Dec 4, 2006

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horton,ks

Dec 17, 2006

#9

• Dec 17, 2006

• #9

one quick reminder , when you pull up on the tool you are loosening, if your pushing it down your tightening lol. just to make sure its goin the right way. sometimes i tighten stuff instead of loosening it then the bolt or whatever just snaps off lol.

 

stangster50

New Member

Nov 19, 2006

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cranston ri

Dec 18, 2006

#10

• Dec 18, 2006

• #10

that only works on the drivers side though.lol

 

89streetbeast

New Member

Dec 4, 2006

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horton,ks

Dec 18, 2006

#11

• Dec 18, 2006

• #11

good eye lol forgot the pass side is backwards.

 

TomCat

New Member

Apr 19, 2005

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Utah

Dec 18, 2006

#12

• Dec 18, 2006

• #12

The striker still has the bushing on it right? I've known a couple people that think the striker is just a metal rod. Mine shook, put new bushing in and bingo, no more shaking.

 

K

Ken86GT

Founding Member

Sep 25, 2000

217

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Ocoee, Fl

Dec 19, 2006

#13

• Dec 19, 2006

• #13

You know, you have a good point. No it does not have anything on it. Just the metal rod. What should go over this? and where do you purchase? Have not seen this.

 

89streetbeast

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Dec 4, 2006

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horton,ks

Dec 19, 2006

#14

• Dec 19, 2006

• #14

the strikers should have a thich plastic/rubber peice that goes on there, helps tighten the door up. 5.0 Resto sells them for like 5 bucks a peice but ive heard they arent really that good. might hit up your local dealership and see if they can get them, or go swipe some off a junkyard car for the time being

 

K

Ken86GT

Founding Member

Sep 25, 2000

217

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0

Ocoee, Fl

Dec 19, 2006

#15

• Dec 19, 2006

• #15

Ok, that is what is missing. Actually, don't think they have been on the door since I have had the car (2 years now) but I have never noticed the doors rattle. I'll check out 5.0 restro and local ford dealer.