Melbourne area stangs

Well I went with an american thunder cat-back for my cobra once I saw that a dynomax ultra flow race magnum setup is $480. I know I won't get rid of all the metallic sound, but at least having a full cat-back on now should get rid of a lot of that horrible resonating sound. If this doesn't fix it, I am going to shoot someone, then guy buy an O/R H-pipe, put that on, and hope my friend with a 98 Cobra will want my X-pipe.
 
Originally posted by 5.0's 4 ever
Well I went with an american thunder cat-back for my cobra once I saw that a dynomax ultra flow race magnum setup is $480.

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't that just the same as you have now, Flowmaster 2 chambers only with tailpipes?

I didn't like the idea of having a car that sounded like all the other Mustangs with Flows, so I went with an Edelbrock catback on my 95 Cobra. It doesn't resonate and has a deep mellow tone that gets pretty loud at WOT. The mufflers are stainless steel and have a lifetime warranty as well. I believe I paid about $50 more than the American Thunder would have cost me through Summit.
 
Originally posted by Glenn88lx
Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't that just the same as you have now, Flowmaster 2 chambers only with tailpipes?

Pretty much the same setup except that it will be a full 2.5" from X-pipe back now. I think its all in the dumps causing my problem. I have heard other people's sound clips on a 4.6 with an x-pipe and flowmaster cat-back and they don't have a resonating sound like mine does.
 
FRPP a-arms

Glenn (and others) who have installed FRPP M-3075-A front lower control arms with SN95 balljoints into a Fox car:

Does this require the 0.330" spacer, or is that only with later model spindles? Do the arms significantly increase track width, or is that only if you use a 99+ one? Should I purchase some new a-arm bolts from Ford in case my old ones won't come out?

I'm a little confused by the information I'm finding on message boards, so I hope someone's done this before! I'd like to order the parts today.
 
I'm up for the meeting tonight at Cinemaworld. Haven't gotten tickets yet...but the movie came out like a week ago, so seating shouldn't be too terribly bad. I hope. And this is about the same price as Bennigans, so why the hell not.

MY CAR GETS DONE TOMORROW! God damn I can't wait. It's gonna sound so lopey from that cam....hell, it'll look like it's HEAVILY cammed because of my tiny injectors and stock stall speed on the converter....can you say stall?
 
Well, we found out today that it wasn't the power steering at all. :doh: It's the radiator. I'm going to need a new one. It's no longer covered by warranty, but my dad is going to call my uncle at Greeneway to see if they can swing something for warranty work.
 
1Bad89: Actually I'm going with the B303 pulled out of Dave's car.. I heard your audio clip...about 15 times already man..I LOVE it. I've been linking everybody to it and saying "this is what I'm hoping my car will sound like when it's done". So if your server has been freaking out lately...my apologies. :D Once the cam is in, my mod list will be:

4.10 POSI
Cobra Upper/Lower Intake
Equal-Length Shorties
Off-Road X Pipe
Dual Flowmasters (open mufflers..no turndowns or tailpipes)
B303 Cam
FMS 1.6 Roller Rockers
Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads

The transmission is an AOD with the factory stall speed...which is why I'm concerned...because it's so tight, and this cam is meant for a 5 speed. But once the transmission blows, I'm ordering a GER Full Competition AOD with a 3000 stall converter.

Erich....maybe they can just seal it up for cheaper? Some places will do it, some won't... It may not be the BEST idea...but it'd be a hell of a lot cheaper than a new radiator, which is probably upwards of $200 with labor factored in.
 
Originally posted by Wolfhound
Erich, take a look at the Steeda radiators. They have some nice ones. :D

Actually, despite the fact I know you're being sarcastic about my hatred towards Steeda's suspsenion, I have looked at them, and plan on getting one if I don't decide on stock. Stock I can get for $150, which is prolly what I'll wind up with (on account that dad is paying). If not, Steeda is $350.

OrLackThereOf: Even though the thought crossed my mind to find someone to just seal it up, I think it might just be best to get a new one.

lxsteed: what's up with the egg thing? :shrug:
 
Originally posted by erichmess_
lxsteed: what's up with the egg thing? :shrug:

It's an old trick that actually works depending on how bad the leak is. Separate the yolk out of a raw egg and drop the white into the rad (without the shell of course :D). If the crack isn't that big, the white will seal it up and harden. I've used it a couple times with good results.

BTW, I got the lights today droptop. Thanks!
 
"It's going to be great. (Of course, Gainseville is a really small town, too. D'oh!)"

yeah, it's not THAT big, but it's still fun. i live about 10 minutes from there(depending on who's in the car with me) and it's a blast. pretty cool crowd of people. what are you gonna take at the UF? (GO GATORS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
 
Re: FRPP a-arms

Originally posted by tooler
Glenn (and others) who have installed FRPP M-3075-A front lower control arms with SN95 balljoints into a Fox car:

Does this require the 0.330" spacer, or is that only with later model spindles? Do the arms significantly increase track width, or is that only if you use a 99+ one? Should I purchase some new a-arm bolts from Ford in case my old ones won't come out?

The M-3075-A arms should be a direct replacement with no alterations needed. Unless your bolts are rusted up you should be OK with the original ones. I was able to reuse the ones on my 88LX without a problem.
 
Originally posted by OrLackThereof
1Bad89: Actually I'm going with the B303 pulled out of Dave's car.. I heard your audio clip...about 15 times already man..I LOVE it. I've been linking everybody to it and saying "this is what I'm hoping my car will sound like when it's done". So if your server has been freaking out lately...my apologies. :D Once the cam is in, my mod list will be:

4.10 POSI
Cobra Upper/Lower Intake
Equal-Length Shorties
Off-Road X Pipe
Dual Flowmasters (open mufflers..no turndowns or tailpipes)
B303 Cam
FMS 1.6 Roller Rockers
Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads

The transmission is an AOD with the factory stall speed...which is why I'm concerned...because it's so tight, and this cam is meant for a 5 speed. But once the transmission blows, I'm ordering a GER Full Competition AOD with a 3000 stall converter.

Erich....maybe they can just seal it up for cheaper? Some places will do it, some won't... It may not be the BEST idea...but it'd be a hell of a lot cheaper than a new radiator, which is probably upwards of $200 with labor factored in.

Sounds like a nice little set up your going with. My friend had a e cam with the stock converter in his mustang and I don't think he had too bad of idling problems. Some times he'd have to keep up on the gas pedal though just to make sure it wasn't going to stall on him.
 
Re: Re: FRPP a-arms

Originally posted by Glenn88lx
The M-3075-A arms should be a direct replacement with no alterations needed. Unless your bolts are rusted up you should be OK with the original ones. I was able to reuse the ones on my 88LX without a problem.
I ordered them earlier today.

I doubt I'll make it to the autocross practice tomorrow. I need to save some money. I still want to do the event for the good competition, but if not, I'll be by to say hello.
 
Originally posted by 1Bad89Coupe
Sounds like a nice little set up your going with. My friend had a e cam with the stock converter in his mustang and I don't think he had too bad of idling problems. Some times he'd have to keep up on the gas pedal though just to make sure it wasn't going to stall on him.

Thanks man... Unfortunately, I decided against the B303 at this point in time. Worried about leaning out. So I'm sticking with the stock cam. The cons of that are less top end power and I won't have that nice lope.....but at least I'll get to keep my gas mileage (or what's left of it), good driveability, and good low end torque. Can't wait to drive it with the heads and rockers on...I'd say that's a solid 50-75 horsepower increase. Whewee it's gonna be fun.