Anyone know if it is possible to get the metal trunk divider that comes with this rear seat divider separately?
That's one way to do it. I've seen the others like @2Blue2 posted, but I'm a bit turned off by the lack of reinforcement. Might as well just make it yourself if you're going to just use a piece of metal sheet.I saw that one, but have never seen it offered except as one piece....I think its a Dynacorn specific part...you can't get it separately. You are better off buying one from MAC's($60 ish) and pick up an Eastwood bead roller(They offer an 8" one for $80) and roll a couple of your own beads in there...though for such a large piece you would be better off with a 12" bead roller, but even an 8" should do the trick.
That's one way to do it. I've seen the others like @2Blue2 posted, but I'm a bit turned off by the lack of reinforcement. Might as well just make it yourself if you're going to just use a piece of metal sheet.
This is something I won't have to worry about for a while. I'll put a bead roller on the list.
That figures. 22 gauge is what I used to build the new vent hats on my lower cowl since I couldn't get 20 gauge locally. It is really, really thin. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Maybe get a bead roller and an pull the trigger on a sheet of 18 gauge and make my own.I would agree with you...if it weren't for the fact that the metal alone in the correct size costs almost as much as MAC's part(I know, its why I bought the MAC one). However...I have yet to install that particular piece(it gets installed after interior sandblasting since I will be welding it in). I will say that I am disapointed in how thin the MAC piece is though...I am guessing its 22 gauge...I would prefer to work with a 16-18 gauge piece for that.
To be clear though...there are only 2 reasons to use a metal divider:
1. To prevent gas entering the passenger compartment in the event of a rear end collision(I think this is a rather silly concern myself and could just as easily be achieved with a piece of plastic or metal installed over the tank...it also doesnt stop it coming up through the package tray anyway.
2. Torsional Rigidity...that infamous torsional rigidity test thread showed it to be the single most effective modification...when used to stiffen the unibody though, there is no need for reinforcement since the panel is working to reduce twisting flex, it already has all the strength needed in the plane that it is installed in. That being said...when I install mine, I already have some x-bracing ready to go I am installing behind it...mainly to eliminate the drum effect of large flat pieces of metal.
That's one way to do it. I've seen the others like @2Blue2 posted, but I'm a bit turned off by the lack of reinforcement. Might as well just make it yourself if you're going to just use a piece of metal sheet.
This is something I won't have to worry about for a while. I'll put a bead roller on the list.
I would imagine that a metal sheet that covers that side of an area would tend to flex and make noise without some reinforcement for rigidity.Why does it need reinforcement? The purpose is only to prevent gasoline splash. I've been thinking about putting in a fuel cell in my 68 because of this reason and because I hate the rear gas cap. I wouldn't mind opening the trunk to fill-er-up.
I would imagine that a metal sheet that covers that side of an area would tend to flex and make noise without some reinforcement for rigidity.
The sheet I bought years ago was steel and did not flex that much. It's supposed to be welded in.
I already have some x-bracing ready to go I am installing behind it...mainly to eliminate the drum effect of large flat pieces of metal.
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