Miss at idle. Any ideas?

My car ran great, then after swapping in a T5 from my Tremec, I have a bad miss at idle. If I give it any throttle at all, it revs smooth and drives fine. It's only at idle. I can feel it through the seat when it does it.

When I installed my S/C I changed the cap, rotor, plugs and wires. My fuel pressure is set to 38 psi, I moved it around a little but no change. The MAF is stock but the wires are clean. I have a Pro M going in on Monday when I get my tune.

Is it possible that one of these old 19 lb injectors got damaged by the FMU? I haven't really seen any kind of REAL boost yet(anything over 5psi), but I did see around 60-70 psi on the gauge while in boost.


Like I said, either it didn't do this before the trans swap, or it did and I just feel it more now because I might have disturbed the motor mounts making them sit different and transfer more vibes through the body.

Should I just go have it tuned with the new injectors and MAF and see if it fixes it?

Also, I changed my TPS and there was no difference.

I'll go ahead and run another cylinder balance test.

Ok, here are the results of a thorough engine code procedure.

Cylinder balance test: Well, the very first run, at temperature, revealed that #1 cylinder was acting up. So I ran the test 2 more times and I got code 9's for nothing wrong. Why did this happen?

KOEO: 334 = EVP Sensor was/is High.
564 = Fan Circuit Failure
My fan works just fine, why does it keep saying that there's a failure? I just installed a brand new fan motor today as a fire precaution so I know that's not the problem.

KOER: 314 = AIR Inopperative , Left or Front HO2S
311 = AIR system not working - Single, Right or Rear HO2S

Is it correct that since I have my smog removed completely that the above two codes are coming through?

when I go to get a tune on monday, what do I tell them to do to get rid of the smog codes? I'm suprised my EGR isn't malfuctioning, it's all rigged! I'll have that deleted from the EEC too. Also, what do I tell them to take out for the "tip-in retard"?

Thanks!

nevermind on the EGR thing, I see now that EVP is EGR Valve Position sensor. I have it held about half way open with the home made plate between the EGR valve and the EGR spacer.

Thanks! Yeah, I gotta regap all my plugs anyway before the tune because I have them at 35 and I'm gonna go ahead and try 28. My car never had a miss before and it may be because of the 24's being in there now. Am I correct in thinking that higher heat range plugs kinda "Keep" themselves clean?

My car runs good through the RPM's with my fuel pressure set to 42, but idling suffers, it may be fouling out that one plug. When I backed it down to 38 psi, it idled alot better. I ran the CBT with it at 42 psi.

Just took the car for a drive and it ran pretty good. It's pretty cool outside so I think maybe the ACT sensor being in the wrong place may have something to do with it. It does run like crap when it's warmer/more humid outside.

I'm gonna move the ACT into the discharge tube and go from there.