did you run the codes? Go back and recheck all the vacuum lines, spark plug wires,. It doesnt matter if the tooth is "off" one as long as you can dial in the timing correct you are fine. Either the distributor will adjust to the correct timing or it won't regardless of being one tooth off. You also need to retorque the intake after a few cycles. One of the bolts may have backed out,
If you think the intake gasket slipped, spray some carb/TB cleaner around the perimeter of the lower intake and see if it smooths out.
If you think the intake gasket slipped, spray some carb/TB cleaner around the perimeter of the lower intake and see if it smooths out.
true, poor choice of words on my part. once the dizzy is in you can adjust it with the car running by leaving the bolt just barely loose and rotating it slightly till the engine runs the best.
just saying it could be anything you removed and spraying does not always work. i say redo the install.
Glad to hear you got it fixed.
That is a common place for a leak as the gaskets tend to slip and slide if they are not given enough time to set or get bonked/crimped when laying the intake. Can't say it hasn't happened to me in the past, especially when you mill the intake or heads.. I like to use some threaded rods as studs on the intake corners to set the intake on and then remove the rods once it is set and then replace them with the bolts. I would go back and retorque all the bolts once it goes through a few heat cycles.
Hopefully you didn't use those crap cork end gaskets and either used the blue rubber ones with some RTV at the ends or just a nice bead of RTV and let it set up. I also like to put some red RTV around the water jackets.
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Bingo! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Bingo! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
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