MM Suspension...Which Package?

I'm no suspension guru, but I'd do the Sports Box over the coil-over. Actually...I'd do the Road/Track box just becuase it comes with bilsteins over Tokico's and race instead of sports springs. Maybe you could talk with MM and see if they'd swap out Bilstein's and race springs with the Starter box for a few extra bucks. That'd be your best option in my uneducated opinion. Coilovers are great, but you're getting a lot more stiffening out fo the other boxes, which will also help you at the strip.

PLEASE do not f'n convert a Bullitt to coil over

That Bullitt is worth far more stock and is likely to be a collector car some day

well if you want ride quality the coil overs should give you an advantage. it is espensive though. just cause you have coilovers does not mean you don't need panrard bar, control arms, subframes etc. I mean if money were no object I would have the maximum grip package. that is not the case though.

the sport box might ride nicer but the road and track will outhandle it.

I did mine in stages due to the cost. basically started with the starter box, then added subs and rear control amrs, next will be the panhard bar. then the k-member brace. I got strut tower brace for my birthday but if I go with the KB it won't fit.

I would not worry about modding the suspension personally. mainly because the stock suspension is so bad how can you not mod it have a car that really handles.

If you can afford them I would go with the coilovers. the only reason they are not on my car is amount of cash in my wallet at the time.

I ponder ditching the supersports for them from time to time just to try to get some better ride quality. on really carppy surfaces my car rides harsh.

dont really look at coilovers as an easy way to drop the car for corners.... yes there is ride height adjustment ability, but its more for finetuning then casually rausing and droping it... remember every time the height changes, so does the camber... thus the need (recommended) for an alignment every time. its more or less to dial it in to where it needs to be, then leave it alone...

coilovers reduce unsprung weight, allow for stiffer ride with softer springs (think angles and location) and faster more stable movement of the parts. I will be getting front coilovers, but think i will be leaving the rear seperate.

from MM when i E-mailed them last: subframe connectors, springs, struts/shocks, CC plates, LCAs, PHB, Torque arm (i think i will be using the evo tri link though) and then move to the front with coilovers, A arms, k member + k brace/accessories, then fine tune with swaybars.

the standard black and white answer from MM comes down to subs first, period, fix the rear, then go to the front. I did it out of order and went springs/dampers first, now going subs and swaybars (already purchased, or i'd get LCAs and PHB) then LCAs, PHB, Tri link, coilovers (front) A-arms K member and all the needs (tie rod ends, endlinks, look at MM k member package to see the rest)

i will be getting the whole gambit as i am not nearly happy with my springs and dampers... so i'll re-evaluate after my subs, swaybars, LCAs, and PHB are on and see then if i need to move to the front (100 bucks says i feel i need to) so, its horridly addicting... i've done power mods, but i got the handeling sickness over the power hunger... so, i hope i have offered some insight from MM, as well as my own.

on a side note i really like www.stangsuspension.com for awesome prices. thats where i got my bilsteins and HR race springs. noticed a good difference in handeling, almost no sacrafice in ride comfort (thanks to the bilsteins), but i still wanted more. personally, i'd go the same route, but getting subframe connectors first, then step into LCAs, and the PHB, and sit it out for a bit to see if you want more, and where that more needs to come from. actual handeling is a math/science game, not just tossing on eibachs and calling it a day. I dont claim to know everything, but Tom does

Torinalth

QU!CK said:

I'm torn between getting MM's coil-over package + panhard bar or the sport box.

I want my Bullitt to be able to:
-Run strong through the mountain twisties
-Still putting down respectable numbers at the drag strip
-Not beating me up too bad during daily driving

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For a couple hundred dollars more over the CO package and PHB, you can get the R&T Box.

It's not the best for street use but it is tolerable on most road conditions, it's a great feeling when driving though If you do get it you could install almost everything but the PHB and welded Subs.

i love my setup.

tomustang said:

If you do get it you could install almost everything but the PHB and welded Subs.

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why could he not install the PHB?

hognutz said:

why could he not install the PHB?

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I'm sure 99% of us don't have a lift at home, the car would need to be equal off the ground and have a high enough clearance for measuring/install

this is being stated for at home purpose, i know alot of people dont have welders either but for installing a K member brace you don't really need alot of tools you know

hmm though I read you could use jack stands. guess I need to go re-read the directions.

yeah says you can use jack stands.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/instructions/MMPB99Ar1.pdf

I've had both setups, coilovers and regular H&R springs and Bils struts/shocks. The ride on the C/O seemed "softer," but to me the ride on the H&R feels stiffer. Hard to explain.

I took the C/O off because the back kept rubbing and making a god awful noise. When we removed it, the threaded tube was ground down on the upper portion toward the top. I just couldn't deal with the noise.

IMO, get the H&R's, Bils, LCA's and PHB. Don't forget full length SFC's. That should "probably" suffice for you. Considering the price of the C/O kit, you can get the H&R's, Bils, SFC's and LCA's for about the same amount of coin. If you consider what you're getting going that way versus the C/O, you will handle far better for a bit more money.

Good luck.

I installed my PHB in a garage w/ 4 jack stands and a level. Took the better part of a day. I didn't weld mine in as it would limit the accessability to the diff., the cross brace in the back sits about 1" off the diff. cover. Install can be done with regular hand tools and a good drill bit, emphasis on good drill bit.

QU!CK said:

I'm torn between getting MM's coil-over package + panhard bar or the sport box.

I went to the mountains with some import friends over the weekend and wow, what an experience! I think the Bullitt did well to be on stock suspension but it could defintely stand some improvement. We plan on making more frequent trips...

www.tailofthedragon.com (318 turns in 11 miles)


I want my Bullitt to be able to:
-Run strong through the mountain twisties
-Still putting down respectable numbers at the drag strip
-Not beating me up too bad during daily driving

Suspension Guru's, school me.


-J

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I had bullitt suspension before switching to the MM stuff I have. Coilover will drop some weight for the track, but it is stiff and won't help you off the line much.. The most economical way to make your car carve friendly would be H&R SuperRace springs with Bilstein dampers all around + LCA's. Panhard bar would definately help, but costs and arm and a leg to install.

Wade