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Modular fox build

  • Thread starter Thread starter africansnowowl
  • Start date Start date Nov 1, 2020

africansnowowl

Active Member
Apr 29, 2020
82
35
28
San Antonio
Nov 1, 2020
#1
  • Nov 1, 2020
  • #1
I posted an initial thread awhile ago about the 87' GT I bought from a co-worker for $100. Well a few months ago the engine took a dump, and the T-5 would grind in every single gear and sometimes didn't want to go into reverse, so it was time to do something with the drivetrain.

I pulled the drivetrain and the engine/ecu harnesses out and sold it all to help fund my project. I knew I wanted to do a modular engine, so I decided to hit up a junkyard and start finding some of the parts needed. First up was a stock K-member out of an 04' V6. I also found a complete hydro boost setup out of a 98' GT, and bought a reman steering rack for 99-04 and the MM hybrid shaft. I honestly thought the hydro boost swap was going to be the most difficult thing about this swap based on all the other forums I read through, but it wasn't bad at all. The lines from the 98' GT were not a perfect fit, but they worked.


The MM brake line kit for this swap made easy work of that.


I found a complete 4.6 from a very low mile 2002 Mountaineer. I thought this would be a cool engine to use since it's all aluminum. I hit up the junkyard again to try and find the mustang accessories for this engine.
It became apparent that I would have to swap the timing cover to a mustang one. No possible way to mount the power steering pump otherwise. Also, the mustang timing cover had one bolt hole that didn't line up. The intake manifold could have worked, but the heater hose location was different and would have been in the way. Found a mustang one for cheap. Since I was using a stock K-member, I decided against longtubes and went with shorties. I grabbed a 98' GT fuel rail at the junkyard so I could re-utilize my fox fuel lines. About half the coils were bad, so I bought a MSD set. I decided to use the Mountaineer injectors, but they required adapters to work with the 99' GT harness I had. The Mountaineer also had a different alternator, so swapped that one out for a mustang version.


Test fitting, it dropped right in like it was meant to be there.


Got the engine and trans(T-45) in place and started putting everything together. Used the stifflers crossmember for the trans. The coolant tank is just sitting there as to get an idea. I re used my fox radiator which has the SVE electric fans on it. The 4.6 radiator hoses were a perfect fit to it. I used the engine, ecu, starter, and dash harnesses out of a 99' GT, and for now have left the body harness from the fox in place. I'm going to try and basically make the 4.6 a standalone harness. I'm using an Autometer gauge cluster I built, so the gauges are all working on their own wiring.
I had a tune written to a handheld device to disable PATS and work off a return style fuel system, along with the other things they do in a performance tune.


The front end now sits quite a bit higher.
Things I have left to do: Waiting on my aluminum driveshaft to show up, hook the exhaust up(Bassani catted X), finish trying to figure out the wiring, and bleed the brakes/hydroboost system. I've been working with someone over on the modularfox forums with the wiring, so hopefully it won't be too bad.
 
Reactions: Wayne Waldrep, Cheapskate207, BlakeusMaximus and 5 others

Potomus Pete

I'm still waiting for the fully nude shots
5 Year Member
Mar 7, 2019
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Sarasota Florida
Nov 1, 2020
#2
  • Nov 1, 2020
  • #2
africansnowowl knows what he is doing nice work
 

95BlueStallion

My assy trans to myself
15 Year Member
Feb 22, 2007
5,124
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Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Nov 1, 2020
#3
  • Nov 1, 2020
  • #3
That’s a lot of work brother! I hope it runs well when you’re done!
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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Acworth, GA
Nov 1, 2020
#4
  • Nov 1, 2020
  • #4
That's some quality work. However, I am not understanding the Modular logic. The 4.6 is as under powered as the pushrod. Everyone has moved on to the Coyote now.

Kurt
 

africansnowowl

Active Member
Apr 29, 2020
82
35
28
San Antonio
Nov 1, 2020
#5
  • Nov 1, 2020
  • #5
A 2v simply just to be different. The all aluminum one to be even more different. It should run really good. I spent a lot less money doing this than I would have rebuilding the 302/T-5, and modifying them enough to make/hold decent power. A coyote was just too far out of the budget range currently. Maybe once I grow tired of this combo...
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
27,826
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203
polk county florida
Nov 1, 2020
#6
  • Nov 1, 2020
  • #6
There is a super charger for that right?
 

Adieu

Easy there, this ain't a dating site.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 7, 2002
9,531
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224
Nov 7, 2020
#7
  • Nov 7, 2020
  • #7
revhead347 said:
That's some quality work. However, I am not understanding the Modular logic. The 4.6 is as under powered as the pushrod. Everyone has moved on to the Coyote now.

Kurt
Click to expand...
I keep telling you...

Just

Add

Boost

When you can pick up 4.6L 2v and 4v aluminum block engines for $200-300 all day, you can afford a lot of parts to make it faster.

I'm on pace to have 500-550 at the flywheel with my build for under $2000 and that's including the cost of rebuilding the TR3650 I picked up and buying a clutch and flywheel. That's Coyote power for 1/4 the budget, and the 4.6L engines look better, not all that black plastic everywhere, and sound better with their 351W firing order than the Coyotes do with that oddball firing order they have.

I get where this guy's going with his build, even if he stays N/A and just ends up with a fun, good-sounding, high-revving cruiser, it'll be different, it'll be cool, it'll sound good, and when he opens the hood, it'll cause double-takes.
 
Reactions: wannaBelkhuntin and revhead347

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
234
Birmingham, al
Nov 7, 2020
#8
  • Nov 7, 2020
  • #8
MustangIIMatt said:
I keep telling you...

Just

Add

Boost

When you can pick up 4.6L 2v and 4v aluminum block engines for $200-300 all day, you can afford a lot of parts to make it faster.

I'm on pace to have 500-550 at the flywheel with my build for under $2000 and that's including the cost of rebuilding the TR3650 I picked up and buying a clutch and flywheel. That's Coyote power for 1/4 the budget, and the 4.6L engines look better, not all that black plastic everywhere, and sound better with their 351W firing order than the Coyotes do with that oddball firing order they have.

I get where this guy's going with his build, even if he stays N/A and just ends up with a fun, good-sounding, high-revving cruiser, it'll be different, it'll be cool, it'll sound good, and when he opens the hood, it'll cause double-takes.
Click to expand...
The red car had a 2v stock ported head, stage 1 cammed engine that ran damn good. Every bit as good as any similar 5.0 would’ve.
In every instance,..adding forced induction turns this engine into a very formidable street car at a fraction of the cost of a comparable 5l build. ...And dressed properly,...it looks way better than the Ho-Hum 5.0 does.
 
Reactions: wannaBelkhuntin and Adieu
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