More body stabalization without caging?

[2Tone5.0]

More body stabalization(Reduce flexing) without caging?

Been going through hell with my 92 GT. Had to take the blower off until I get another tune done. Thinking of just running it without it for a while possibly. I already have the welded sub-framing job done. A friend of mine had one of those stabilization bars going across the engine underneath the hood. Are they more for show or do they help a tad and will help prevent the body from twisting? (Hasn't already, but would enjoy it not happening).

I like to keep my car more on a street side since I don't hit the track often and not punch holes in it to put a cage in. (Put in a decent set of speakers in last year). Any more subtle changes to help stabilize the body would help.

P.S Just passed for emission exempt! woo!!!

 

[tannerc91gt]

Supposed to prevent flex, they make them for the rear too, but it's hard to prove how much exactly they help, couldn't hurt though

 

[skunk21]

strut tower braces on mustangs work. I like the MMS one, it uses the factory holes in the pinch weld along the fire wall (this is a very strong area) and is a very nice piece. There are others out there that bolt to the flat area of the fire wall in front of the cowl opening. I have seen pics of tearing of the sheet metal from the bar flexing, this is a weaker area but it also could be the design of the bar causing it, not sure but it doesn't seem like the best way to mount a strut bar. I also have the 4 point K brace from MMS, something else to look at since this is another movement area in the fox. another option that is often overlooked is a panhard bar, I kinda view it has a brace in a way. The other braces described work great to tighten the chassis which we know is pretty floppy and with the increased chassis stiffness it sometimes brings out the other weak areas never felt like rear axle movement or rear steer under hard cornering (a product of the 4 link suspension even with improved arms). The pan hard bar locks in the rearend has far as side to side axle movement goes and compliments the improved chassis/suspension, this is an option though and something to think about has a piece to the puzzle.

 

[2Tone5.0]

strut tower braces on mustangs work. I like the MMS one, it uses the factory holes in the pinch weld along the fire wall (this is a very strong area) and is a very nice piece. There are others out there that bolt to the flat area of the fire wall in front of the cowl opening. I have seen pics of tearing of the sheet metal from the bar flexing, this is a weaker area but it also could be the design of the bar causing it, not sure but it doesn't seem like the best way to mount a strut bar. I also have the 4 point K brace from MMS, something else to look at since this is another movement area in the fox. another option that is often overlooked is a panhard bar, I kinda view it has a brace in a way. The other braces described work great to tighten the chassis which we know is pretty floppy and with the increased chassis stiffness it sometimes brings out the other weak areas never felt like rear axle movement or rear steer under hard cornering (a product of the 4 link suspension even with improved arms). The pan hard bar locks in the rearend has far as side to side axle movement goes and compliments the improved chassis/suspension, this is an option though and something to think about has a piece to the puzzle.

Ok great thanks ill look into some of those. Do you know what the other rear bar tannc91gt was talking about?

 

[1991notchbackLX]

Ok great thanks ill look into some of those. Do you know what the other rear bar tannc91gt was talking about?

It's called a rear shock tower brace. Steeda makes one for our cars. The part number is ST-5555751.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

forget the rear tower brace it wont do anything when coupled with the right MM parts
Front Strut tower brace(does more than help a "tad")
4 Point lower k member brace, or aftermarket k member
Panhard bar
quality swaybars both front and rear
do all that and you are gonna have one stiff ride
another option is a HD torque arm, adds another crossmember to the subframes to further increase rigidity

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Have you swapped out the stock Springs and struts??? I'm using H&R Springs with Tokico Illuminas on my Convertible....Night and day difference.

What Sub frames are you using???? Do they go from the Rear Torque Box to the Firewall? Full Length? Maximum Motorsports makes an awesome XL Sub frame. You can add material to the sub frames and tie it in with the front and rear. Also you can have your K Member welded in. Do you have Torque Box reinforcement plates??? Everything counts.

 

[2Tone5.0]

Have you swapped out the stock Springs and struts??? I'm using H&R Springs with Tokico Illuminas on my Convertible....Night and day difference.

What Sub frames are you using???? Do they go from the Rear Torque Box to the Firewall? Full Length? Maximum Motorsports makes an awesome XL Sub frame. You can add material to the sub frames and tie it in with the front and rear. Also you can have your K Member welded in. Do you have Torque Box reinforcement plates??? Everything counts.

Stock struts and springs are replaced. I bought the car and it had a single air-bag in the right rear for track days. Not sure of the make on the welded sub frame connecting. However when turning the front of the car is stiff and the rear is very sway like. I think it is because of the air-bag drag system.