mounting locations for kill switch

dont know if this will work for you or not. could make a small L bracket and put 2 panhead screws in the frame rail near the rear bumper it would be mounted securely and would only make 2 holes less than an 1/8" diameter.

if it has to be visible you could make a bracket and screw it where the tag light bulb sockets go.

no prob

89streetbeast said:

dont know if this will work for you or not. could make a small L bracket and put 2 panhead screws in the frame rail near the rear bumper it would be mounted securely and would only make 2 holes less than an 1/8" diameter.

if it has to be visible you could make a bracket and screw it where the tag light bulb sockets go.

Click to expand...

thats a good idea!

Some guys get an old taillight and mount one into the light, maybe in the reverse light location.

I spaced out the lisence plate and hid the switch behind it. When racing just pull off the plate with a couple of wing nuts. I used a couple of studs with 2 nuts and then the plate and wing nuts. Makes for a handy kill switch that noone knows about. The plate was sandwiched in between the nuts.

This is what I did w/ mine

View attachment 409439

View attachment 409441

It now has a flip up bracket.

i like ur idea^^^

i used the cigarette lighter, to open and close the circut.

PRO50....that is slick

if you plan on taking it to the strip, you cannot have it behind the license plate. Check with the track about their rules. They have to be able to get to the switch, if something happens.

Thats why they take off the plate while at the track...

marine_2003 said:

if you plan on taking it to the strip, you cannot have it behind the license plate. Check with the track about their rules. They have to be able to get to the switch, if something happens.

Click to expand...

Hence the reason for the flip up/down tag brackets!!

ive had a real good idea, on this topic but i dont know if it would work... i was thinking of a simple toggle switch, underneath the ashtray... that way you would have to lift the door up, take the ashtray out and hit the switch. not to common of a place either... im sure it could be done, has anyone else ever thought of it ? or attemped this ?

For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10
gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang
wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/4" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when
the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the
40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/4" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies power
to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn the
Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.

The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer)
& Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground.


Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.