My engine just stalled out on me when coming up to a light, and would not start.....

BlackFox5.0

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Aug 7, 2000

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Massachusetts

Jun 16, 2004

#1

• Jun 16, 2004

• #1

I've been having a little engine miss lately. I checked over everything and replaced about everything as well, and nothing fixes it. Anyways when I was coming to a light, i step on the clutch and the engine dies out, I stop, and shut everything off and try to start the car, nothing.....Evereyone takes off, and I'm stuck...so I desperately try, i cycle the keey on and off thinking maybe i'm not getting fuel, didn't help. So i give it a little gas, and it almost goes, then fires up, i take out make a right turn, and go into a parking lot where i drove around, and everything seemed fine....So i drive home, pop the hood and lookaround, looks normal....I felt the TFI module and it was really hot, i couldn't keep my fingers on it thats how hot it was. I thought my TFI might be bad but everyone said my symptoms were nothing like a failing module. But since I had my A/C on at the time when it stalled out. i was thinking the electric fan was blowing hot air on the TFI causing to stop working till it cooled off, no?

Anyone got any clues? How much is a replacement TFI anyways?

 

astronut1885

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Jan 31, 2002

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Assonet, MA

Jun 16, 2004

#2

• Jun 16, 2004

• #2

Well, I know you're getting fuel, I know you're getting air, and I know you should be getting spark. You've replaced every thing but the TFI, so I'd say go for it. It's the only link in the chain not yet examined. That, or you have a bad ground somewhere?

 

bmorrisj

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Sep 26, 2003

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Buena Park, CA

Jun 16, 2004

#3

• Jun 16, 2004

• #3

before replacing it.... take it of and put some more thermal grease on the backside metal plate.... the lack of heat transfer is probably wreaking havoc on the electronics....

 

PrimerdFury

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Feb 26, 2003

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Fountain Hills, Arizona

Jun 16, 2004

#4

• Jun 16, 2004

• #4

I am having the same EXACT problem with my car. I replaced the TPS, IAC, cleaned the MAF to no avail. My TFI was replaced about 8 months ago...so I am hoping that isn't the issue. Anyway...let me know if you ever find out what is causing the problem and I'll do the same.

 

BlackFox5.0

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Jun 16, 2004

#5

• Jun 16, 2004

• #5

bmorrisj said:

before replacing it.... take it of and put some more thermal grease on the backside metal plate.... the lack of heat transfer is probably wreaking havoc on the electronics....

Click to expand...

I already did that. All the old grease was dried up and pretty much probably not working any more. While I had the TFI out, I tested it with a voltmeter per instructions I found on the web, and the first couple testes I did I got screwy numbers that were outrageously over what the website said it should be. I just continued on and the other numbers were fine. Then I went back to the ones I tested bad, and they came out normal....

I'm really thinking about just replaceing it with a stock replacement from like autozone....

 

B

Biggeley

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Mar 4, 2003

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Jun 16, 2004

#6

• Jun 16, 2004

• #6

BlackFox5.0 said:

Anyone got any clues? How much is a replacement TFI anyways?

Click to expand...

They're under $40. However, I would just take the distributor to your local auto parts store. They will be able to remove the TFI and test it to see if it's shot.

 

BlackFox5.0

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#7

• Jun 16, 2004

• #7

I think I'll just replace it, it's not only part of my ignition system that I haven't changed besides the distributor...

 

donkey_punch

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northern****ingjersey

Jun 16, 2004

#8

• Jun 16, 2004

• #8

its most likely the distributor. i just spent 2 months changing parts. and it turned out to be the distributor.
went through 2 sets of plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and coil. and changed the ignition module once. once it did the same thing after all that, the only thing left was the distributor. and sure enough she's running strong now.

 

dastang2

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Dec 11, 2003

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tx

Jun 16, 2004

#9

• Jun 16, 2004

• #9

why wouldn't a tfi module make those symptoms. i had an 84 bronco II 2.8 4x4 and the tfi started to act up. it would misfire, backfire and then croak on me, 10 minutes later it would start but then messed up on me again. those modules were the weak link because they were in a bad spot where heat liked to fry things.they cost around 35-40 dollars. your stator inside the dizzy could be bad too. i have seen that 2 times.we would be going down the road and all of a sudden it would die and not crank, wait a while and it would crank and drive only to repeat itself until finally it would not start back up.

 

BlackFox5.0

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Jun 16, 2004

#10

• Jun 16, 2004

• #10

I put a new TFI in and it doesn't seem to be any better...It stalls now, only after I touched my idle screw.... I was able to bring to idle down to like 650ish and be ok, but it has been idling at 1000 for some reason, and i tried to lower it by the idle screw...thats when the stalling problem happened....

I just discovered I have a blown header gasket, on the #5 cylinder, would that cause any of this?

 

jrichker

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#11

• Jun 16, 2004

• #11

If the IAC is inop, you would tend to stall. The computer reads the signal from the VSS sensor on the speedo cable and determines that the car is slowing down. The computer tells the IAC to open up a little more to increase the air flow past the throttle & speed up the idle. If this doesn't happen, the engine will tend to stall. Running the A/C, wipers or anything that makes extra electrical load makes the problem worse.

 

cleck673

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Feb 6, 2004

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Jul 23, 2004

#12

• Jul 23, 2004

• #12

I have an 86 and it does something similar, but it will not crank at all. It turns over and fires then dies immediatly vvvrrrROOooo---