my new 01 stang, got a couple of question?

jayk2k3 · Jan 6, 2011

Ok I just got this car like a month ago; it’s a 01 mustang 4.6l 5-speed. It’s my daily driver car, what do you guys recommend my first mods be (got to pass emission)? I don’t think I want to do any under drive pulleys (don’t want to weaken my charging or cool system), what else. Is there any hp to be gained by adding a catback? Also in the future where do I get new pads for these aftermarket brakes?

Mods the car came with:
Weld in Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
H&R Sport Springs
10th Anniversary Cobra Big Brake Kit (all 4 wheels)
2003 Mustang GT Wheels
Mach 1 Grill

Twete · Jan 6, 2011

It all depends on what you're looking to do with your car. Usually people will go with exhaust and intake first, and yes a catback will usually add some power. In your case you say the car has flowmaster weld ins so I'm assuming you're running the car's stock 2.25" pipes, if you do a full 2.5" setup (most aftermarket exhaust products) you will achieve better flow and a bit more power. As far as the brakes go, you say it has the 10th anniversary brake upgrade so you simply need to buy brake pads that fit the 2003 cobra model. Enjoy the new stang!

patman0911 · Jan 6, 2011

You'll get more enjoyment out of a short-throw shifter on a daily driven 5-speed than just about anything short of a blower (assuming it doesn't already have a shifter). I wish a shifter and a knob had been the first things I did to mine instead of the last.

I can take or leave the U/D pulleys - I have them but I wouldn't bother with them if I were starting over. For what it's worth, I haven't had any problems running warm, even down here in Alabama in the dog days of summer. Voltage does drop a good bit at low idle though - headlights dim & fan speed drops when they're on.

Agree about the brake pads, OEM style replacement '03 Cobra pads should do just fine for daily use - unless you're road racing or your daily commute includes descending a mountain, normal pads will generally be better.

Kornnut · Jan 6, 2011

Sub Frames
Shifter
Weld in mufflers
Gears
Tires(good set)
Tuner

Good little daily driver right there. All that AFTER I went through with a good maintenance check.

BillyT903 · Jan 6, 2011

This Mustang is actually my first ever stick shift and my gear-head brother says the same thing. Forget everything else for now and get a new shifter. But being a beginner the stock one seems fine to me. Also I sort of don't like how far forward it's set on the center console so that when my seat is in a comfortable position I have to lean forward a bit to shift and from what I can all after market shifters will make it even further forward because they don't have the bent bar the stock one has. But anyway, what is the huge deal with getting a new shifter? What huge improvement would a newb like me even notice? He says Pro 5.0 is hands down the one to get.

Morgstang · Jan 6, 2011

change rear end gears.....

patman0911 · Jan 6, 2011

BillyT903 said:
This Mustang is actually my first ever stick shift and my gear-head brother says the same thing. Forget everything else for now and get a new shifter. But being a beginner the stock one seems fine to me. Also I sort of don't like how far forward it's set on the center console so that when my seat is in a comfortable position I have to lean forward a bit to shift and from what I can all after market shifters will make it even further forward because they don't have the bent bar the stock one has. But anyway, what is the huge deal with getting a new shifter? What huge improvement would a newb like me even notice? He says Pro 5.0 is hands down the one to get.

The stock shifter isn't terrible compare to, say, an old VW Transporter... well, it's not really that bad, but once you get your hands on some nice European car, or one of the really slick shifting Japanese cars, the Mustang's shifter feels loose, overly long, and vague. It's hard to explain if you haven't driven many stick shifts but with the short-throw, the shifter will slip into gear with a more satisfying snick instead of a kinda mushing-around-and-maybe-you're-all-the-way-in-gear-and-maybe-it's-the-right-one feeling, and especially the upshift from 2nd to 3rd will feel a lot better and is easier to make without missing. The shorter throws feel sportier too instead of feeling like you're driving a truck.

I've got the Pro 5.0 and the reach is actually better than stock because the throw is so much shorter that 5th gear isn't over in the passenger's airbag and first gear isn't somewhere inside the radio anymore. Some of the aftermarket handles do have the dogleg, some are just bent a little and there are various optional handles that will put the knob where you want it for a better reach - most of them, beside the MGW, mount the same so you can mix and match till you find a combo you like.

BillyT903 · Jan 6, 2011

patman0911 said:
The stock shifter isn't terrible compare to, say, an old VW Transporter... well, it's not really that bad, but once you get your hands on some nice European car, or one of the really slick shifting Japanese cars, the Mustang's shifter feels loose, overly long, and vague. It's hard to explain if you haven't driven many stick shifts but with the short-throw, the shifter will slip into gear with a more satisfying snick instead of a kinda mushing-around-and-maybe-you're-all-the-way-in-gear-and-maybe-it's-the-right-one feeling, and especially the upshift from 2nd to 3rd will feel a lot better and is easier to make without missing. The shorter throws feel sportier too instead of feeling like you're driving a truck.

I've got the Pro 5.0 and the reach is actually better than stock because the throw is so much shorter that 5th gear isn't over in the passenger's airbag and first gear isn't somewhere inside the radio anymore. Some of the aftermarket handles do have the dogleg, some are just bent a little and there are various optional handles that will put the knob where you want it for a better reach - most of them, beside the MGW, mount the same so you can mix and match till you find a combo you like.

So how does one go about picking a shifter? It's not like I can test drive it. I am not sure why my bro says the Pro 5.0 is all he'd consider but the non-bent bar is a turn off to me, though I see what you're saying about the short throw factor. Also where would I take the car to have that put in? My regular mechanic or a specialty shop?

SublimeRT · Jan 6, 2011

Shifter? Go MGW and don't look back. And install it yourself. It's quite easy and there's plenty of information out there on how to do it if you're unsure.

Kornnut · Jan 6, 2011

Just get one of the big 3 shifters and you're fine. Pro 5.0, tri ax, or mgw. I had one of the cheaper ones on my 95(came with it) and hated it. I have a Pro 5.0 in my 02.

Rejekt · Jan 6, 2011

Yep, I agree. Any of the big name short throws will do just nicely.

1) Gears

2) SLP X with cats

3) SLP LM catback

4) K&N FIPK or equiv

etc etc etc.... I could go on and on. All about budget really.

crazystang25 · Jan 6, 2011

Mgw shirt throw, 3.73's, bilsteins, cc plates, midpipe.

Deleted member 38176 · Jan 7, 2011

1. Gears
2. Exhaust - catback (or just weld-in some mufflers) and mid-pipe
3. Tuner
4. Lowering springs

1fun281 · Jan 7, 2011

Kenne bell.... turbo...

Dark04GT · Jan 7, 2011

The best starting mods are:
1) weld in subframe connectors (maximum motorsports or steeda)
2) shifter (I like my steeda tri-ax)

From there it is more a matter of opinion and what you want to do with the car. Set some goals for your car early- good ones like you stated are it has to be good with emissions and it will be a DD. If you want more power skip all the minor stuff get a supercharger and than add all the minor stuff later.

COBRA90GT · Jan 7, 2011

Shifter. You'll never believe how nice they are until you ditch the factory shifter. LOL

SteedaGT9150 · Jan 7, 2011

shifting with a stock shifter is like shifting with a sloppy wet noodle

N8Dogg98 · Jan 7, 2011

or trying to f*** with whiskey d**k

SteedaGT9150 · Jan 8, 2011

N8Dogg98 said:
or trying to f*** with whiskey d**k

01GT eibach · Jan 8, 2011

1) Considering your existing mods, you likely REALLY need shocks/struts if you are still running stock. The OEM ones are not that good to start with, let alone after 10 years.

2) I did Steeda UDP and there was no noticable change in the AC. None ... and I spent two years in Texas with the car. This is easy horsepower with no downside.

3) Weld in some quality sub-frame connectors.

4) K&N CAI or (if the that is not state legal) a K&N air filter

my new 01 stang, got a couple of question?

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