My parts list and my problem!

[95BLKGT5.0]

I failed emissions. No cats
I have all new suspension set up waiting to go on the car, new headlights, new hood, new Mach 1 chin spoiler and new paint job.
I took a chance and did not pass emission Idle part.
Now I need to get it to pass so I can have everything installed before I paint it.

The Mustang Shop is doing the suspension install next Friday.
Then I am going to paint it. (maybe some ghost flames)

This is my set up:
Stock motor
AC deleted
MAC cold Air kit
MAC LT Headers
MAC PRO Chamber O/R pipe
MagnaFlow Catback
Stock suspension
Kirban AFPR
FMS 3.55 gears

Here are the numbers from my emissions test.

HC (PPM)

Cruise Limit: 150

Cruise Emissions: 124

Idle Limit: 220

Idle Emissions: 341

My Idle RPM was about 600 and a couple times it dipped down and I might have seen it misfire one time. I also know I have the dreaded pinning at WOT.
I know my car runs lean and the Idle was low.
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I found this about hydrocarbons:<o></o>
Hydrocarbons: <o></o>
Measured in PPM (parts per million), this is the result of unburned fuel making it out the tailpipe. This is different from the CO problem in that here the fuel has not started combustion at all. This failure is usually caused by an ignition (misfire), or an engine problem such as a bad valve. An engine running too lean will often have excessive HC due to what is called a "lean misfire". Any leaks in the intake system or bad injectors will also cause excessive HC due to uneven fuel distribution. <o></o>
Here the ideal reading again is 0 PPM. Most late model cars should run under 100 PPM with readings between 10 an 50 PPM being typical and a reading of over 220 PPM being the failure point for must inspection programs. Again, older cars are allowed more freedom although I find that most any car should be able to run under 400 PPM. <o></o>
<o></o>
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I know my car is running lean so if I turn up the Idle to about 750 and set the timing at 10 deg and richen it up it should pass right<!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shapetype id="_x0000_t75" coordsize="21600,21600" o:spt="75" oreferrelative="t" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" filled="f" stroked="f"> <v:stroke joinstyle="miter"/> <v:formulas> <v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"/> <v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"/> <v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"/> <v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"/> <v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"/> <v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"/> <v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"/> <v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"/> <v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"/> <v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"/> <v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"/> <v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"/> </v:formulas> <vath o:extrusionok="f" gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect"/> <o:lock v:ext="edit" aspectratio="t"/> </v:shapetype><v:shape id="_x0000_i1025" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" style='width:27.75pt; height:11.25pt'> <v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\Dan\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\01\clip_image001.gif" o:href="http://forums.stangnet.com/images/smilies/dunno.gif"/> </v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]-->

1) How do I turn the Idle up?
I have a hand held Tach/dwell meter.
2) How do I richen it up?
3) Can I richen it up using my APR and what PSI should I run?
I have a Kirban AFPR and rail mounted fuel pressure gauge.

Any other Ideas would help.<!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_i1026" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" style='width:12pt;height:12pt'> <v:imagedata src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\Dan\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\01\clip_image002.gif" o:href="http://forums.stangnet.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif"/> </v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]-->

The bummer about this is that I have all new suspension waiting to be put on.

Here is my parts list waiting to be installed.

Body

FMS Mach 1 chin spoiler.

Smoked Cobra headlights

SVO Cobra R hood

Suspension<o></o>
03 Cobra Updated A Arms $140.
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
mmfl-3pc MM Full Length Subframe Connectors Powdercoated Black - For 94- 04 Mustangs $141.95
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
CC9994 MM Caster Camber Plates - For 94-04 Mustangs $189.95<u1></u1><o></o>
<u1></u1><o></o>
UPR Bumpsteer kit $99.
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
mmfl-3pc MM Full Length Subframe Connectors Powdercoated Black - For 94- 04 Mustangs $141.95
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
CC9994 MM Caster Camber Plates - For 94-04 Mustangs $189.95
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
UPR Bumpsteer kit $99.
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
6-703 Prothane Stanard Rack Bushing non off set. $15.40
<o></o><o></o>
mmrlca-2 MM Adjustable Lower Control Arms Black - For 79-98 Mustangs $360.95
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
19-408 Prothane Front Swaybar Endlink Kit 4-1/4 inch - 94-04 Lowered $19.95
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
6-1137 Prothane Front Swaybar Bushings 30mm - 94-98 GT $14.95
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
6-1703 Polyurethane Spring Isolators - Front Set $26.95
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
6-1701 Polyurethane Spring Isolators - Rear Set $18.95
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
3510.140 Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs 79-04 4.6 & 5.0 V8 Mustang (and V6 Convertible) $224.95
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
M5500A Ford Racing Upper Control Arms - For 79-04 Mustangs $74.95
<u1></u1><o></o><u1></u1><o></o>
TOKPAK9404 Total Tokico Front & Rear Strut/Shock Package - For 94-04 Mustangs $316.50<o></o>

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[HISSIN50]

With cats, I can see your idle HC's dropping a good bit.

You can raise the idle setting by:

Cleaning the IAC if it's filthy.
Turning the throttle stop screw to adjust the idle.
Turning the idle bleed screw (I don't like this method, but you will find it in some repair manuals.

For emissions testing in general, I would not richen anything up. These cars can actually run rich at idle and lean just about at all other times.

Run the lowest octane you can get away with (more octane, when not needed, causes more pollution).

Keep timing in check. More advance is good for performance but not so hot for emissions. I set mine at stock for testing.

Again, the cats will be the biggest solution, by far.

Random thoughts. Good luck.

 

[JJ95GTID]

Backing off the timing will help also if you are running higher than the stock 10* setting.

 

[JJ95GTID]

If you had short tubes I would let you have my stock H-pipe. I don't need it.

 

[95five-oh]

without cats i cant see how you could pass, but try "guaranteed to pass" fuel additive. Costs like 6 bucks at advance or wherever. My car failed horribly with bassani cats, a bottle of that stuff and i passed with flying colors.

 

[95BLKGT5.0]

Thanks for the offer JJ95GTID
My timing was 3 deg off so I set it at 10 with the spout out.
My IAC is clean.
I run 93 octane so your saying I should try running just unleaded reg. 87 octane.
And then turn the throttle stop screw to adjust the idle to what say 750 or 800.
What should the fuel pressure be and do you disconect the vacum line and plug it?

 

[BlackVert]

have you looked into that "guaranteed to pass" stuff?

 

[JJ95GTID]

Yes, 87 octane is better for emissions.

 

[HISSIN50]

Thanks for the offer JJ95GTID
My timing was 3 deg off so I set it at 10 with the spout out.
My IAC is clean.
I run 93 octane so your saying I should try running just unleaded reg. 87 octane.
And then turn the throttle stop screw to adjust the idle to what say 750 or 800.
What should the fuel pressure be and do you disconect the vacum line and plug it?

Your idle plan sounds good to me - I dont like a real high idle but I like it high enough to be smooth. I've actually held the gas pedal down a little to smooth out the lopeyness while they sniff test it. Setting it manually like you plan is one less thing to worry about. If you start to get surging, you went a little too high above the commanded idle. I'm kinda anal and like to put a mark on the stop screw. I count ever turn I make and record it so I have a point of reference (and can put it back to where it was). Otherwise some folks end up in no-man's land with their idle settings.

If you were at 13* of advance (SPOUT out) and ran it back to 10*, that should help.

FP should be 30 PSIG or above at idle with the vac line attached (it's normally 32-33 PSIG, but 30 is low-spec). With the vac-line disconnected and capped (simulated WOT performance of the FPR), stock is 38-39 PSIG. You might not want to hose around with pressure a whole lot since the computer will just change the injector pulsewidth to accomodate changes you make.

Unless I missed something in your first post, you're pretty darn close to passing - getting the cats on there should be more than enough alone.

Good luck.

 

[94-302-vert]

run some guarnateed to pass and pull the spout so you get no timing advance...

worked for me... and I would out after that my EGR that I rigged to be opne still had a blockoff plate in it...

 

[jtb19nh]

do they do a visual inspection, if so you will not pass without cats.