Need Help ..... Have a Draw Somewhere

[SeventyMach1]

You can test a starter. Pull it out check the teeth on it and check the teeth on the flywheel, I'd do this beings you said its not "engaging" right. Heres where the redneckishness comes in lol. Run a ground and power wire to the starter and hook up the ground. With the starter laying on the ground or on a bench hit the power wire to the battery. You will see the starter pop out and spin. If thats not working then thats your problem. Either that or the teeth on either that or your fly wheel is bitched up.

Good advice Jinx. I just did this to my lawn tractor, lol. (Stupid MTD/Lowe's piece of crap!) It was like the starter didn't have the power to turn it over enough to start. So I took off the starter and jumped it (just like you described) and it worked perfect. So I slapped it back on. It was like it had too much compression and it couldn't turn it over. Eventually, I thought to adjust the valves. When I tore the VC off, I found that the intake valve was so loose, it was opening WAY TOO late. So after adjusting the valves, she started & ran perfect.


I'm gonna check everything out with the starter tomorrow, too. Thanks guys.

 

[SeventyMach1]

Update. Interesting things now. I took the starter off. While pulling it out, one of the torx bit bolts that holds the solenoid onto the starter FELL OUT! So the solenoid wasn't connected properly.


Now for the stupid question of the day (especially since I've had a little training with repairing starters ... just not this type). I jumped the starter while it was out. Is the shaft supposed to just "pop up" and not turn? Or should the shaft turn, too? All I got was the shaft popping up .... it never turned. I don't see how it could start the car if it doesn't turn.


Then again, maybe the flywheel catches it before it extends all the way ... and in turn, the shaft spins. Someone enlighten me please.

 

[SeventyMach1]

Okay, I take back everything I said, lol. I failed to realize that there were TWO power wires on the solenoid (even though I removed both of them ). So I went back and jumped it with power to BOTH of those terminals and a ground, she pops and spins perfect. I guess my starter is good, so that's a load off. The solenoid must have been shorting out somewhere .... since it was just hanging there!

 

[SeventyMach1]

Haha, looks like this is turning into a journal about my car and what's happening.





Well, if it's not one thing, it's another. I bolted the solenoid back up properly and slapped the starter back on (kinda .... wish it were that easy, lol). And now what? It won't start at all! It's dark out now so I'll have to mess with it another day. Goin' outta town so it'll be a few days. I think the "small" power wire has a bad connection. At least I hope thats what it is.

 

[HISSIN50]

Justin, if it does absolutely nothing, that's a good call with the S-terminal wire. You could jump the solenoid and see if it starts (or check for 12 volts to the S-terminal wire while cranking with the clutch pedal in).

Also, make sure you have decent ground for the starter (a jumper cable attached to the starter body and chassis makes a quick and dirty ground test).

Good luck.

 

[MysteryMachine]

I feel smart now something I said helped YAY. Like you and Jt said double check the wires somethings gotta be shady somewhere there

 

[SeventyMach1]

Also, make sure you have decent ground for the starter (a jumper cable attached to the starter body and chassis makes a quick and dirty ground test).

That's what I don't get. The starter is grounded automatically when it's bolted up. Right?

You could jump the solenoid and see if it starts (or check for 12 volts to the S-terminal wire while cranking with the clutch pedal in).

Haha, I don't think I have the room to do all that. I'm working UNDER the car because my headers don't allow my fat fingers down in there. From under the car, the solenoid is on top, so the starter has to be removed to even get near the wires.

 

[MysteryMachine]

not sure on Stangs but I think the Yota it had its own ground wire

 

[SeventyMach1]

not sure on Stangs but I think the Yota it had its own ground wire

There's only 2 wires. Both are power wires that connect to the solenoid .... and the body of the starter is grounded by mounting it (I think).

 

[HISSIN50]

Justin, if the motor ground starts to take a poo poo, the car might not crank (as you know, the starter is the largest draw on the electrical system, so other systems can work but it doesnt).

Power flows from Ground to positive - a power plant wont start a car with a bad ground.

That said, I really doubt this is an issue with all the testing you've done. But it's such an easy test............ You can even run a jumper cable from the motor to the chassis.

I chose to add a 4 AWG ground cable from the pass motor mount (on the motor side of the mount) to the frame rail. There's one on the driver side that follows a similar path (for mimicing). That way when my stock ground starts to crap out, I might be ok.

Good luck buddy!

 

[SeventyMach1]

I chose to add a 4 AWG ground cable from the pass motor mount (on the motor side of the mount) to the frame rail. There's one on the driver side that follows a similar path (for mimicing). That way when my stock ground starts to crap out, I might be ok.

That's a good idea. I have a pile of 4 AWG that I ripped out of the old HMMWV. I'll make me another ground when I get started on it again.

Oh, and I'm definitely gonna do the test with jumper cables first. Thanks man.

 

[SeventyMach1]

Okay ... I still need some help here guys. Throw some ideas my way. The starter problem is no longer. After fixing the solenoid .... and then plugging up the S wire bang: ), she starts perfectly every time.


I still have the draw, though. It runs my battery dead over night if I leave it connected. I have no idea where to look from here. BTW, the only things that have been done to the car since the problem started are 1.) I installed a different head unit .... & 2.) I installed some gauges. The problem was there before I installed the gauges, though. I'm pretty sure the stereo was hooked up the same way as the old one, too. Could it even be the stereo? Wouldn't pulling that fuse tell me for sure or not?

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Where can I find this draw finder? My car drains the battery in 1-2 nights and I cant find the problem either. I know what circuit its on, but I dont know where to go from there. Also, my ECU is getting bad ECT temp readings. My gauge in my dash will read normal but my ECU gets readings of 250+*.

 

[HISSIN50]

Where can I find this draw finder? My car drains the battery in 1-2 nights and I cant find the problem either. I know what circuit its on, but I dont know where to go from there. Also, my ECU is getting bad ECT temp readings. My gauge in my dash will read normal but my ECU gets readings of 250+*.

Since you know which circuit is at fault, start disconnecting components on this circuit until the draw goes way down.

The ECT uses a thermistor - you can ohm it out and check it for calibration. Or just replace it if your wiring is sound.

Good luck.

 

[SeventyMach1]

TTT

 

[HISSIN50]

Justin, I saw your last reply (and couldnt think of anything to add) but will bump ya again. I really dont have any more ideas. You could double check the stereo wiring (not so much the stereo wiring, but associated wiring in the vacinity). When you pulled the radio fuse, if that was the source of the draw, the reading should have gone down (I agree with your thoughts).

Hey, I've seen Shane poking his head around in here - maybe his wise-self might have some tidbits (he's a wiring whiz).

You havent messed with the power distribution block at all recently, huh?

Bump.

 

[HGFireHazard]

After everything that has been suggested thus far, I would take out the Head Unit. Don't bother with the fuses, just pull it out and unhook the wires and see what happens then. I had a stereo in my old car with a battery capacitor (I'm not sure if you have just a HU or aftermarket speakers with amps etc) but a cap if installed improperly can drain the battery as described. In any case you may as well just try and unhook the HU and if you do have more of a system (especially the cap) unhook it as well. We all know that sometimes these electrical gremlins are caused by some really weird things. Good luck and keep us informed.

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Bump?

 

[SeventyMach1]

Thanks Keven.


I still haven't found the problem. I took the stereo out ... amp & everything. Still has a draw. And JT, no, I haven't tinkered with the power distribution block at all.

As Keven said, where can we get the draw finder? Parts stores look at me like I'm stupid when I tell them that I want a short detector & not a DVM or test light, lol. Good luck to you, too Keven. BTW, where exactly did you find that your draw was (so far)?

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Found it tonight. We were unplugging different things and on accident we unplugged one of the wires for my alarm. I dont know what the wire was for, it hooks to a harness near my drivers side door under the kick panel. I think it has something to do with my remote start. Tomorrow I am going to look more into it to see if the alarm is bad or if its a bad install. Did you pull fuses on your fuse box to see when the draw goes away?