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Need help on properly installing SFI Balancer

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kdubslugga
  • Start date Start date Mar 7, 2008

Kdubslugga

Active Member
Jun 7, 2003
1,515
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38
Akron, OH
Mar 7, 2008
#1
  • Mar 7, 2008
  • #1
Sup guys, im putting together my 331, and i picked up a Ford Racing SFI approved balancer for it, now ive always just tightened the balancer bolt until i started to turn the crank, is this the proper or OK way to do this?? Also with this balancer there seems to be a bit of a tighter clearance between it and the water pump, about the width of a standard wooden ruler, is this normal with an SFI approved balancer opposed to a stocker? Im assuming everything is OK but I just spent 3k on this thing and i wanna make sure its right the FIRST time!!!
 
3

347HO

Member
Jan 13, 2008
462
2
16
Seattle
Mar 7, 2008
#2
  • Mar 7, 2008
  • #2
There is a tool for that... damper (harmonic balancer) installer.
It has a bolt which screws into your crank first
then you slide on the the balancer and the collar
mine came with a torrington roller bearing washer and a nut
screw the nut in which pushes on the bearing and collar and installs the balancer onto the crank.

I like to ensure my "key" is aligned before tightening the balancer on.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Mar 7, 2008
#3
  • Mar 7, 2008
  • #3
What brand balancer did you buy, Romac? It's not uncommon for those to be extremely tight. Someone over in 94-95 actually had the balancer honed out slightly, so it would go on easier, but still be a tight fit. There's no reason for it to be so tight that people need to toss them in the oven to get them on, IMO.
 
3

347HO

Member
Jan 13, 2008
462
2
16
Seattle
Mar 7, 2008
#4
  • Mar 7, 2008
  • #4
Most dampers will be destroyed by high to extreme heat. Putting it in an oven would NOT be the best choice IMO.
Any machine shop would be happy to place it on an endmill or similar and polish it out.
I suggest try cleaning it thoroughly with solvent only in the bore area. Most of the time the smallest of debris will make that tight clearance fit... not fit.
 

Kdubslugga

Active Member
Jun 7, 2003
1,515
3
38
Akron, OH
Mar 8, 2008
#5
  • Mar 8, 2008
  • #5
im talking about a close fit from the bottom of the water pump and at the neck of the water pump its tighter than that of a stock balancer, i guess its ok as long as nothings rubbing or close to rubbing, i just figured it would look the same as the stock balancer. It fit of the crank shaft fine
 
3

347HO

Member
Jan 13, 2008
462
2
16
Seattle
Mar 8, 2008
#6
  • Mar 8, 2008
  • #6
Kdubslugga said:
im talking about a close fit from the bottom of the water pump and at the neck of the water pump its tighter than that of a stock balancer, i guess its ok as long as nothings rubbing or close to rubbing, i just figured it would look the same as the stock balancer. It fit of the crank shaft fine
Click to expand...

That issue I have no experience. I don't use OE waterpumps, so I don't have an answer.
However, the method of installing your damper might have a problem if the damper is not fully installed on the snout. It's possible damper to snout friction overcame the friction of your rotating assembly before fully seating.
 

Kdubslugga

Active Member
Jun 7, 2003
1,515
3
38
Akron, OH
Mar 9, 2008
#7
  • Mar 9, 2008
  • #7
Well im obviously doing something wrong here, Ive never had an issue with the balancer before. This is a Ford Racing SFI approved balancer, ive always just used the stock one, tightened it until it started to turn the motor over and everything was fine.. I do that now and the pulleys arent even close to ligning up, its on way to far. So am i ok to just tighten until the pulleys line up??
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
99
PA
Mar 9, 2008
#8
  • Mar 9, 2008
  • #8
The balancer needs to be torqued to spec, 90-95ftlbs...you just got lucky in the past, very lucky. I hone nearly ever balancer I use, due the variances in the stroker cranks and balancers they are all way tight. 347 is correct a installation tool is the proper way to install the balancer or you risk pulling the threads out of the crank.

It is also important to prefit the key to the balancer and timing chain sproket to make sure you have the correct clearance and engagment.

FWIW... The Ford balancers require a spacer to put the pulley in the correct position one reason I do not use them.

M-8510-A351 .350"
M-8510-C351 .875"
M-8510-B351 .950"
 

Kdubslugga

Active Member
Jun 7, 2003
1,515
3
38
Akron, OH
Mar 9, 2008
#9
  • Mar 9, 2008
  • #9
Nice, glad the instructions tell me that!! &*#$%n douche bags
 

Kdubslugga

Active Member
Jun 7, 2003
1,515
3
38
Akron, OH
Mar 9, 2008
#10
  • Mar 9, 2008
  • #10
Thanks rick91 thats the answer i need, i just looked at summits website and the only 2 that will fit my balancer is the .875 or the .950 which one whould you guess i need??? Also does this spacer go infront or behind the balancer????
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
99
PA
Mar 9, 2008
#11
  • Mar 9, 2008
  • #11
It will go between the balancer and pulley...

You'll have to mesure to be sure, although their tech line may tell you which one is recommend. I had to mill a few that came through my shop to get proper alignment
 

Maryland Stang

Active Member
Aug 21, 2002
1,656
30
39
Greenville, NC
Mar 10, 2008
#12
  • Mar 10, 2008
  • #12
Just an FYI, my Summit balancer said to put the balancer into an oven at 200 degrees for 30 minutes before installation in the instructions.

I agree with everybody above. It's not unusual to have to clearence the inside of the balancer to get it to fit.
 
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