Need help with Charcoal Canister please.

Okay, after searching on here and reading everything about the charcoal canister, most people say they just remove it, and cap the incoming vacuum line to the upper intake.

I did the same thing, I capped the vacuum port that goes to the charcoal canister on my cobra upper. I removed the canister, and I left the fuel line open so it vents to the atmosphere.

Now it idles fine (minus another small problem I need to fix) but when I accelerate hard, or reach a higher rpm at speed, the car bucks and stutters.

My theory is that the car expects that extra air from the charcoal canister at higher rpms, which causes the computer to send a signal to that valve that is in between the canister and the intake, that opens the valve and lets a draw through.

Is this theory correct, and if so, how do I fix my issue while keeping the charcoal canister off. Do I just re-add the check valve and solenoid yet let the hose draw from open air, and keep the fuel line sit open.

In summary:

What is the proper way to remove that canister and deal with both the vacuum line and fuel line.

**NOTE** There are no emissions on the eastern shore of MD, so that is not a concern.

bump

The bucking only started when I capped that vacuum line, which is why it has to be related to the change. Unfortunatly leaving the line open at idle causes the engine to vibrate and buck like a mofo, so much so that I didn't drive it with the open vacuum and capped it.

Also, mine wasn't purged at startup, I did some tests on the vacuum with the purge solenoid attached, and on startup, the hose at the canister experienced no vacuum draw, unfortuantly I can't hold my finger over it while driving to see if it opens up at speed.

I'm fairly certain it only is this line, mostly because the bucking when this is capped only comes into play over 2500 RPM.

Here is something else I just considered. Could my fuel pump be on the way out, and since the old charcoal canister was clogged anyways (never getting vacuum) it presurized the tank, causing the pump to not have to work as hard? Now that it is an open system, the weakness in the pump is showing up and causing a lean condition??

Its a stretch, but I know for a fact I don't have any other vacuum leaks, and there is zippy chance I messed up anything sans the charcoal canister. Mostly because where it plugs into the upper, pulling it off really doesn't hit anything, so no accidental bumping and such, plus both the a/c and s/c parts on the tree are capped snugly.

I also am certain the cap is on well because an open vacuum at idle there causes a visible rough idle, whereas once it was capped, the idle was fine. It only got rough again under heavy accel, or breaking about 2500 rpm. Which was never a condition before. I will put a filter on that open line though, to keep debris out of the fuel and preserve my fuel pump. Thanks for that suggestion.

Judging from everyones posts, it seems like everyone who has removed the canister capped that line to the upper intake and had no problems.

Hmmm, that may be it, its making a different whine now then it use too. Anyway to easily diagnose a crap fuel pump?? I think Ill re-hook the purge solenoid just to test its opening and closing.