Need new steering rack

[savegoodautonfg]

A-1 CARDONE Part # 22207 More Info {[Rack & Pinion] Complete Unit; Reman.}
Power Steering; w/Performance Suspension

My dad is the manager at an auto parts store and he can get me this one for $47.00

what do you think?

I have a 1990 Mustang GT 5.0.

I need the performance suspension one right?

Also im not sure if it comes with 1 or 2 piece bushings nor do i know which ones I would need?
Will these work with this Steering Rack?
I bought Energy Suspension Urethane Bushings PArt #- 10103G
Link is here: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ENS-4-10103G&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Stock steering rack is on there now.

Also i would really appreciate it if someone has a write-up or a link to how to remove and replace the steering rack. pictures would be even better!! Pictures would really help me since im new at all this

 

[joncash]

Yeah, all the 5.0's for that year got the upgraded suspension. That's the one you need. The E.S. bushings wil be the same for both racks.

 

[savegoodautonfg]

oK THANKS MAN, now all i need is a write-up on how to do it.

thanks for answering those questions.

I think i can remove old and install new one but i just gotta see how exactly to do it.

 

[savegoodautonfg]

bump

 

[RYC CUKR]

Its not too hard to replace it.

It has been a while so this might not be a complete list of what needs to be done.

1. Break loose the outer tie rods from the steering knuckles
2. Unbolt the rack from the K member
3. Where the steering shaft attaches to the rack there is a clamp with a bolt in it that you need to loosen. This clamp squeezes down and makes sure that the shaft does not slide off the splined connector sticking out off the steering rack. When you look at your new rack you can see the "connector" I am talking about. Its pretty tight squeeze in there. This was the worst part for me. Then slide the rack off the shaft. Might want to kit it with some PB blaster or something cause they tend to stick after many years. Mine was stuck and took some PB blaster and persuation to get it off the car. But before you remove it go to step 4
4. Disconnect the PS pump lines from the rack
5. Disconnect rack from steering shaft and remove from car.
6. Transfer the outer tie rods to the new rack.

Installation is pretty much the reverse of the above. I would get a haynes or chilton's manual if I were you. It has all the torque specs and such. After the new rack is in, top off the PS fluid, take it down and have it aligned and your good go.

 

[savegoodautonfg]

Thanks alot, RYC

The only thing is im a really hardcore newb at working on mustangs and i need pictures.. anyone have picstures?

thanks for ur help tho.. always appreciated.

 

[Shakerhood]

There should be a pretty good write up with Pics in your Service Manual.

 

[savegoodautonfg]

in my service manual?
what service manual shakerhood?

 

[jrichker]

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

In my 7+ yrs of being on S-net I can't remember anyone having this many problems before .

What else could possibly go wrong?

 

[Shakerhood]

in my service manual?
what service manual shakerhood?

Yes, the Service Manual for your car.

 

[savegoodautonfg]

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

I took the 2 bolts that hold it together off. That other peice with the 1 bolt in it, I can't get it off the old steering rack. how do i get it off?

 

[savegoodautonfg]

BUMP PLEASE. i need to know today bc tommorow is the only day i can do it.


thanks, nick

 

[jrichker]

Remove the bolt that clamps the joint to the shaft. Then use a screwdriver to spread the clamp section apart.

 

[savegoodautonfg]

There is one bolt that i see right now. That bolt, i've used every socket to try to remove it and nothing is the right size. 12mm is the closest i got but it wont budge.

here is the bolt i'm talking about..

http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/1174/picsforstangnetwc2.jpg

 

[jrichker]

That is the correct bolt. It may be US size and not metric. I have replaced two rack assemblies and always done it that way.

 

[savegoodautonfg]

anyone know what size because i've tried every socket...

 

[sunil6784]

Get some PB blaster on it. Is the 12 mm 12 pt. slipping ?

 

[jrichker]

Looks like the bolt is a US size 7/16" twelve point head. You will need a professional quality socket like Snap-On, MAC, MATCO or Proto. Other sockets may fit too loosely and round off the corners.

The reason I say US size is that it has a star pattern on the head to indicate a high strength bolt. Metric bolts are usually marked with a xx.xx number to indicate bolt strength.

See http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx for more information on bolt head markings, or http://www.google.com/search?q=bolt+head+markings&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&start=0&sa=N if you have nothing to do with your morning but get educated.

 

[savegoodautonfg]

I'll give it a go.