Need some opinions?

scupking

Active Member
Sep 18, 2005
1,186
1
36
Enfield, CT
I love my car and it is paid off. I have a list of things I want to do but don’t know if it would be better to trade my car in or keep it. I have an automatic and would like a manual. I also would be getting the HPS Hardballer intake, LT headers, MM full length sub frames, stage one cams and dyno tune. I probably would be around 280 rwhp when all said and done. The cost would probably be around $5,000 for all that including putting in a manual transmission. The other thing I could do is trade my car in for a used manual S197, get a tune, 4.10 gears and have a 300rwhp car.
 
From the price you would get on your car as a trade in, and if you found a decent-mile 05+ I almost garantee you that you would owe more than 5k on the new car.

I say keep yours, do the mods you want, do the 5 speed swap.

You allready have alot of time and work into the car, its really clean, keep it!!!


And while you might get 300rwhp out of an 05+ with just a few mods, they are a little bit heavier (not by much), but it all adds up.
 
How much do you think a five speed swap would be?

Depends on if you are good at bargain hunting and if you do any of the work yourself.

I honestly don't have any kind of figure to throw out... it could be reasonable to rediculous, lol.

If you are gonna swap to a manual... do a T-56 swap...:hail2:

Maybe thats a little too much, lol.
 
Depends on if you are good at bargain hunting and if you do any of the work yourself.

I honestly don't have any kind of figure to throw out... it could be reasonable to rediculous, lol.

If you are gonna swap to a manual... do a T-56 swap...:hail2:

Maybe thats a little too much, lol.

I was looking around and seems like people are talking close to 5000 just for a tranny and swap. If that's the case maybe I will just keep the auto. I still have a tranny cooler to put in and also the B&M Hammer shifter sitting in the garage.
 
Man... that sounds like the very high end of the scale. I really feel you could do a T-56 swap for even less than that.

You can find used transmissions for a few hundred bucks, go to the boneyard and strip the other essentials, or even hit E-bay for those.

Labor would probaly be the highest costs of it if you didn't want to do the swap yourself.
 
why dont you look for a used cobra instead of an s197 ?

memmer, 4v's...power is unbelievable.

Yeah a cobra would be sick. There is an 03 LaserRed cobra with 45,000k going for $18,500 all stock. The color is perfect, I wish I could buy it now but If I did sell my car or trade it, it wouldn't be till next year. I could also go for a 01 cobra I see them going for around $15k.
 
Unless you get a 05+ or 03/04 cobra selling your car would be a waste. It'd be a waste either way - but at least you'd end up with a better end result, even if that does put you in payments i guess:shrug:
I've been looking at this thread and didn't want to say anything because I'm bias, but $5k just so you can press the clutch to change gears and therefore make the car feel faster? Auto may get boring, but a modded or built auto > T45 and TR-3560. Heck built auto > T-56, built T-45, built-3650. When you build a manual you can't decide how firm the shifts are, how long the shifts take, how high the rpms flash before take off, when the car will shift (consistently), you can't change out a part like the torque converter and shave 11lbs off the rotating weight - you still push on the levers i guess like Henry Ford intended back in 1903. Of course IMO a Viper spec T-56>built auto, but there's still 03/04 cobra owners trading up their regular t-56's for 4R's.
There's certainly a argument for drivng a stick shift too - it's different from driving an auto - and i get that fix for a month just driving my brother's car or anyone else's for more than 15 miles. Then I'm happy to be getting into mine. I'm sure it's a prefrence thing - but the grass is always greener.
 
Unless you get a 05+ or 03/04 cobra selling your car would be a waste. It'd be a waste either way - but at least you'd end up with a better end result, even if that does put you in payments i guess:shrug:
I've been looking at this thread and didn't want to say anything because I'm bias, but $5k just so you can press the clutch to change gears and therefore make the car feel faster? Auto may get boring, but a modded or built auto > T45 and TR-3560. Heck built auto > T-56, built T-45, built-3650. When you build a manual you can't decide how firm the shifts are, how long the shifts take, how high the rpms flash before take off, when the car will shift (consistently), you can't change out a part like the torque converter and shave 11lbs off the rotating weight - you still push on the levers i guess like Henry Ford intended back in 1903. Of course IMO a Viper spec T-56>built auto, but there's still 03/04 cobra owners trading up their regular t-56's for 4R's.
There's certainly a argument for drivng a stick shift too - it's different from driving an auto - and i get that fix for a month just driving my brother's car or anyone else's for more than 15 miles. Then I'm happy to be getting into mine. I'm sure it's a prefrence thing - but the grass is always greener.


Good debate right here...:nice:


The firmness of the shifts are 100% controlled by how the car is driven, or what type of clutch you are running in a 5 speed.

Launch RPM is 100% controlled by the driver, plus with a manual you can step it up and run a 2 step.

Again, driver chooses when he/she wants to shift. Of course, shifts can be missed, but a non-built auto can hunt for shifts aswell, which isnt good.

You can invest in a lightweight flywheel and/or DS and save more than 10lbs of rotational weight.


That being said, I have nothing against auto's. What it really comes down to is bias and exactly what you want from the car.

I will be the first to say, if it is a drag car, and you want consistancy... you want an auto.

If its a road course car, or an autocross car, you will want a manual. More control of the power band, and that kind of use will fry an auto even with a trans cooler.

If its a DD, its a tossup. Just depends on if you want to row the gears everyday, if you have to deal with stop and go traffic... so on.


Myself, I will never own an automatic Mustang unless I literally cannot drive a 5 speed car for whatever reason. To me, it takes the joy out of driving, even if its built/stalled. I have NOTHING against an automatic 'Stang, stock or built tranny... I have ridden in some and been VERY impressed, but it just isn't for me.

Many people feel the opposite, and would LOVE to have an auto over a manual and the extra effort it takes to drive one.
 
Good debate right here...:nice:


The firmness of the shifts are 100% controlled by how the car is driven, or what type of clutch you are running in a 5 speed. So in part firmness requires the installation of a $300+ part and correct use by the operator?

Launch RPM is 100% controlled by the driver, plus with a manual you can step it up and run a 2 step. Launching and flash stalling are two very different things. Take a regular 4R and someone can powerbrake it to any rpm he wants and let go like a person in a manual (without bogging mind you), a person with a high stall can tailor his TC to where he wants his stall and it will flash regardless of whether he's stopped or not - mind you multiplying torque in the process

Again, driver chooses when he/she wants to shift. Of course, shifts can be missed, but a non-built auto can hunt for shifts aswell, which isnt good. I wasn't comparing a stock 4R in my examples. And a trans "searching" for shifts is one that's abused or faulty and going out. Look at YELLOW's 11 second consistant 1/4's on a stock 4R.

You can invest in a lightweight flywheel and/or DS and save more than 10lbs of rotational weight. You can do the same things on an auto car plus the TC weight savings - changing those things aren't really an argument for a transmission.


That being said, I have nothing against auto's. What it really comes down to is bias and exactly what you want from the car.

I will be the first to say, if it is a drag car, and you want consistancy... you want an auto.

If its a road course car, or an autocross car, you will want a manual. More control of the power band, and that kind of use will fry an auto even with a trans cooler. Agreed that i would want a manual on a road course - I don't think i'll agree that it will fry an auto. Auto's DO get hotter - but a substantial cooler or a race cooler which has a fan will be sunstantial - along with having a manual valve-body meaning you can select gears just as much. And with a 5R55 you have just as many to chose from.

If its a DD, its a tossup. Just depends on if you want to row the gears everyday, if you have to deal with stop and go traffic... so on. Agreed


Myself, I will never own an automatic Mustang unless I literally cannot drive a 5 speed car for whatever reason. To me, it takes the joy out of driving, even if its built/stalled. I have NOTHING against an automatic 'Stang, stock or built tranny... I have ridden in some and been VERY impressed, but it just isn't for me.

Many people feel the opposite, and would LOVE to have an auto over a manual and the extra effort it takes to drive one. I think i'd rather have cars with both than just one over the other. But if i had just one DD (like i do now) i prefer an auto, and a built one helps too.
Cheers:nice:
 
www.bieberfever.com has a AODE to T-45 swap with clutch for $1850, seen it in this months mustangs and fast fords. It is a used tranny, but alot cheaper than predicted. Not sure if everything is supplied, it would be worth checking into if serious. Also I would keep your car because like you said its paid off, no sense in getting another car payment. Just my 2 cents.
 
Is it going to be strictly a race car, a DD or combination of both?
What kind of actual budget do you have to work with?
Do you care about emissions or fuel economy?

My car is going to be a semi DD and I still want 20+mpg on the highway. The car will have to pass emissions so the MRT catted H will stay on. I my through in stage one or blower cams come spring.