new brake lines dual master cylinder
- Thread starter gpp
- Start date
chris66dad
Member
get a straight brake line section at a local auto parts store for about 4 dollars each and bend them to the shape of the old ones. Start at the proportioning valve and work out to the wheels. A tubing bender can be "borrowed" at Autozone for making bends or bend them around a spray paint can.
Here are pictures of mine. Front Disk Brakes
Here are pictures of mine. Front Disk Brakes
tcrote5516
New Member
- Jan 7, 2010
- 56
- 0
- 0
To be honest, I use different sized aerosol cans with better sucess then any tube bender I've bought and I've bought a few.
You can make cleaner bends around a can with a 5" section of tubing to sleeve over the end for tight bends near the end of the tubing where you dont have much leverage.
I just did the same thing last week for my 67 that I converted to disc. A 25 foot section of tubing runs about $15 at autozone. Take your time and you can make a much cleaner and simpler brake line setup. I was able to do each side with 1 run, no couplings or fittings.
You can make cleaner bends around a can with a 5" section of tubing to sleeve over the end for tight bends near the end of the tubing where you dont have much leverage.
I just did the same thing last week for my 67 that I converted to disc. A 25 foot section of tubing runs about $15 at autozone. Take your time and you can make a much cleaner and simpler brake line setup. I was able to do each side with 1 run, no couplings or fittings.
Federico Garza
Member
- Jun 12, 2009
- 37
- 1
- 9
+2 on the harbor freight bender, and parts store lines, I spent no more than $10 doing my whole front lines MC to distribution block to calipers, and they came out very nice.
BarnStang
Founding Member
What type of front disc kit did you get?
You can order prebent lines easist for the K-H original disc brake kit and they should fit at the wheels well-I think you will need to relocate the brackets which is not a huge deal to do. You can order prebent for drums and the left and right front lines to the hose brackets should fit ok-just need to make sure the geometry of the hose works ok mounted to the stock bracket location-oterwise you may need to relocate the brackets and hand bend all the front lines as previously described. THe bigger problem is the distributin block and MC. THere is not much in the way of getting around some fabrication here. Some of the kits include a distribution block with the residual valve built in for the back brakes which will save you some small amount of work but you still need to hand bend the rear MC line either way.
I've had good luck using the stock 66 4 port dist block, plug one hole, the two front brake lines fit up to the stock dist block perfectly. Need to fab a line from the MC to the stock dist block-front is done. THe rear line is harder. THis is way easier with the motor out. You need to fab a line from the MC to the adj proportoning valve, from the proportioning valve to the residual valve (10 lb red), and from the residual valve to the rear brake(s) line. "Usually" you can screw the residual valve drectly into the port on the proportioning valve. Fab a bracket and mount it and bend up the lines to meet it. I usually make a little bracket and mount it to one bolt on the MC. Just enough to keep vibrations to a minimum.
Hope that helps a little
Oh, make sure you know what front to rear line you are ordering. Check the bracket where the rear hose mounts in the back. THere are two places this bracket can be mounted-single exh the bktis closer to the center of the car on the floor pan, on dual exh cars it is closer to the left rear whee on the floor pan. If its inboard and you will be running dual exh, you will need to move this bracket over and order the dual exh front to rear brake line and it will "mostly" drop right into place. If you try to run the single exh line the flex hose will cut right across the left side dual exh pipe which is not perfered. THere should be some pictures somewhere on the site if you search around.
You can order prebent lines easist for the K-H original disc brake kit and they should fit at the wheels well-I think you will need to relocate the brackets which is not a huge deal to do. You can order prebent for drums and the left and right front lines to the hose brackets should fit ok-just need to make sure the geometry of the hose works ok mounted to the stock bracket location-oterwise you may need to relocate the brackets and hand bend all the front lines as previously described. THe bigger problem is the distributin block and MC. THere is not much in the way of getting around some fabrication here. Some of the kits include a distribution block with the residual valve built in for the back brakes which will save you some small amount of work but you still need to hand bend the rear MC line either way.
I've had good luck using the stock 66 4 port dist block, plug one hole, the two front brake lines fit up to the stock dist block perfectly. Need to fab a line from the MC to the stock dist block-front is done. THe rear line is harder. THis is way easier with the motor out. You need to fab a line from the MC to the adj proportoning valve, from the proportioning valve to the residual valve (10 lb red), and from the residual valve to the rear brake(s) line. "Usually" you can screw the residual valve drectly into the port on the proportioning valve. Fab a bracket and mount it and bend up the lines to meet it. I usually make a little bracket and mount it to one bolt on the MC. Just enough to keep vibrations to a minimum.
Hope that helps a little
Oh, make sure you know what front to rear line you are ordering. Check the bracket where the rear hose mounts in the back. THere are two places this bracket can be mounted-single exh the bktis closer to the center of the car on the floor pan, on dual exh cars it is closer to the left rear whee on the floor pan. If its inboard and you will be running dual exh, you will need to move this bracket over and order the dual exh front to rear brake line and it will "mostly" drop right into place. If you try to run the single exh line the flex hose will cut right across the left side dual exh pipe which is not perfered. THere should be some pictures somewhere on the site if you search around.
The master cylinders I am accustomed to have oversize connectors at the cylinder end, to prevent mixups at assembly. This makes the stock length pieces from the auto store useless. To connect to that, you need the universal master cylinder sets from Mustang suppliers. These come with lines flared at only one end, then you select the oversize nuts you need and slide them onto the tube, cut and double-flare as needed. Done with reasonable care, the results look like factory.
This is all good solid advise, well worth absorbing, applying.
It kinda boils down to "Hot Rodding".
If these is no Factory Part, but a need, then we HoT Rod it.
We did in the 60's, 70's and still today.
Takes a bit of creativity, a need, and SOME mechanical ability, If mechanically challenged, your SOL.
Dan @
ChockoStang
It kinda boils down to "Hot Rodding".
If these is no Factory Part, but a need, then we HoT Rod it.
We did in the 60's, 70's and still today.
Takes a bit of creativity, a need, and SOME mechanical ability, If mechanically challenged, your SOL.
Dan @
ChockoStang
