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  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

new car, new problems!

  • Thread starter Thread starter mistab
  • Start date Start date Jul 18, 2010
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mistab

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Jun 28, 2010
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Jul 23, 2010
#21
  • Jul 23, 2010
  • #21
I have basically ruled out the EGR for sure, limited it to TAD solenoid and EVR solenoid, but possibly EGR position sensor?
 
M

mistab

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Jul 26, 2010
#22
  • Jul 26, 2010
  • #22
does that make sense that the TAD solenoid is dead? Doesn't seem too common. and same with EVR solenoid.
 

jrichker

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Jul 26, 2010
#23
  • Jul 26, 2010
  • #23
Go back and re-read the long post. It has all the information you need to have to diagnose & fix the problems. Print it off and work one problem at a time. Once you have the first problem resolved, then go to the next one. That will help reduce the number of things buzzing around in your head and make it easier to fix things.
 
M

mistab

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Jul 29, 2010
#24
  • Jul 29, 2010
  • #24
Okay, when I was testing the TAD solenoid valve, without even grounding the lghtgreen wire, air was already flowing out of the diverter valve that connects to the cats. what would explain this, grounding the wire didn't switch the airflow or anything it just stayed flowing out. Also you say if there is vaccum at the EGR valve at idle then the EVR is suspect, well there is vaccum coming form that line at idle.
 
M

mistab

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Jul 31, 2010
#25
  • Jul 31, 2010
  • #25
Is it possible for the TAD to be stuck open allowing air to constantly flow out of the diverter valve? And aside from vaccum at the EGR from EVR at idle, what is a way I can test to see if the EVR is bad?
 
M

mistab

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Aug 2, 2010
#26
  • Aug 2, 2010
  • #26
UPDATE!
replaced TAD solenoid and EVR solenoid, no more code 81. Still getting code 34 on KOEO, I replaced all vacuum lines, and there are no leaks. With KOER I get code 34 also so EGR valve might be bad, I did replaced the EGR position sensor with one from junkyard but it might not be good so I am going to get a new EGR valve and position sensor tomorrow.
 
M

mistab

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Aug 3, 2010
#27
  • Aug 3, 2010
  • #27
EGR valve from junkyard with EVP sensor, cleaned out EGR valve real good. solved code 34.
 
M

mistab

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Aug 3, 2010
#28
  • Aug 3, 2010
  • #28
thanks for the help jrichker I appreciate it, keep doing what your doing cause your doing it right.
 
M

mistab

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Aug 5, 2010
#29
  • Aug 5, 2010
  • #29
Ok after running KOER I am pulling codes 94 & 44. I was wondering if a crossover pipe from diverter to cats that has been cut and pinched shut would cause this. The pipe goes into passenger side cat but where on the h pipe where it goes over to the drivers side it is cut off. Would that cause this
 

jrichker

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#30
  • Aug 5, 2010
  • #30
Codes 44 & 94 - AIR system inoperative - Air Injection. Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks.

Revised 28-Oct-2009 to correct code definitions and operation.

Code 44 RH side air not functioning.
Code 94 LH side air not functioning.

The computer uses the change in the O2 sensor readings to detect operation of the Thermactor control valves. When the dump valve opens, it reduces the O2 readings in the exhaust system. Then it closes the dump valve and the O2 readings increase. By toggling the dump valve (TAB), the computer tests for the 44/94 codes.

Failure mode is usually due to a clogged air crossover tube, where one or both sides of the tube clog with carbon. The air crossover tube mounts on the back of the cylinder heads and supplies air to each of the Thermactor air passages cast into the cylinder heads. When the heads do not get the proper air delivery, they set codes 44 & 94, depending on which passage is clogged. It is possible to get both 44 & 94, which would suggest that the air pump or control valves are not working correctly, or the crossover tube is full of carbon or missing.

Testing the system:
Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect
the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump
the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve.

The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or
to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the
vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes
from one hose to the next.

The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheel well turn the
vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire.
Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to
the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground
necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side
will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.


The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the
vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel &
the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum
to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin
32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Starting the engine
with the computer jumpered to self test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after
doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to
ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the
solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38
and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin
38 & Solenoid valve #1.

If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the
solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation. Power &
ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.

Typical resistance of the solenoid valves is in the range of 20-70 Ohms.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

See http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50636&d=1180923382 for a very nice drawing of the Thermactor Air System (smog pump) plumbing

If you have a catalytic converter H pipe, you need to fix these codes. If you don't, then don't worry about them
 
M

mistab

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Jun 28, 2010
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Aug 6, 2010
#31
  • Aug 6, 2010
  • #31
I am assuming its the crossover pipe to cylinder heads I will have to get it out of there for inspection and cleaning. Does it thread in, or does it go into a rubber grommet? I haven't looked at that pipe or anything yet
 
B

BYRDPE

Founding Member
Nov 4, 1998
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Memphis,Tn.
Aug 6, 2010
#32
  • Aug 6, 2010
  • #32
mistab said:
I am assuming its the crossover pipe to cylinder heads I will have to get it out of there for inspection and cleaning. Does it thread in, or does it go into a rubber grommet? I haven't looked at that pipe or anything yet
Click to expand...

if i recall the pipe is bolted on with one bolt in each head.
 
M

mistab

New Member
Jun 28, 2010
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Aug 6, 2010
#33
  • Aug 6, 2010
  • #33
Yeah, I saw the one bolt on each side. It is a tight fit with hardly any room back there. Going to be a pain but I am going to try and get it out tomorrow and get it cleaned up. It has to be this pipe throwing codes 44 and 94 though because I just replaced both TAD and TAB solenoids.
 
M

mistab

New Member
Jun 28, 2010
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Aug 8, 2010
#34
  • Aug 8, 2010
  • #34
took the thermactor pipe off, oh wow was that thing clogged up completely, Now I know exactly why it was throwing both codes 44 and 94. It is a trick trying to get it back in there with all the hoses and lines and little room to work with. It was too hot outside so I will bolt it back on tomorrow and see how it does.
 
M

mistab

New Member
Jun 28, 2010
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Aug 10, 2010
#35
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #35
bolted the thermactor pipe back on, no leaks. I am still getting codes 94 & 44. The pipe is completely cleaned out and I tried to clean inside the passage on the cylinder heads, but with the engine in and little room to work with I guess I didn't completely unclog it? So I am not sure what to do.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Aug 10, 2010
#36
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #36
Did you clear the codes after you cleaned/repaired things?
 
M

mistab

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Jun 28, 2010
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Aug 10, 2010
#37
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #37
Clearing codes is just for continuous memory codes I thought? Not for KOER and KOEO.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Aug 10, 2010
#38
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #38
You should be able to start with a clean slate.
 
M

mistab

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Jun 28, 2010
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Aug 11, 2010
#39
  • Aug 11, 2010
  • #39
hmm, I was thinking that too but I have tried and searched for everything. I really am thinking the actual ports on cylinder heads are just still clogged, I tried to get cleaned out but with the engine in it is hard.
 
M

mistab

New Member
Jun 28, 2010
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Aug 13, 2010
#40
  • Aug 13, 2010
  • #40
well took thermactor pipe off again. both ports into heads are completely clogged with carbon, with the engine in it is really hard to try and scrape it out, any ideas on a easy way? So far all I have tried and thought of was a metal coat hanger and it isn't working too well.
 
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