New guy here, had some question I need help with

I have read through this several times and I'm confused. Not sure if this is a "no crank" problem or a "crank with no start" or a combination of both.

It would help me to understand if the verb "crank" is used to describe it when the starter cranks (or attempt to crank) the motor over.

I know that it is possible that when the starter is engaged while the motor is running this will turn the starter into a generator. Because of the large reduction gear on the starter, when driven via the motor this spins the starter very fast and can generate a large and possible damaging voltage. There is supposed to be a one way clutch on the stater to prevent this.

Let say that the starter did turn into a generator and generated a LARGE voltage that has taken out the other electronic devices.

If this were my car I would do a through visual inspection of the wiring harness looking for evidence of burnt wires. What we are trying to find out is WHY the original problem occurred. IE did two wires melt and short together? Which is sometimes the down side of long tube headers. Never the less something made the starter engage in the first place. IMO it seems unlikely to me that a bad alternator "caused" this. It seems more likely to me that the alternator was collateral damage from the original event.

The best recommendation I can give at this point is STOP replacing parts until you KNOW what happened and why. Otherwise it seems likely to me that the new parts will suffer the same fate as the old parts.

1996+ Crank with no start check list
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/336452-1997-mustang-wont-ignite.html

If by chance the car now has a "no crank" problem this will need different trouble shooting. But if this were my car I would start by confirming +12 volts at the starter solenoid with the key in the "crank" position.

CONFIRM there is power in and out of fuse F1.3. Use a known good ground.

CONFIRM that fuse F2.6 has power in and out with the key in the CRANK position. Use a known good ground.

Do you hear the faint click of the battery junction box starter relay when the key is turned to the crank position?

If you can hear the starter relay click try swapping with another.

If the stater relay clicks, fuses are good and still no power at the starter solenoid, then there's a wiring FAULT between the starter and the starter relay.

1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/for...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271