ponycar17
Founding Member
I had a similar problem with my 30s on my NA car after I installed them. The car would run if I stayed in the throttle, but would quickly shut off. It was also doing some weird backfiring when i reved it up... We checked everything, and I finally swapped my C&L calibrated for 30s to my friend's Pro-M that was calibrated for 30s, and voila, the problems went away instantly. Since his car was down for a while, I ran the Pro-M for a while. Suprisingly, after I swapped back to the C&L it ran good again. It was odd, but I guess one meter allowed the car to learn the new setup because it let the car run leaner. If you haven't tried this yet, it might be worthwhile... Rotate the MAF about 90 degrees AWAY from where you think the most incoming air would be in contact with the filament (this will rotate the sensor toward the outer fender on a NA car with a cold air kit). This will lean the car out a little. If it helps, you've found the problem... I've seen as much as a 500 millivolt difference by moving my MAF sensor INTO the airflow (toward the motor on a NA car with a cold air kit), so maybe moving away from the airflow would help in this case?... I watched this with my MAF Tuner software, so I know the readings were consistent...



