New pump Now im pissed.

Black1987Stang · Dec 13, 2005

Test lights are good to see if theres power or not, but they dont tell you if its only getting say 9volts instead of 12 (high resistance, bad connection somewhere) But if ur not getting any light action then obviously theres noo power. I think you would have to keep the pump on to check for power at the tank connection? i forget which side the relay is on power or ground, or just have a friend prime it with the key while ur back at the tank connection looking for 12volts and ground whichever when the relay is energized. and u can check for power at the relay when its energized, make sure its putting out. Have you tried grounding the wire at the code reader hookup which will make the pump turn on. Its the bottom right slot, just use a jumper wire from that to ground and it should kick on.

RsStanG1987 · Dec 13, 2005

So i got a better light and still no power after the relay. So Im guessing they sold me a ****ty relay.

RsStanG1987 · Dec 13, 2005

So I figured my relay was bed went and got another. and the same ****ing thing is happeneing no friggen prime of the fuel pump. Im gonna punch that car right in the face. I already found that i have no power coming from the relay as of earlier today so i replaced it and its the same. Im on wits end right now.

jrichker · Dec 13, 2005

RsStanG1987 said:
So I figured my relay was bed went and got another. and the same ****ing thing is happeneing no friggen prime of the fuel pump. Im gonna punch that car right in the face. I already found that i have no power coming from the relay as of earlier today so i replaced it and its the same. Im on wits end right now.

Go back to the checklist I posted. If you step through it one step at a time, you will find the problem and fix it.

HIssin50's comments about the relay socket are important and should be checked as part of the troubleshooting process. Don't overlook his comments about the ECC relay and making sure it is functional.

RsStanG1987 · Dec 13, 2005

jrichker said:
Go back to the checklist I posted. If you step through it one step at a time, you will find the problem and fix it.

HIssin50's comments about the relay socket are important and should be checked as part of the troubleshooting process. Don't overlook his comments about the ECC relay and making sure it is functional.

i did listen for the eec relay and i hear all the other relays click.
Im also looking at that link you sent me and i really dont understand how to trick the relay into running. Im getting up early and i will continue with the check list. If you have any other tips let me know.

jrichker · Dec 13, 2005

RsStanG1987 said:
i did listen for the eec relay and i hear all the other relays click.
Im also looking at that link you sent me and i really dont understand how to trick the relay into running. Im getting up early and i will continue with the check list. If you have any other tips let me know.

The fuel pump relay uses the computer to provide a ground on the Tan/Lt Green wire. That same Tan/Lt Green wire goes to the self test connector for the computer. Ground the Tan/Lt Green on the computer self test connector and the fuel pump will run if the relay & power circuits are OK.

RsStanG1987 · Dec 13, 2005

Well Ill check it out tommorrow hopefully i can get this pig started before the holiday.

HISSIN50 · Dec 13, 2005

As JRichker said, you can also determine if the ground pulse from the puter to the FP relay is bad when you test the socket.

Good luck with it - JR will get ya up and running again!

RsStanG1987 · Dec 13, 2005

OK so what im getting now is that if everything is fine and i ground that wire my car should have a working fp? Now if that doesent work where do i go next?
This is what i checked so far.
Power at relay yes
power at pump no
inertia switch is down

New pump and new relay
so tommorrow i will ground that wire and see what happens.
If that doesent work where do i go next?

HISSIN50 · Dec 13, 2005

RsStanG1987 said:
OK so what im getting now is that if everything is fine and i ground that wire my car should have a working fp? Now if that doesent work where do i go next?
This is what i checked so far.
Power at relay yes
power at pump no
inertia switch is down

New pump and new relay
so tommorrow i will ground that wire and see what happens.
If that doesent work where do i go next?

Clarification is in order.

At the FP relay:

With the car off, you should have one wire that has constant 12 volts. All others are dead.

With the key on and in the time period that the pump should prime, you should have 3 wires showing 12 volts and one wire (tan/lt green) showing ground. Once the priming is done, you lose the ground on the tan/lt green wire, as well as 12 volts out to the pump (since the lack of ground opens the pathway between the common and N.O. terminal in the relay).

If you can ascertain when you have what readings, that will help you solve the issue. Simply saying the FP has power is not enough.

Now if the inertia switch is down (does that mean it does not work?), your FP relay wont work (the inertia switch is in series with the 12 volt wire that gets hot on the relay when the key is on).

Good luck.

RsStanG1987 · Dec 13, 2005

Now this may sound like a stupid question... But is there anyway to completely bypass the relays and stuff and get it to work with a switch? I may need to get the car to a garage to geth this figured out.

Black1987Stang · Dec 14, 2005

RsStanG1987 said:
Now this may sound like a stupid question... But is there anyway to completely bypass the relays and stuff and get it to work with a switch? I may need to get the car to a garage to geth this figured out.

Yea there is but i wouldnt recomment it, I quarantee its just a bad connectio or bad fuse or something like that. Check everything Hissin and JR says and you WILL find the problem. Ground that terminal on a good ground and the pump should turn on, obviously dont do it with alot of noise around in case u cant hear the pump prime if it does, also check that spot for 12v. Like Hissin said you will NOT have power coming out of the relay if the key isnt in and turned and you will only have a second or two to look for power coming out once you turn the key to run(this is only if the relay is working right anyways). You never said how this all happened, did it not just start up one day, or did u hit a big bump or something? The same stuff happened to my friends stang and finally found out to be the inertia switch in the back. Check for power at both sides of the inertia switch

RsStanG1987 · Dec 14, 2005

87stangdiddle said:
Yea there is but i wouldnt recomment it, I quarantee its just a bad connectio or bad fuse or something like that. Check everything Hissin and JR says and you WILL find the problem. Ground that terminal on a good ground and the pump should turn on, obviously dont do it with alot of noise around in case u cant hear the pump prime if it does, also check that spot for 12v. Like Hissin said you will NOT have power coming out of the relay if the key isnt in and turned and you will only have a second or two to look for power coming out once you turn the key to run(this is only if the relay is working right anyways). You never said how this all happened, did it not just start up one day, or did u hit a big bump or something? The same stuff happened to my friends stang and finally found out to be the inertia switch in the back. Check for power at both sides of the inertia switch

I tried it with the key on and what not. I also had another thread about when it happened. The car started moved 5 feet and it just died. This car is my daily driver. I really dont have much time for error on it. We arent even supposed to work on cars here where i live. They let me do it out of kindness so im gonna need it moved. But i did just remember something. There is a toggle switch in my trunk under the inertia switch in the rear plastic panel. Im gonna flip that switch up and see what happens.

HISSIN50 · Dec 14, 2005

If worst comes to worst, we can help you temporarily jumper part of a circuit so you can move the car. But we need to know what part of the pathway is corrupted. So we wait for more info from ya.

Dont let it be said that peeps arent trying to help ya (as annoying as we, or I at least, may seem).

Good luck.

HISSIN50 · Dec 14, 2005

FWIW, I just looked at your other thread. Based upon the info in the opening post, I would not have even necessarily thought FP initially.

This was likely covered already, but when you crank the motor over, do you have spark and injector firing? (a bad PIP was in the back of my mind with it catching and dying). Just wanted to make sure you dont get tunnel vision.

Good luck.

RsStanG1987 · Dec 14, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
FWIW, I just looked at your other thread. Based upon the info in the opening post, I would not have even necessarily thought FP initially.

This was likely covered already, but when you crank the motor over, do you have spark and injector firing? (a bad PIP was in the back of my mind with it catching and dying). Just wanted to make sure you dont get tunnel vision.

Good luck.

Nah as soon as i turned they key after it died you could no longer hear the Fuel pump prime.

RsStanG1987 · Dec 14, 2005

Ok so heres what i looked at so far today. there was a sighn of hope but it died. So grounded the wire in the test connector and turned they key into the ON position and it actually primed, but diddnt stay on. Now I went to the trunk to look at that switch and its hooked to the inertia switch. I switched that before i grounded the wire in the test connector. So i cant try much right now because my battery died so im charging my jumper box up and then ill go back at it. Im guess (and crossing my fingers now) That the switch i found has something to do with it. If it does im gonna tear that ****er out.

New pump Now im pissed.

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