I'm taking off my intake,TB, MAF and shorty headers with h pipe if you're interested I will sell cheap but you'd have to cover shipping. You can pm me if you are?Fair enough, do you suggest a cobra/gt40 intake?
Also have been looking into the pp typhoon intake(it's like the edelbrock performer knock off I believe) heard some great reviews but on the other hand maybe a used edlebrock performer or trickflow street burner might be a better buy??
You can run 12's without suspension work, full weight, with the stock motor/intakes. It'll take some gear, exhaust and tires but it can be done. I've done it in the desert with 2600' d/a and I'm no Michael Washington.
With mildly ported E7's (~190cfm), ported stock intakes (TMoss) and a hydro roller cam (stock lifters) full exhaust and 65mmTB I made 292rwhp and /325rwtq. It was not an E-303, it was a custom cam (Buddy Rawls) that drove great and sounded nasty.
I would strongly advise you to stop considering the E-303, it's not the direction to go with factory iron heads (E7's, GT40's, P's, 289hipo's etc.).
Btrain,
Buddy Rawls is pretty active on another popular forum (corral.net), I would start by sending him a private message there.
Other parts, I did use ford/crane 1.6 roller rocker arms but the stock ones would have been fine, stock lifters and, I don't remember on push rods but pretty sure they too were stock. I did use matching valve springs/retainers.
Gears and launching...
Need to consider wheel speed. While spinning tires with 4.10's will be easier than with 3.08's you need to realize that wheel speed with the 4.10's will be much less. When the 3.08's break traction they will want to spin to a higher speed. This makes for less traction and is tougher to recover from. On street tires the 4.10's will also have you feathering the clutch much less to keep rev's up on initial launch. For guys that just mash the gas and hope for the best 2.73's and 3.08's make sense so long as they do not make enough power to spin them hard... but if you are willing to learn the limits and roll the throttle the deeper gears will work better. On the street I can obliterate my 255/50-16 BFG drag radials all through 1st, 2nd and a great deal of 3rd if I want to, or I can leave and just have them scratch/chirp with slight throttle control. At my power level (low) I'm full throttle in about 10 feet out in 1st and only need a split second rolling the throttle from at 75-80% to fully in the rug going into 2nd and 3rd to no spin. At the track with my new combo I'm having a real hard time finding the line between spinning and bogging with my current 410's, I know when I move to 4.56's (for my combo, not saying 4.56's make sense for everyone) things will be much more consistent.
I 100% respect what you have always been able to accomplish with your car. But I also think you fall into the exception to the rule category. Not very many people have done what you stated above. Also I think someone really really needs to know wtf they are doing porting stock heads to get them to flow descently(and still fall short of the better aluminums of today). I know you are posting your experience and it is good info but to me somewhat misleading. No offense.Btrain,
Buddy Rawls is pretty active on another popular forum (corral.net), I would start by sending him a private message there.
Other parts, I did use ford/crane 1.6 roller rocker arms but the stock ones would have been fine, stock lifters and, I don't remember on push rods but pretty sure they too were stock. I did use matching valve springs/retainers.
Gears and launching...
Need to consider wheel speed. While spinning tires with 4.10's will be easier than with 3.08's you need to realize that wheel speed with the 4.10's will be much less. When the 3.08's break traction they will want to spin to a higher speed. This makes for less traction and is tougher to recover from. On street tires the 4.10's will also have you feathering the clutch much less to keep rev's up on initial launch. For guys that just mash the gas and hope for the best 2.73's and 3.08's make sense so long as they do not make enough power to spin them hard... but if you are willing to learn the limits and roll the throttle the deeper gears will work better. On the street I can obliterate my 255/50-16 BFG drag radials all through 1st, 2nd and a great deal of 3rd if I want to, or I can leave and just have them scratch/chirp with slight throttle control. At my power level (low) I'm full throttle in about 10 feet out in 1st and only need a split second rolling the throttle from at 75-80% to fully in the rug going into 2nd and 3rd to no spin. At the track with my new combo I'm having a real hard time finding the line between spinning and bogging with my current 410's, I know when I move to 4.56's (for my combo, not saying 4.56's make sense for everyone) things will be much more consistent.
I 100% respect what you have always been able to accomplish with your car. But I also think you fall into the exception to the rule category. Not very many people have done what you stated above. Also I think someone really really needs to know wtf they are doing porting stock heads to get them to flow descently(and still fall short of the better aluminums of today). I know you are posting your experience and it is good info but to me somewhat misleading. No offense.
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