New trans, same problems

gotchopsticks · Mar 1, 2008

I had a new trans put in after my original one locked up on me, and now this one is doing the same thing. if i am cruising in 2-5th gear around 2000rpm and i let off the throttle i can hear and see the trans move. if i tap the gas @ 2000 rpm in any gear 2-5 the whole car rocks back and forth like there is tons of play in the gears. ford says it is just rollover noise, but i have 56000 on the car, the new trans has ~20,000 miles and we (me and a tech) drove another stang with 128,000 miles on the drivetrain and there was no play whatsoever in the trans. any ideas? oh and when the last trans locked up i was cruising in 4th at 40mph and i heard a bang and it was over from there. no forward movement, if i was in neutral and let the clutch out it would go in reverse. turns out i melted 5th and reverse into one gear lol.

laserstang21 · Mar 2, 2008

wat year is the car and wat tranny do you have? i had a t45 and it would lock up in reverse so i upgraded to a t3650 and i live it. sooo much better than the t45

gotchopsticks · Mar 2, 2008

the car is a 2002, so it has the 3650. i forgot to add that when im pulling into a parking spot with the clutch in and the shifter in neutral position i hear some slapping around from what sounds like to be the trans. the tech said he heard it from the rear end, but to me it sounds like under the shifter. both trans have done this.

Smokeurhonda · Mar 3, 2008

sounds like slop in the rear to me..... If it's affecting almost all the gears it's probably the rear. Do you beat on the car real bad? Keep in mind some rocking and noise is normal. It's just how the cars drive. But if it's really excessive then look into excessive back lash in the ring and pinion or worn carrier. Most likely not the carrier since you don't have that many miles on it.

BennyBlown2v · Mar 3, 2008

Check your ujoints/driveshaft assembly and rebuild the rear end if necessary, sounds like you just got "the clunk".

gotchopsticks · Mar 3, 2008

i'll look into that, but no i dont drive hard at all. i shift at or before 2000rpm, unless im getting on the freeway, then its at 2500rpm. i cruise at 75mph, mostly cuz i am trying to save my gas. im having a crain fart, but where is the carrier berring?

BennyBlown2v · Mar 3, 2008

Carrier bearings go on the top and bottom of that thingy

2002MineralGray · Mar 3, 2008

My car does the same thing when I tap the gas in 1st or second gear while running under 2000 rpms. At first I thought the previous owner beat the car before he traded it in to the dealer. Then I thought it may be the tranny mounts. But I started messing with it and I noticed if I stab the gas and take my foot off immediatly in either 1st or 2nd under 2000 rpms it bucks and rocks back and forth. Thats the only time I noticed it doing it. for example if I stab the gas but keep my foot on the pedal and ease off it doesnt do it at all. Then I read about the backlash issue/clunk and all the other so called "normal" issues with the 3650 and just chalked it up to that.

gotchopsticks · Mar 4, 2008

i'll check everything out, how much play should be in my u-joints and the other parts? im planning on getting some 4.10's in so i'll save the rearend rebuild for later

that picture of the "thinggy" that was posted is a rearend locker correct? isnt that in the pumpkin? and to get to that i have to take the rear casing off? i guess its time to change the gear fluid though....

thaks for all the help guys.

RandyStinchcomb · Mar 4, 2008

check your engine and trans mounts and have someone check to make-sure ALL the trans to block bolts & crossmember bolts are in place and tight............

Back in Black · Mar 5, 2008

You really shouldn't have much play in a u joint with the car on the ground. Yes you do have to take the casing cover off the back. Does it have aftermarket gears? And be sure to clean the housing of any silicone or adhiesive where the gasket is. Otherwise you will be leaking ass end fluid

Smokeurhonda · Mar 5, 2008

Set your e-brake and get under there and turn the driveshaft. You should see no more then 1/16th of a turn in the shaft. Also Drive the car in reverse and while still rolling back put in first gear and put a decent shock to the drive train. Don't dump the clutch to burn up the tires but don't burn the clutch either. If you hear a "CHING" sounds that is 99% your U-joints. But save up your money buy 4.10's, while your in there have the tech check the preload on your posi-trac clutches. Most people skip this step during rebuild but this can cause alot of play in the drivetrain as well. I had that problem with my car and everytime I let out the clutch it sounds like the rear was going to fall out of the car.

gotchopsticks · Mar 6, 2008

ok, i will check everything middle of next week. i have to swap out my mid pipe for the stock one for the damn smog. guess thats the price for O/R Xpipe lol.
are there specific torque ratings for the mount bolts? or just as hard as i can turn with a 1/2"drive ratchet? thanks for all the help.

Smokeurhonda · Mar 6, 2008

If you mean the bolts for the driveshaft I'm sure there are specs but I just crank mine down nice and tight.

New trans, same problems

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