Like the attention to detail you have. It will pay off in the end. Something I wish I wouldve done as a teen!
Thanks. I got alot of practice on a 53 F100 Coyote auto cross build a while back. That was like designing and fabricating a vehicle from scratch in my garage. Must have went through 300 lbs of welding wire. Maybe more lol.Very Nice MIG work....
Yeah, I was terrible at that when I was a teen. Always rushing and sometimes causing more problems than I fixed!Like the attention to detail you have. It will pay off in the end. Something I wish I wouldve done as a teen!
My Dad used to tell me to " read the instructions " when I was young... LOL.. Who has time for that.... He was right...Yeah, I was terrible at that when I was a teen. Always rushing and sometimes causing more problems than I fixed!
My Dad used to tell me to " read the instructions " when I was young... LOL.. Who has time for that.... He was right...
Looks awesome! Glad it's running great too. I'm going to probably upgrade to 24lb injectors, 70-75mm throttle body and a calibrated MAF. This should work well with ported heads/intake.I've done a bunch of reading and research about the calibrated MAF's and results seem varied. As we know the calibrated MAF reduces the voltage sent to the EEC. Which looks like less air flow to the EEC than what is actually flowing. Because it sees less air it wants to delivers less fuel. So it shortens the injector pulse width to deliver less fuel. That way the bigger injectors are open less time and your not super rich allover the place. The farther you get from the factory 19's the greater this "lie" has to be. And that can create issues with unwanted ignition timing changes due to bad load calculation and problems in situation like start up when the EEC doesn't use input from the MAF or O² sensors. So the bigger the injector the richer it is going to be at start up.
This guy has a video that covers the changes a calibrated MAF introduces. He discusses in great detail and shows what it does to your tune exactly. I suggest watching the whole thing a few times if you were thinking about doing something like this.
At 10:50 he transition from the drawbacks of the 42lb cal MAF and gets into the 24lb cal MAF. This is why I went with that size and don't feel going any higher is a good plan. He even showed what changes to expect in ignition timing, so I'm using the data he provided to set my old school MSD timing retard box. It's a super helpful video.
I can say that my 24lb calibrated MAF works surprisingly excellent. But for results like this I belive three things have to happen.
1) The car needs to be running perfectly and well maintained before hand.
2) The MAF needs to be calibrated for your exact setup from the manufacturer.
3) The injectors that you use with it have to be flowing evenly and exactly what the meter expects.
Up next is some fine tuning with the FMU. I've got some interesting ideas for it.
I've done a bunch of reading and research about the calibrated MAF's and results seem varied. As we know the calibrated MAF reduces the voltage sent to the EEC. Which looks like less air flow to the EEC than what is actually flowing. Because it sees less air it wants to delivers less fuel. So it shortens the injector pulse width to deliver less fuel. That way the bigger injectors are open less time and your not super rich allover the place. The farther you get from the factory 19's the greater this "lie" has to be. And that can create issues with unwanted ignition timing changes due to bad load calculation and problems in situation like start up when the EEC doesn't use input from the MAF or O² sensors. So the bigger the injector the richer it is going to be at start up.
This guy has a video that covers the changes a calibrated MAF introduces. He discusses in great detail and shows what it does to your tune exactly. I suggest watching the whole thing a few times if you were thinking about doing something like this.
At 10:50 he transition from the drawbacks of the 42lb cal MAF and gets into the 24lb cal MAF. This is why I went with that size and don't feel going any higher is a good plan. He even showed what changes to expect in ignition timing, so I'm using the data he provided to set my old school MSD timing retard box. It's a super helpful video.
I can say that my 24lb calibrated MAF works surprisingly excellent. But for results like this I belive three things have to happen.
1) The car needs to be running perfectly and well maintained before hand.
2) The MAF needs to be calibrated for your exact setup from the manufacturer.
3) The injectors that you use with it have to be flowing evenly and exactly what the meter expects.
Up next is some fine tuning with the FMU. I've got some interesting ideas for it.
What do you recommend in order to make things work right?That's a good video. I've explained this many times and very recently. It's nice to see the table to help illustrate the reduced voltage scale and loss of meter resolution when running just a "tuned" meter, large injectors, and stock tune.
What do you recommend in order to make things work right?
Ahhh gotcha. Are you talking like quarter horse or something like that?A digital tune.
This allows the EEC to use the [entire] 5 Volt scale and not just the bottom of the scale when compensating for a larger injector.
Full use of the scale equals more data increments between 0 and 5 volts equals maximum resolution from your high dollar MAF.
Ahhh gotcha. Are you talking like quarter horse or something like that?
I remember the days of putting in a mild cam, heads, intake, 70mm TB, 24lb injectors, calibrated MAF and calling it a day. What more does a tune get you ? Is it necessary? I'm just curious since Ive been out of the fox game for 20 years.I’m at 470ish fwhp on an 80mm MAF with room to go. I use a 2000 GT unit and got it for $35.
Thing with the SN95 and lightning MAF’s is you need an adapter for the flanged end of the MAF to get them to be able to utilize larger tubing whether that is metal tubing with couplers and elbows or formed silicone tube. You will also need the six pin connector for these MAaF’s. You will remove the outer two wires and then wire the other four back into the Fox harness. You can dot this or use an adapter. I just hard wired it in as I will never go back.
Here is my setup. This is with a BBK 70mm TB. All 3.5” metal tube with silicone couplers and a 3.5” to 3” 60 deg elbow to go from the tube to the TB.
Once you get past 30 lb/hr injectors with a calibrated MAF there is a definite difference.
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