nitrous safety

I wouldnt do more than 100 shot, also make sure to get a good tune

Safe is a relative term when it comes to nitrous use, lol! If you have the right setup, and are responsible about using it, then a 150 shot can be safe. In most cases, that is pushing the envelope however.

In all reality though, a 75 or 100 shot is pretty safe for these motors. Even on higher mileage motors. I've been spraying a 125 shot for 3+ years and haven't had any trouble to date. I now have almost 130k miles on the motor also.

Just make sure you get yourself an rpm activated window switch, to keep from spraying at too low or too high of an rpm. 1 heat range colder than stock spark plugs gapped down between 0.035 and 0.040. Also, do not use nitrous with an aftermarket performance tune loaded on your ecu. The advanced timing could cause detonation and eventually engine damage. Thats where having a proper tune with the timing already taken out comes into play. Change your fuel filter regularly. I like to change them at least every other oil change. And finally, do your homework. The more you know about how nitrous oxide works the safer you can make your system work.

I've had some questions as well about this and Tim is one of the go to guys on here in regards to nitrous. How does the tunes work exactly? My car is a daily driver so I need to have the reliable tune for DD duties, how would it work for the nitrous? Would I just have to leave the tune with the what would be a dyno tune for the nitrous and just run it on the street? Would that be ok? I know they make some switches to swap tunes but it doesn't sound like the best idea in the world espically playing with Nitrous. Hopefully the OP was wondering the same thing and I didn't hijack his thread.

I know a few guys with nitrous DDs, and it really can be a nice setup if you are only looking for a little (or a lot) more umph at the track.

I mean, if you already have a full bolt on/geared car (assuming 99-04 PI motor), it's a low-mid 13 second car, which is plenty fun for the street. Then, go and spend:

$500 on a wet nitrous kit
$200 on a window switch/controller
$300 on a dyno tune (just to be EXTRA safe, plus you get a dyno tune with and without the nitrous)

and BAM. A safe, reliable 400 rwhp car. Still plenty fun on the street even without the nitrous, but a pretty quick car at the track on the spray.

I know several people who have gone this route, and all are quite happy. It keeps the car very driveable (like stock) and (more importantly) manageable on the street, but allows for some nice times at the track on some decent tires. Yea, 400 rwhp all the time would be nice, but honestly, what good is it if all you do is light the tires up 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear?

sneaky98gt said:

I know a few guys with nitrous DDs, and it really can be a nice setup if you are only looking for a little (or a lot) more umph at the track.

I mean, if you already have a full bolt on/geared car (assuming 99-04 PI motor), it's a low-mid 13 second car, which is plenty fun for the street. Then, go and spend:

$500 on a wet nitrous kit
$200 on a window switch/controller
$300 on a dyno tune (just to be EXTRA safe, plus you get a dyno tune with and without the nitrous)

and BAM. A safe, reliable 400 rwhp car. Still plenty fun on the street even without the nitrous, but a pretty quick car at the track on the spray.

I know several people who have gone this route, and all are quite happy. It keeps the car very driveable (like stock) and (more importantly) manageable on the street, but allows for some nice times at the track on some decent tires. Yea, 400 rwhp all the time would be nice, but honestly, what good is it if all you do is light the tires up 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear?

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Do you know how the 2 tunes work? As in how to switch between the two? That is one of the big holdups for me. Would a tuner be able to hold a tune that would be needed for nitrous and the daily driver tune?

Mine isnt a DD anymore, but it was not to long ago.

My car has 161k miles on it and I am spraying a 150 shot to it. The best thing to do is get an RPM window switch. I cannot tell you how many times mine has saved me. Also, buy some NGK TR6 spark plugs and gap them just as Tim said.

As far as tunes go, you can run a stock tune with a 100 shot if you are running 93 octane. There really honestly is no need for a dyno tune when it comes to nitrous at this shot level. I promise, all they are going to do is pull a degree or 2 out, and charge you an extra $100 or so for it. You dont need a dyno tune for nitrous until you decide to put a dedicated fuel system in for the nitrous and run race fuel for the nitrous and all this other stuff.

For every 25 horsepower shot you add above a 100 shot, pull 1 degree of timing out. Also, if you decide to go bigger than a 100 shot, you need to upgrade to an SVT Focus pump. The SVT Focus pump is a 255lph pump and is a direct drop in.

txredgt said:

Do you know how the 2 tunes work? As in how to switch between the two? That is one of the big holdups for me. Would a tuner be able to hold a tune that would be needed for nitrous and the daily driver tune?

Click to expand...

Depends on if you get a chip or a programmer. With a chip, it's as easy as turning a dial to the tune you want (I believe they store 4 tunes); very easy and fast, but requires a dyno tune to program and you can't change the parameters of the tune after you put it in. A programmer holds 3 custom tunes; you can go in and change between them anytime you'd like, but it takes a few minutes and the car has to be off to do it. You can also change some basic parameters like WOT air/fuel and spark, as well as shift points/firmness for autos.

I honestly cannot believe I forgot to mention this, as I refused to spray my car before I bought one:

A wideband.

A wideband is the absolute best thing in the world that you can have with a nitrous set up. That way you can keep an eye on those AFR's!!!!