Nitrous-wet or dry?

i don't know about killing it but as far as wet or dry. I would go with dry and get a better fuel pump. Wet injects both fuel and nitrous at the same so it is a bit safer, but more involved. Dry uses the stock fuel system and requires that to add the additional fuel to compisate

Mine doesn't use oil, it just squirts it out the rear main.

I just hit 190,000 miles on my car this w/e. As long as you are halfway smart with the nitrous, and the engine is in good shape, you will be fine.

The worst I've done so far is burn an electrode off a plug because we put too much timing in the car at the track.

Dry shot....Zex didn't have a wet kit back when I bought one. I've been spraying for a while.

you will have alot of opinions here but i think the wet kit is the best when properly installed and safer than a dry kit...and to properly install requires in my opinion a filter #1 never run without a filter most kits come with a filter,a purge solenoid and tube some kits come with solenoid and tube and some don't you need to check before buying system,a window switch which will activate nitrous at 3000 rpm's and turn it off at 5800 rpms,a wide open throttle switch that will allow nitrous to activate only at wide open throttle,a fuel pressure cut off switch (adjustable) set at approx 33 psi this will turn nitrous system off if fuel pressure goes below 33 psi and a fuel pressure guage mine is permanetly installed,a bottle warmer with an automatic cutoff pressure switch set at 1050 psi and a pressure guage...all these items need to be wired in with relays i have all this equipment on my system wired in with 2 relays two switches and a push button switch (heater switch and nitrous arm switch and a purge push button switch).it can get expensive. but in my opinion this is what you need to run a nitrous kit safely and efficiently..and in my research before i bought my compucar system i found that only two nitrous companys carry a lifetime warranty that is compucar and nitrous express this is very important when considering a system to buy i bought mine used and i contacted compucar and they informed me that the warranty follows the system from buyer to buyer and that if i have any problems they would replace or repair free of charge if i paid actual shipping costs.
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that is some really great info!

Holy wires and solenoids batman!

I have the basic dry kit. Nothing else. Zex control box, a bottle, hoses, and a switch. Runs great as you can see in my signature.

I ran the 100 shot on the car with everything stock. I felt I needed more fuel with the 125 shot. Fuel regulator, 190 (at the time) fuel pump, and 24lb injectors/Mass Air.

Follow the instructions with the kit. Drop the timing, colder plugs, gap them to .035 and jet the kit right.

here is some good info...to help you decide.
What is nitrous and how does it work?

In its most basic form nitrous is just an oxygen molecule combined with two nitrous molecules. It has no color or smell and will not harm the atmosphere in any way. Nitrous is stored under very high pressure in a liquid form in a tank much like a SCUBA tank. When nitrous is introduced to the normal air and pressure that we breathe it turns into a gas.Contrary to popular belief nitrous by itself will not make any power for an engine. All the nitrous does is give the engine more oxygen to burn fuel with. When the nitrous hits the engine the additional oxygen helps to burn the fuel at a much faster rate, which in turn provides more power to drive a piston down faster in the piston chamber and thus creates more power. The key to the whole equation is fuel and how much power can be harnessed by the consumption of fuel. If this combination is not correct then it will lead to an uncontrolled bust of energy otherwise known as detonation inside the engine. When this happens one can expect to experience burnt pistons, blown rings, and thrown rods. Yes, not good at all!! This is where the problem lies with the bad reputation that nitrous has in the performance community.Now let me make this point very clear. It is not nitrous that destroys engines but the lack of fuel (running lean) and the components of the engine itself that determine when damage will occur.

Types of nitrous injection

• DRY
By far the easiest to understand and use of all four types is the dry injection system. Probably when you think of a street-car running nitrous you are thinking of this form of injection. Companies such as Zex and NOS have made dry systems extremely popular recently. Usually these systems are activated at wide-open throttle (WOT) and are almost as easy to use as just flooring the accelerator. A dry manifold injection system works by simply spraying only nitrous into the intake manifold. At this point, the cars fuel injectors must supply enough fuel to burn the additional oxygen.Now, with fuel being the key to nitrous injection, we can see the biggest disadvantage to having a dry system. Because the cars fuel injectors are supplying the additional fuel the amount of power you can gain from a dry system is going to be limited. As a general rule of thumb you can only get a maximum of a 75 hp shot out of a dry system. Another common problem with dry kits is that they suffer from distribution problems, meaning that there is always the possibility that the cylinders will get an uneven amount of nitrous sprayed into them. This uneven distribution can cause the injection to be less potent. However, dry kits have some good advantages as well. Dry kits are very easy to install and use so that means they are perfect for the nitrous beginner. Also if you opt for a Zex kit you get the benefit of a “computer controlled safety module.” Just be careful and do not let the “safety features” lure you into thinking that you are 100% safe from mishaps.

• WET
In the wet system both fuel and nitrous are mixed together before they are injected. The most common wet system that you will encounter is the “single fogger” set-up but there are also plate kits, direct port injections, and multi-stage injections as well. There are several manufactures of wet nitrous systems, but the main ones are NOS and Nitrous Express. In a typical wet set-up both fuel and nitrous are delivered and separated from each other by solenoids. Once the system is activated both the fuel and nitrous are pumped into jets/nozzles that will mix the fuel and nitrous together before allowing it to flow into the engine. These systems can be either set-up to inject at WOT or at the push of a button that the driver controls.Now although wet nitrous injection does have some special problems (especially the single fogger), it is the best way to experience true nitrous power. Because the mixing of fuel and nitrous is done by the solenoids and jets, you get a more accurate shot and you do not have the limitations on a “safe” shot size like you have in a dry system. Wet systems will allow you to use any size shot of nitrous that you want, just be sure you have taken the necessary precautions with your engine. Another advantage of wet kits over dry is the multiple application methods of which we will discuss a little later. Some of the disadvantages that you can expect to see with wet kits are increased install time and costs, extra engine build up and support modifications cost, and more monitoring and maintenance of your engine.The best thing about the wet systems in my opinion is the ability to lay down some serious power for the good old drag strip! Two of the most common ways to do this is with either a NOS Plate Kit or Direct Port systems.

Dry vs. Wet. Which is better?This question always comes up with every nitrous discussion. The bottom line is what is your ultimate goal? If you are just looking for a small performance increase, working with a small budget, or new to nitrous then the dry system is the best way to go. On the other hand, if you are looking for big nitrous power, building a drag car, or you feel comfortable with nitrous injection and have the money to spend to get the proper support modifications then a wet system is probably for you. If you have any doubts about nitrous at all then the best policy is to wait and decide if it is really what you want to do. If you are unsure about your decision then research some more or ride in a nitrous powered car until you feel sure about your decision. Better safe than sorry if you ask me!

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I put my own kit together I picked up a compucar wet kit without a bottle localy for 150$ and a bottle for 100$ off ebay. I have a N.O.S bottle warmer, liquid filled FP guage, MSD window switch, had a digital6+ (for timing) but now have a 6al, had a FP switch but they are known to go bad often and just watch the PF on the cowl. I am running a N.O.S fogger nozzle with this setup now though. I lost all my jets (50, 75, 100, 150, and 175 hp jets) and only had the 125's so I got a fogger nozzle and some 150's I am wanting to install some 175's soon after getting some base lines.

I like the wet kits as it does not put any added stress on the inj. I ran a 125 shot and had great results. At or around the 125 level and higher is the point you should be looking at a bigger fuel pump. I moved up to a intank 190lph not too long after installing just for piece of mind.

Dry kits are cool too, if you have a large enough inj. and a means to tune you ca really run some large shots threw a dry setup. Run the safty stuff and you will be fine.

I want to know how the car knows to inject more fuel with a dry kit? Does it come with a new fuel pressure reg or something??

I thought about getting the dry kit myself but is it really only safe to 75hp? I was hoping to spray a 100hp shot.

94fordmustanggt said:

Which would be better to use for nitrous; wet or dry? From what I understand a dry kit is much simpler; but do I have to upgrade the fuel pump or anything else? I already have an Accel ignition and FRPP wires. Also- the engine has about 190,000 miles on it but does not use any oil and seems to have good compression. Will this kill it? Thanks

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What are your mods. I've been contemplating the same thing. However, I've decided that when I do go nitrous it will be a wet system because the HCI mods have my injector's (24lbs) duty cycle up high so if I put on a dry system it would most likely tax my injectors. Now I could step up to 30s and get a away wit the dry kit but then I will have to retune my car with the TwEECer - don't want that. Basically what I'm saying is if the car is stock then the dry kit won't tax the injector's duty cycle as much but definitely put in a 190 or higher fuel pump, no ? asked, for safety reasons.

Methodical said:

What are your mods. I've been contemplating the same thing. However, I've decided that when I do go nitrous it will be a wet system because the HCI mods have my injector's (24lbs) duty cycle up high so if I put on a dry system it would most likely tax my injectors. Now I could step up to 30s and get a away wit the dry kit but then I will have to retune my car with the TwEECer - don't want that. Basically what I'm saying is if the car is stock then the dry kit won't tax the injector's duty cycle as much but definitely put in a 190 or higher fuel pump, no ? asked, for safety reasons.

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I have 24# and prob going dry. It somehow raises fuel pressure Ithink and its only for a few seconds not like you are driving that hard all the time so I really don't see a problem wit hraising the FP or taxing the injectors for a few seconds. Anyone else?

I still want to know how/what bumps the fuel pressure up on the dry systems. Anyone?!

The vaccum line that connects to the fuel regulator. On the dry Zex kit, you remove the hose from the intake tree and run it to the box, then run the box back to the Fuel Regulator. The box then adjusts the vaccum based on how much juice is flowing through it.

Thats what I kinda figured. Thanks for the info. After I get a hood and swap in a T5 I think its time for NOOOOOOOSSSSSS.

[Vin Diesel]Hopefully the 100shot won't blow the welds off my intake.[/Vin Diesel]

N.O.S. brand is like the Zex, it has a vac. tee that hooks up to the N2o noid and when the press. hits the line from the n2o noid it bumps the FP. Zex just makes it packaged nicer.