no start

ras50gt · Nov 4, 2006

I can't get the 67 to start. I tested the battery and its fine. I then replaced the starter solenoid because thats one of the cheapest things to start with, before going with a starter,etc. Im now thinking it might be the voltage regulator. I was looking online, searching for any threads and found one which sounds similar to my problem but the page expired so there were no answers. Heres what someone posted, I have basically the same problem but I only here one click and then lose all power, and then have to take a lead off the terminal to try again. Heres the post.......

"Here is the problem. I've got a 64 1/2 mustang. I've replaced the starter solenoid, voltage regulator, starter, ignition switch, distributor, and the plugs/ wires.

When I turn the key to start it, the starter solenoid make a fast clicking sound and the lights go out in the interior. I have to take off one of the leads on the battery and then put it back on for me to try again only to have the same results... I have things wired up correctly I am just now at a loss.."

Besides this, I was looking at kragens and autozone for a cheap voltage regulator, all are generic brands, but why are some closer to 50 bucks and others around 15 bucks? Not sure what the differences would be? Thanks for the help.

2nd Mustang · Nov 4, 2006

Try bypassing the battery cable with a really good set of jumper cable. I've had many problems with old battery cables going bad on the inside, even if they looked good on the outside.

65stang289v2 · Nov 13, 2006

I had the same problem with my 65 a while ago.
My problem was a problematic starter. The starter was loose and would not engage the flywheel. then I replaced the starter; but the problem was worn ring gears on the flywheel (I have a 4speed). That screwed up my new starter, so ended up getting a new starter.

I did exactly what you did initially, and tested another battery. Try doing that and see if you car starts then. Also check if your starter is engaging.

One more thing you can do when you do get the car to run, while the car is running, check with the battery meter, if your battery is charging; if not, then your alternator might not be charging your battery; then you'll need to change alternator.

The guy in the thread with the 64 probably has a starter problem.

65stang289v2 · Nov 13, 2006

65stang289v2 said:
I had the same problem with my 65 a while ago.
My problem was a problematic starter. The starter was loose and would not engage the flywheel. then I replaced the starter; but the problem was worn ring gears on the flywheel (I have a 4speed). That screwed up my new starter, so ended up getting a new starter.

I did exactly what you did initially, and tested another battery. Try doing that and see if you car starts then. Also check if your starter is engaging.

One more thing you can do when you do get the car to run, while the car is running, check with the battery meter, if your battery is charging; if not, then your alternator might not be charging your battery; then you'll need to change alternator.

The guy in the thread with the 64 probably has a starter problem.

ras50gt · Nov 14, 2006

Got the battery load tested, it was good. Already changed the soleniod and just got back from getting the starter tested and that passed the test too. Not sure what it can be now. Im thinking maybe the cable from the soleniod to the starter might be bad or another connection is bad somewhere. I noticed that there wasn't a ground off of the starter itself and was told I should have it grounded, so I ran a ground off of one of the bolts on the back of the starter, maybe the ground cable I used wasn't sufficient. Is there suppose to be a ground coming off the starter? Any other ideas on what the problem could be or ways to test for the problem.

JC6715 · Nov 14, 2006

+1 on the battery cables.

I had the exact problem you are describing, replaced the two battery cables and the cable from the solenoid to the starter and she fired up better than ever...

For $35 worth of good cables, I'd say you can't go wrong, your cables probably need replacing anyway if you haven't done it in awhile.

Another thing to check for is to make sure you have your negative connection on the battery grounded to the frame and a ground from the frame to the block (I put mine on the intake manifold). This will help electrical bugs too...

ras50gt · Nov 14, 2006

I'm going to go get all new cables tomorrow....either put them on tomorrow or Thursday depending on the weather and if I have any time. So, I will come back on to let you know if anything changes or if I need more help. One other question..... I know there is the single cable going from the solenoid to the starter, but is there suppose to be a ground connected to the starter as well?

D.Hearne · Nov 15, 2006

Solenoid clicking, & the lights go out suddenly= bad cables or loose/corroded ground.

dgw8022 · Nov 15, 2006

Sounds like a weak ground. I had that problem on my Boat where I would try to start it the starter would click and then everything would be dead. I checked the ground connection and it was loose once I tightened everything up it started every time.

ras50gt · Nov 16, 2006

I'm goning to go get all new cables soon. But I still wanted to know if the starter is suppose to have a ground hooked up to it? I know its got the one cable from the starter to the soleniod, is that the only connection it needs? Thanks

mustangdave · Nov 16, 2006

ras50gt · Nov 16, 2006

is that a yes to the first part of the question or the second part?

Capt Dan · Nov 16, 2006

One Cable from the starter.

One Ground from the engine to the firewall.

ras50gt · Nov 17, 2006

Just changed out all the old cables....still not starting. All I hear is like a grinding type noise which I thought was coming from the starter, but I stood near the engine while someone tried to start the car and the noise is coming from the solenoid, as far as I can tell. The soleniod is brand new, replaced that before anything else. Any ideas? Once agian too, im getting less response from the electrical after trying to start the car, the horn works faintly and the map lights barely light up like its weak. Do you think my battery is shot, I did have it tested and they said it passed the test. Maybe I should try getting it tested at another auto store.

D.Hearne · Nov 17, 2006

You've still got grounding problems. You need a good ground cable and clean surfaces where it connects to the engine and body. Just new cables isn't a solution, the whole path must be clear and clean.

2nd Mustang · Nov 17, 2006

Do you have a voltmeter to test with? A good analog meter will make it easier to understand IMO. A lesser numeric reading on the resistance scale will indicate a more solid ground and higher number will indicate more resistance in the path you are measuring.

The cable from the starter to the solenoid should have a pretty solid ground reading on it, because of the ground the starter picks up from the block which should be grounded to the chassis and eventually to the negative side of the battery. The cable from the battery to the soledoid should have the 12volts DC from the positive side of the battery. When you turn the ignition key on, the solenoid temporarily connects the negative and positive cables on the solenoid to spin the starter. A bad ground from the engine to the chassis to the battery will not give the starter enough of a negative path to spin the starter.

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