Not a Mustang but still a Ford 5.0 and still need help!!

What code(s) did it ever spit?

I'd probably start at the Crank sensor (sometimes you can see a cylinder Identification code if this is acting up) and note the values at the sensor. Also make sure the reluctor isnt damaged. Then work upwards.

Good luck.

The DIS ignition is a bit different. Use a Noid light in any easliy accessible fuel injector connector to check and see if you are getting pulse to trigger the ignition.

donsbad68 said:

Thanks for the input, where can I obtain a noid light, and if it pulses what to check next? If it doesnt?

Click to expand...

Get a noid light form AutoZone or other auto parts store, or even better a set of them

This set is from http://www.toolking.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=12492 and costs $12.

The magnetic pickup on the cranks and the wiring from it to the computer are the next thing to check.
Also check to see if the computer has power to it.


AutoZone wiring diagram



AutoZone online manual for your 97 Explorer.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/0b/ea/d3/0900823d800bead3.jsp. The manual has lots of good stuff, theory of opertion, wiring diagrams, etc.
Read it & use it.

The Cranks OK but no strart checklist for Fuel injected Mustangs will make a good outline on what to check.
Combine the Autozone online manual to show you what systems are different and you will find and fix the problem.

Keep in mind that the specifics are different, but the plan is the same: break it down into small
sub-systems you can easily test. Then eliminate what works and you are left with what doesn't work.
Concentrate on the don't work items and you will fix the problem.

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

Revised 18-Oct-2006 to include TFI fault during crank/run cycle
All text applies to
all models unless stated otherwise.

Note: 94-95 specific changes are in red

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on.
Place car in neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Remove the coil wire from distributor
& and hold it 3/8” away from the engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter
solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter,
is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD or Crane ignition box if so equipped
B.) Coil
C.) TFI module
D.) PIP sensor in distributor. See paragraph 3A - a noid light will tell if the pip is working by flashing
when the engine is cranking.
E.) No ECC or computer power - ECC or computer relay failure
86-93 models only:
ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
94-95 models only: EEC or PCM power relay in the constant control relay module. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
F.) No ECC or computer power - fuse or fuse link failure
86-93 models only: Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse
links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid.
94-95 models only: 20 amp EEC fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire.
H.) Computer
J.) Engine fires briefly, but dies immediately when the key is released to the Run position. Crank the
engine & when it fires off, pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks
like it is stuck on a screw). Hold the switch in the crank position: if it continues to run there is a
problem with either the ignition switch or TFI module. Check for 12 volts at the red/green wire
on the coil with the switch in the Run position. Good 12 volts, then replace the TFI.

See the following links for wiring diagrams...

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for 79-88 model cars
Computer/fuel pump/ignition wiring diagram, 86 model http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167158.gif
Computer/fuel pump/ignition wiring diagram, 87 model http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8016715e.gif
Computer/fuel pump/ignition wiring diagram, 88 model http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167162.gif

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a.jsp for 89-93 model cars
Computer/fuel pump/ignition wiring diagram, 89-90 cars http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8019595f.gif
Computer/fuel pump/ignition wiring diagram, 91-93 cars
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195960.gif

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp
for 94-98 model cars

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so.
Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it.
Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of
fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on.
It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC
test connector and jump the connector in the Upper RH corner to ground.


If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure –
remove the cap from the Schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel
should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you
can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate,
but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have. If you have any doubts about
having sufficient fuel flow/pressure, rent a fuel pressure test gauge from the auto parts store.
That will tell you for sure if you have adequate fuel pressure.


No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering
the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92.
On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts
at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) 86-93 models only: Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue
wire on the fuel pump relay. The fuse links live in the wiring harness near the starter solenoid.
94-95 models only: 20 amp fuel pump fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the
Dark green/yellow wire on the constant control relay module.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove the vacuum line from the regulator and inspect for fuel
escaping while the pump is running.

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

A.) A Noid light available from any auto parts store, is one way to test the injector wiring.
The Noid light plugs into the fuel injector harness in place of any easily accessible injector.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel
rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the
injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around,
and works good too.

a.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
b.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at
the rear of the upper manifold).
c.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the
orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.


4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off: only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
E.) No start when hot - Press the throttle to the floor & try starting it if you get this far. If it starts, replace the ECT.

does the truck have pats aka a chip in the key? If so look and see if your theft light is flashing rapidly

does it have a 1260 code?

Use the diagram I posted & check for 12 volts on the red/lt green wire going to the coil packs. No 12 volts and you have a bad #19 fuse or other wiring problems.

If your truck has pats which is passive anti theft system and you replaced the pcm it will not start untill you program the keys to the new pcm. if your keys are kinda big square shaped and not small oval type shaped then you have pats and the keys must be programmed.............

donsbad68 said:

No power at the red/lt. green wire at the coil, the 19 fuse is good. I hate this car.

Click to expand...

Is there 12 volts in the wire at the fusebox? If not, I'd check that the 'hot side' of the fuse shows 12 volts with the key turned to run.

m

Im just throwing this out but how about the ignition module get it tested at autozone

I would check all electrical connections, starting at the battery and working your way out. May sound like a lot of work and headache, but you may be suprised what you might find sometimes. I found some pretty wierd wiring problems in my Mustang when I first bought it. But thats just me...I am an electrician and I love finding and fixing wiring problems

Good luck!

donsbad68 said:

All fuses are hot when they should be, the noid light was a fail, I originally said it pulsed but it doesnt seem to. Fuse 19 is powered like it should be but no power at the red/lt grn wire at the coils when its in the "on" position and cranking.

Click to expand...

You have found the source of your problem, so don't waste time chasing other rabbits. Study the wiring diagram and follow the red/lt green wire from the fuse panel to the coil packs. Somewhere in the path to the coil packs there is a broken place in the red/lt green wire or bad connection. The tan/black wire on the PCM relay comes from the same power source as the red/ltgreen wire, so it should have 12 volts on it anytime the ignition switch is in the Run position.

Also look for 12 volts on both sides of the PCM relay when the switch is in the Run position. Check the yellow (power feed from fuse) and red wire (switched power to PCM)

Does the WOT crank thing cut the power to injectors or stop the switching of the ground?
If you have a funky tps that has the computer thinking it's wot when it's not, it won't fire the injectors. Just a thought.