I have a 1991 5.0 302 that I swapped into a 1995 bmw shell, I have the mustang ecu running the engine so everything that needs power should have it. I’m looking for things to check please. I have the ignition timing set close but have not set it with a timing light so that may be my issue itself, the engine has aftermarket internals mainly through ford racing and trickflow, everything except the crank shaft has been replaced I have .490 lift on the cam so I know it won’t be smooth.. anyway I have plenty of fuel due to putting a walboro 525 fuel pump and larger 18lb injectors. Anyway you guys would be able to shoot ideas as to why I can run it ok for about 2 minutes until it wants to die at idle? I can keep it running if I keep it above idle
Welcome to stangnet
do you have the diagnostic port? Is the spout there?
pull the spout and if it will idle, set the timing
check for vacuum leaks,we will start there.
I do not have a diagnostics port just the computer which has made my journey a struggle already lol, I will set the timing with a light but correct me if I’m wrong but I thought I saw you should get it warmed up a little before setting ignition timing? I have replaced the evap vacuum lines coming off the intake (I have a gt40 upper and lower intake ported by tmoss) and tried to go through the rest of them and replaced all that I could see. Although I just came across a breather that goes from my upper to Lower intake I believe I’m not quite sure what it is to be honest I will post a picture
PCV valve, there is also a screen under it that should be checked/cleaned
Ok I’ll look to clean that and put it back in, if that is not the issue do you think having the 525gph fuel pump is too much for the stock fuel regulator?
That's a lot of pump, aftermarket regulator?
No, the stock 30psi regulator and for some reason my fuel rail doesn’t have a shraider valve to see what’s flowing through so I might have to tap in just before the rail and see what the pressure is. I still have not gotten to timing it with a light but I have the weekend off so we’ll see how it runs after that and cleaning the pcv, I have that to one of the ports on the upper intake I don’t know if it matters which port?
I just got done doing a full rebuild with eagle rods, trickflow twisted wedge pistons which makes the engine bored .040 over making it a 306, twisted wedge heads, trickflow valves and roller rockers, ford racing hydraulic lifters, trickflow cam .490 lift, ported upper and lower gt40 intakes, 24lb injectors, edelbrock fuel rails, walboro 525 fuel pump, and aeromotive fuel regulator all run with -6AN fuel line set at 36psi, BBK 70mm throttle body, BBK MAF for 24lb injectors, ford racing dual timing chain. I set my base timing to 12 for initial start up and it sounded to be running good but wouldn’t idle so I adjusted the set screw on the tb until it could idle itself and checked timing with a light, then tried to run it. The idle was surging so I went to set my tps voltage but in order to do that I had to adjust the idle screw back almost 3 full turns and when set at .987v it wouldn’t idle but with my foot slightly on the pedal would stay running smooth. I replaced the IAC (which made my intake now whistle crazy loud?) and it runs smoother but still wants to die at idle. Do I need a tune or can I adjust the idle up to where it doesn’t die out and catches itself?
Welcome to stangnet
do you have the diagnostic port? Is the spout there?
pull the spout and if it will idle, set the timing
check for vacuum leaks,we will start there.
I do not have a diagnostics port just the computer which has made my journey a struggle already lol, I will set the timing with a light but correct me if I’m wrong but I thought I saw you should get it warmed up a little before setting ignition timing? I have replaced the evap vacuum lines coming off the intake (I have a gt40 upper and lower intake ported by tmoss) and tried to go through the rest of them and replaced all that I could see. Although I just came across a breather that goes from my upper to Lower intake I believe I’m not quite sure what it is to be honest I will post a picture
PCV valve, there is also a screen under it that should be checked/cleaned
Ok I’ll look to clean that and put it back in, if that is not the issue do you think having the 525gph fuel pump is too much for the stock fuel regulator?
That's a lot of pump, aftermarket regulator?
No, the stock 30psi regulator and for some reason my fuel rail doesn’t have a shraider valve to see what’s flowing through so I might have to tap in just before the rail and see what the pressure is. I still have not gotten to timing it with a light but I have the weekend off so we’ll see how it runs after that and cleaning the pcv, I have that to one of the ports on the upper intake I don’t know if it matters which port?
I just got done doing a full rebuild with eagle rods, trickflow twisted wedge pistons which makes the engine bored .040 over making it a 306, twisted wedge heads, trickflow valves and roller rockers, ford racing hydraulic lifters, trickflow cam .490 lift, ported upper and lower gt40 intakes, 24lb injectors, edelbrock fuel rails, walboro 525 fuel pump, and aeromotive fuel regulator all run with -6AN fuel line set at 36psi, BBK 70mm throttle body, BBK MAF for 24lb injectors, ford racing dual timing chain. I set my base timing to 12 for initial start up and it sounded to be running good but wouldn’t idle so I adjusted the set screw on the tb until it could idle itself and checked timing with a light, then tried to run it. The idle was surging so I went to set my tps voltage but in order to do that I had to adjust the idle screw back almost 3 full turns and when set at .987v it wouldn’t idle but with my foot slightly on the pedal would stay running smooth. I replaced the IAC (which made my intake now whistle crazy loud?) and it runs smoother but still wants to die at idle. Do I need a tune or can I adjust the idle up to where it doesn’t die out and catches itself?