odds of my high rpm nitrous 306 surviving

[DarkoStoj]

I'm building a 306 for my 68 Mustang, and was curious if this was too much power for the bottom end to survive. I plan on shifting between 7,000 and 7,500RPM

Stock 68 Block .030 over
10:1 compression forged TRW pistons
Eagle I beam rods
Stock crank turned .10

Comp Cams XR280R Solid Roller
242/248 dur @.50
.608/.614 lift
110LCA

Box stock AFR185CC heads with the 58CC chamber
Vic Jr Intake
Speed Demon 750 Double pumper
NOS 150HP Cheater spray
MSD Digital 6+ Ignition
Mallory Unilite Distributor

Tremec 3550 with Billet Aluminum Flywheel and Centerforce D/F Clutch

4.56 Gear with Track lock (until I blow up my 8" and go with a 9" and probably 4.10's)

 

[Euphoric306]

ur gonna need some bigger injectors than stock for that combo

 

[Rick 91GT]

Is that a "0 Internal balance motor" if so you may be OK but keep the tune in check, detonation will make the crank walk and take out the block.

Now if it is a 50 oz or 28oz motor I am not feeling as good....

The TUNE will be the key.,

 

[DarkoStoj]

Is that a "0 Internal balance motor" if so you may be OK but keep the tune in check, detonation will make the crank walk and take out the block.

Now if it is a 50 oz or 28oz motor I am not feeling as good....

The TUNE will be the key.,

Its a 28oz balance

I'd be thinking that I wouldn't have much of a problem with detonation since I'll be running aluminum heads, 10:1 compression, and 93 octane

 

[Rick 91GT]

Well the 28oz is a lot better then 50oz but 7500 is a little higher then I would go for a motor that isn't internally balanced, really depends on the assembky, machine work etc....

Yes the alum heads will help with detonation but it will not make is disappear. With a 10:1 motor on pump gas I would be careful with timing on the N2O, humidty plays a major roll as well.

Go 1 step cold on the plugs gap them down to .035, I would try intial timing at 8-10 degrees, make a few short pulls on the N2O, shut the car off and read the plugs.