Oh, If I Only Had An Extra 5 Or 6 Grand Laying Around..

Boosted92LX

Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?
15 Year Member
Dec 19, 2010
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#1
I'd go buy one of these and a control pack...

http://m.ebay.com/itm/2012-Ford-Mustang-5-0L-Engine-Motor-8cyl-OEM-49K-Miles-LKQ-141206004-/311754974349?fits=Make:Ford|Model:Mustang&hash=item48960b648d:g:AoIAAOSwnHZYRxEg&_trkparms=pageci%3Ae2743093-cba0-11e6-916d-0050568f2fbb%7Cparentrq%3A3c971d841590a2a737bdc4a1ffcda04c%7Ciid%3A7


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Soon enough, though. Knee surgery screwed my plans up royally this year..

LS what?;)
 
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#7
mikestang63 said:
wow.. these were 6k a year ago... To be honest,,, can't see why anyone would spend money on a pushrod rebuild... This makes it about the same price
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After owning an '11 for almost 4 years, I can tell you why. The coyote engine feels nothing like a pushrod engine. It has to be revved to feel the power, unless of course it has a twin screw/TVS on top. For those that like N/A low end grunt, pushrod engines are where its at. They are both fun, but its all about what you want.
 
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#8
FoxMustangLvr said:
What about the turbo'd motor? Are you over jack stands already?
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Yeah, I'm over it. It's not just the joys of the turbo, it's the utter nonsense that goes along with antiquated engine management, The bugs and quirks of ancient electronics that never ever work the way they are supposed to, (see @hoopty5.0 's project..) Also, the limits of the stock block, when a dart costs half of a coyote.. the chit you have to do to get to coyote power level... It's pointless. I'm done. I'm still going to keep the engine for my '49, but I'm going to lose the efi garbage for a good old carb (or maybe two on a tunnel ram).. I have a buddy with a fox who is eyeing my turbo setup.
 
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#9
95BlueStallion said:
After owning an '11 for almost 4 years, I can tell you why. The coyote engine feels nothing like a pushrod engine. It has to be revved to feel the power, unless of course it has a twin screw/TVS on top. For those that like N/A low end grunt, pushrod engines are where its at. They are both fun, but its all about what you want.
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I can sum up the reason to dump pushrod in one word. Reliability.

On their own with early systems (sans efi) they really would run forever. However, years and years and years of heat cycles, corrosion, broken circuitry, gray or black tfis, crappy ecus, its just not worth the headache. In my calypso car, even before I went turbo, something would break every other time I drove to town in that dang thing. It was ridiculous.

You can't pull these cars out of the garage and run them once a month and expect to have them behave, it just doesn't work. I'm amazed my son's car is still going- knock on wood- and all I can figure is the only original component on it is part of the harness... and it gets run every single day.

The coyotes don't have the off idle torque the pushrods have, but you only have to hit 2500 rpm before it comes in and surpasses a pushrod.. and pulls like mad all the way to the 7k rev limiter. I've driven both, and I like low end grunt, but pulling to the moon is my bag... and -I'm not sure which trans you had or how it was geared, but 1st in my 6spd is low. Too low to even idle around a parking lot in... Plenty grunt there. If you can't leap out of the hole with that, you're doing it wrong...:shrug:
 
#10
I had a 6 speed manual and 3.73 gears. Yeah, its a low enough first gear ratio to spin the tires, be jumpy, etc, but I know you know what I mean by its just not the same feel.

And the reliability thing, I think that is hit and miss depending on the car. Really just depends on the life the car has had. My bone stocker started just fine last week in the Iowa cold, idled for about 30 mins with no over heating, surging, anything. Revved it a few times once it was up to temp, and it came right back down to idle smoothly.

I am not at all trying to dog on your choice to coyote swap. They are fun engines that pull hard. I was just replying to the why would anyone even rebuild a pushrod engine question. Its all about personal preference! When you decide to pull the trigger on your coyote, I call dibs on your old pushrod "junk." ;)
 
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#11
This is a bunch of Bull doogers.

These cars will fail because they are old. The wiring is old, the suspension is old, the accessories are old, The A/C is old,..every single thing about the car is old.
To expect it to run reliably with 30 year old crusty assed sht managing the systems is tantamount to expecting to be 25 forever.

Regardless of how the engine is managed,.....EFI, or Carb'd, the antiquated supporting circuitry will be just as detrimental one way or the other. If you go into a build like this, and bolt on a whole bunch of stuff that relies on crotchedy assed infrastructure to keep it all running,.......only a matter of time.

But, That's only part of the problem here.........

It's the deep end of the pool that's the real p isser.

People go out there all the time,..and when they get tired of constantly treading water,...They move to the 3' end and start having fun.

Moral to the story,....Keep your mods no deeper than chest deep, and you won't swallow any water.
 
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#12
95BlueStallion said:
I had a 6 speed manual and 3.73 gears. Yeah, its a low enough first gear ratio to spin the tires, be jumpy, etc, but I know you know what I mean by its just not the same feel.

And the reliability thing, I think that is hit and miss depending on the car. Really just depends on the life the car has had. My bone stocker started just fine last week in the Iowa cold, idled for about 30 mins with no over heating, surging, anything. Revved it a few times once it was up to temp, and it came right back down to idle smoothly.

I am not at all trying to dog on your choice to coyote swap. They are fun engines that pull hard. I was just replying to the why would anyone even rebuild a pushrod engine question. Its all about personal preference! When you decide to pull the trigger on your coyote, I call dibs on your old pushrod "junk." ;)
Click to expand...
Other thing is the weight difference between the cars. Drop 5-800# with that power band and gear the rearend properly...different animal. I did test drive a coyote a few months ago and do understand what you're saying though.
 
#13
madmike1157 said:
This is a bunch of Bull doogers.

These cars will fail because they are old. The wiring is old, the suspension is old, the accessories are old, The A/C is old,..every single thing about the car is old.
To expect it to run reliably with 30 year old crusty assed sht managing the systems is tantamount to expecting to be 25 forever.

Regardless of how the engine is managed,.....EFI, or Carb'd, the antiquated supporting circuitry will be just as detrimental one way or the other. If you go into a build like this, and bolt on a whole bunch of stuff that relies on crotchedy assed infrastructure to keep it all running,.......only a matter of time.

But, That's only part of the problem here.........

It's the deep end of the pool that's the real p isser.

People go out there all the time,..and when they get tired of constantly treading water,...They move to the 3' end and start having fun.

Moral to the story,....Keep your mods no deeper than chest deep, and you won't swallow any water.
Click to expand...


OR just keep gasoline in your car, huh?
 
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#14
Boosted92LX said:
OR just keep gasoline in your car, huh?
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Well that goes w/o saying,...other than me doin dumb sht, I'm the only one who hasn't had " old crap" related problems between the 4-5 of us here w/ turbo/sc projects going on.

Because I don't have any old crap.

I read Collins thread daily. I have lost track between the previous engine, and now the 351 as to how many times the words distributor, DIYPNP, and tfi have been used.

There is clearly something going with a couple of you guys that is somehow related to the use of the old factory ecu harness/ wiring pin out that is causing all of this timing craziness.

One things for sure though.

It isn't a damn pushrod engine causing it.
 
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#15
madmike1157 said:
It isn't a damn pushrod engine causing it.
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I can't disagree on the electronics, but this sht here is the damn truth. I took a 250k mile Lightning short block, tore it down and only honed it, put a sht polish job on the crank, slapped it all back together with the original hardware, and have been beating the damn thing half to death with a sht assed tune and boost peaks of 22 psi.

And it lives. I drove it to work today. Whatever this electronic demon is will get sorted out, but sheesh. I'm impressed with the resilience of the ol' Winzer.
 
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#16
madmike1157 said:
One things for sure though.

It isn't a damn pushrod engine causing it.
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Werd


On a similar note: I've been thinking about going to the trouble of tracking down all the connectors for the ECU harness and building new ones. If anyone has an old harness lying around that hasn't been completely hacked to sh--, give me a shout.
 
#17
Noobz347 said:
Werd


On a similar note: I've been thinking about going to the trouble of tracking down all the connectors for the ECU harness and building new ones. If anyone has an old harness lying around that hasn't been completely hacked to sh--, give me a shout.
Click to expand...
What year I got a harness out of a 91 that I was gonna swap for a hacked up project
 
#18
91 Would be a good one.

I have to look and see what all the differences are for the airbag and clock-spring etc., between the years. jrichker likely has that info on-hand somewhere.
 
#19
Noobz347 said:
91 Would be a good one.

I have to look and see what all the differences are for the airbag and clock-spring etc., between the years. jrichker likely has that info on-hand somewhere.
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It was a stick gt car if that helps
I also have one but it's not complete, don't know where it came from I save some seemingly useless crap that I don't need till after I throw it away, go figure
 
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#20
95BlueStallion said:
And the reliability thing, I think that is hit and miss depending on the car. Really just depends on the life the car has had. My bone stocker started just fine last week in the Iowa cold, idled for about 30 mins with no over heating, surging, anything. Revved it a few times once it was up to temp, and it came right back down to idle smoothly.
Click to expand...
I agree. I believe the reliability of these cars depend a lot on the cars history of its long life. So far from what I've seen is that most people have issues due to hack job wiring, poor DIY modding, short cuts, turbos excessive heat, too much boost, poor DIY tuning jobs, etc. Most reliability issues I've seen are from our inability to leave sh*t alone.

Sooner or later when looking for trouble you're bound to find it. For example just yesterday I decided I'm going to stay away from boost (selling the twin screw). Sometimes I have to protect myself from myself. I do actually like DRIVING my 5.0. However just the other day this guy was telling me about his uber reliable budget friendly daily driven 800hp turbo Mustang while we were feeding Unicorns.
 
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