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Oil Pressure

  • Thread starter Thread starter Butterfinger
  • Start date Start date May 30, 2011

Butterfinger

Member
Aug 11, 2006
74
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Washington
May 30, 2011
#1
  • May 30, 2011
  • #1
Is there a part that allows an aftermarket oil pressure gauge while keeping the factory gauge and light working? Or do I have to fabricate something?
 
T

trlprk

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Nov 25, 2010
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May 30, 2011
#2
  • May 30, 2011
  • #2
you could put a T fitting between the sending unit and the fitting that goes to the block. From the branch side of the T, you could run either an electric or mechanical gauge. That would allow you to run another oil pressure gauge without disturbing your factory one. Im probably gonna do this eventually cause my factory gauge barely registers.
 

Butterfinger

Member
Aug 11, 2006
74
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Washington
May 30, 2011
#3
  • May 30, 2011
  • #3
Does anyone make a T-fitting? I'd hate to screw up making my own and piss away all the oil.
 
T

TokyoJoe

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Mar 25, 2007
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May 30, 2011
#4
  • May 30, 2011
  • #4
not sure if the factory gauge will work on an aftermarket sending unit or not? Maybe someone else can chime in?

Otherwise you can get a brass t fitting at your local hardware store, you can remove the stock piece to take with you to make sure you get the correct thread.
 

jrichker

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#5
  • May 31, 2011
  • #5
Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation..
1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light brown/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light brown/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light brown/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.

How to solder like a pro - Ford Fuel Injection » How To Solder Like a Pro a must read for any automotive wiring job.

Be sure to use a gauge restrictor fitting in the pressure line going to the gauge. The restrictor will prevent all of the engine's oil supply from ending up on the pavement before you can stop it if the gauge line fails. I had a gauge line rupture, and the restrictor fitting saved my engine from serious damage.

 
T

TokyoJoe

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Mar 25, 2007
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May 31, 2011
#6
  • May 31, 2011
  • #6
are you planning to use a mechanical gauge?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#7
  • May 31, 2011
  • #7
Butterfinger said:
Does anyone make a T-fitting? I'd hate to screw up making my own and piss away all the oil.
Click to expand...

Relatively simply. Look on drivers side of engine. Small little bell shaped sender with a single wire just ahread of the headers.

it's all 1/8" NPT. Just remove the sender and put in an extension, and a female tee. Then screw the stock sender in, and the aftermarket sender (mechanical or electric) and call it a day

1/8NPT extension


1/8npt female tee
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,268
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May 31, 2011
#8
  • May 31, 2011
  • #8
If you go to Autozone to their "ricer" aisle, they usually sell these two parts in an overpriced kit together.
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
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May 31, 2011
#9
  • May 31, 2011
  • #9
I drill and tap the factory extension and install there.
 

Butterfinger

Member
Aug 11, 2006
74
1
8
Washington
May 31, 2011
#10
  • May 31, 2011
  • #10
TokyoJoe said:
are you planning to use a mechanical gauge?
Click to expand...

Electrical. Looks like the T-fitting should work fine. What brand sealer works best to seal the threads?
 
T

TokyoJoe

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Mar 25, 2007
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Jun 1, 2011
#11
  • Jun 1, 2011
  • #11
just use the t like an extension also where one sender will be on the very end of the assymbly otherwise you'll have a hard time clearing the block....you'll see what I mean
 

Butterfinger

Member
Aug 11, 2006
74
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8
Washington
Jun 1, 2011
#12
  • Jun 1, 2011
  • #12
Looks like there should be room.

TokyoJoe said:
just use the t like an extension also where one sender will be on the very end of the assymbly otherwise you'll have a hard time clearing the block....you'll see what I mean
Click to expand...

View attachment 66637
 
T

TokyoJoe

New Member
Mar 25, 2007
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Jun 2, 2011
#13
  • Jun 2, 2011
  • #13
Either way, just didnt think if you had 2 sensors on each end of the T (basically a huge T) that you would be able to spin it into the block, but whatever, if it fits
 
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