Progress Thread Sask84gt's 84 GT - Questions and Progress Thread

[Sask84gt]

Hey all,
I’m wanting to remove my info centre on my 1984 mustang gt and put in the 3guage plate from lmr with a water temp, oil pressure and AFR gauge installed. Although I do like the factory look only the low gas light and clock seem to work. I do however want to keep it to put back in if I need to.

Is there a way to keep the cigarette lighter working and take the rest out? Anybody else done this mod and can help a new guy out to get it done? Putting in autometer oil pressure and water temp gauges.
Thanks

 

[Sask84gt]

Wanting to install a autometer aftermarket water temp gauge on my 84 gt. Don’t really want to have a dead gauge in my dash so I bought these hoping I could run 2 off of this t fitting.

Would this work? Run it off my 3/8npt port on my edelbrock performer rpm intake then run the factory and aftermarket sensors on each side? Would the coolant get up there to get an accurate readings? I’ve read of others doing but wanted to get some of your opinions.

Thanks

 

[Noobz347]

I've merged your threads and converted it to a [Progress Thread].

Here you can keep a running catalog for this car.

 

[Sask84gt]

I've merged your threads and converted it to a [Progress Thread].

Here you can keep a running catalog for this car.

Ok thanks, was wondering what happened lol. Guess I should have maybe waited a bit before posing another question. Oh well newb lol

 

[Noobz347]

It is [all] good.

You will likely discover down the road that folks become familiar with your car and mods. It makes diagnosing [new] issues a lot easier when they know what has already been done.

 

[Sask84gt]

So here is what was done for my auto meter afr gauge along with my new oil pressure and water temp gauge. I wanted to keep the factory dash gauges working so after some research went this route.
Added a T fitting and ran 2 oil pressure sending units off the original fitting.

Added a clamp to the radiator hose with a spot for a temp sensor and ran my fan controller to it so I could use original spot on intake for the new water temp sensor.

Here are a couple shot of the wiring of the gauges. Wasn’t to difficult but trying to keep them nice and getting console back in was tricky. Not a lot of room back there. Wired lights in gauges with my factory dash lights so they can dim with everything else. Also replace internal lights on gauges with red leds instead of the plastic red covers.

Overall I think it looks good. Red is a lot more bright in the picture than in person lol. I loved the Info centre for nostalgic looks but it didn’t function right and I wanted more readings than the crappy stock gauges.

 

[LILCBRA]

Looks great! As they probably should've done.....

I hear ya with the LED brightness. I've atill not had my II out at night since I changed mine out, but I'd imagine I may have problems seeing out the windows....

New bright LEDs. Apparently I was wrong, I didn't swap them for LEDs before, I guess I used green incandescents.

Now they all match a little better.

I did the same when I wired my gauge lights, they thankfully dim with the rest of them.

 

[Sask84gt]

Looks great! As they probably should've done.....

I hear ya with the LED brightness. I've atill not had my II out at night since I changed mine out, but I'd imagine I may have problems seeing out the windows....



I did the same when I wired my gauge lights, they thankfully dim with the rest of them.

That green looks awesome! Unfortunately mine aren’t solid color around the dash gauges. Would probably need all new gauges in the dash lol

No I don’t keep it like this haha way too bright!

 

[gkomo]

Do you have a YouTube channel? Swear I saw someone with an 86GT installing those gauges on YouTube and they were cognizant of keeping the color scheme OEM looking.

 

[Sask84gt]

Do you have a YouTube channel? Swear I saw someone with an 86GT installing those gauges on YouTube and they were cognizant of keeping the color scheme OEM looking.

Nope, I should have because of the absolute ton of stuff I’ve done to this car. Also had no idea what I was doing and learned everything from YouTube, Foureyedpride and sites like this. I’m hoping to add all the stuff I’ve done periodically to this thread over the next little bit. Car is a 84.5 gt hatch.

 

[gkomo]

Oh duh, totally missed the 84GT in your name. Whoever the YouTuber I’m thinking of has a car that looks almost identical to yours. Doing good work!

 

[Sask84gt]

Also going back to the wiring of my afr gauge. I realized I may have screwed up a bit with where I tapped into in the fuse box. I used a key on/ accessory fuse so now even if I want to just turn key back to listen to music or something my gauge runs. From what I read it’s not good for your sensor to heat up when car is not running. Anybody have a suggestion to what other fuse in the box I can tap into that would work in my situation? Something that would be on when key is turned forward only?

 

[Sask84gt]

So I removed my distributor awhile ago to get it recurved by a guy I know that does them. I marked where the rotator was before I removed it and marked where it turned to when it came out. I’m trying to install it again and can’t for the life of me get it to go back to right where it was. Oil pump shaft is leaning so I have to unused a screwdriver to center it then try to get it in. It’s close and I can push the rotator back and it lines up but when I let it go it returns to just ahead of where it was before removing it. This is my first time stabbing the distributor. What am I missing?

 

[AeroCoupe]

Pull up on the distributor just enough so it’s very slowly coming up. At the same time you want to turn the rotor counter clockwise with light pressure. You will feel the rotor move as you pull it up and then it will move the direction you want it to go when the distributor gear clears the gear on the cam. If you do it right you will be able to move the rotor one tooth at a time which will get it where you need it.

 

[Sask84gt]

Pull up on the distributor just enough so it’s very slowly coming up. At the same time you want to turn the rotor counter clockwise with light pressure. You will feel the rotor move as you pull it up and then it will move the direction you want it to go when the distributor gear clears the gear on the cam. If you do it right you will be able to move the rotor one tooth at a time which will get it where you need it.

Ok thanks, I will give that a try. If it is off a little like it is would cause issues?

 

[Noobz347]

Ok thanks, I will give that a try. If it is off a little like it is would cause issues?

You will know if it is off when you go to put the timing light on it and can not get it to rotate far enough in the direction that you need it to go.

If that happens, then you need to redo the procedure and move it a tooth or two in the direction you need to go without running into obstacles with the TFI/Vac Can, etc..

 

[Sask84gt]

So that’s exactly what happened. Tried starting at current location and it would start but would not stay running. Turned it clock wise until it would stay running but was still rough. Can’t go any farther now cause vacuum canister is hitting rad hose. So I’m not sure what to do now. Do I set it back at original location and take distributer out and set it back a tooth or do I have to reset engine at top dead centre and start over? This is my first time so I’m new to this.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Just move the distributor back one tooth.

 

[Sask84gt]

Just move the distributor back one tooth.

Do I set it back to original spot and pull or where it is when I couldn’t move it farther?

 

[AeroCoupe]

Right where it is now. Mark where the rotor points on the distributor and mark the base of the distributor and the block so it goes back where it was. When you back it up one tooth you will feel it. Drop it back down, verify the marks on the base and block, and the rotor should be pointing just behind the mark you made for it.