Ok, is there such a thing as a 1/2" spacer for 4 lugs wheels?

G

Gael

Founding Member
Jan 26, 2002
649
1
17
Tucson, AZ
#1
I know I know, I've looked everywhere though, can't find crap. Do I really need to get a custom one done? I don't know how those of you with 10 holes and turbines are fitting wheels/tires on your car without rubbing. My LR tire is not even a millimeter from touching my leaf spring, while the RR tire is slightly further away from it.

LR: http://starshadow.com/~gael/pictures/misc/8-28-04/DSC00027.JPG
http://starshadow.com/~gael/pictures/misc/8-28-04/DSC00026.JPG

RR: http://starshadow.com/~gael/pictures/misc/8-28-04/DSC00024.JPG
http://starshadow.com/~gael/pictures/misc/8-28-04/DSC00025.JPG

The backspacing is just a bit too much. What sucks it the Centerline Autodrags I want have the identical backspacing to the stock fox wheels. I may end up needing to do Weld Draglite's to fit it correctly, since it has a 4.5" backspacing, vs the 4.85" backspacing with the Centerlines and the 10holes/turbines.

So yeah sorry for bringing this up again. And one last question, ok, there are 2 kinds of spacers, the slip on kind, which I have at the moment, and then the ones which seem to bolt on. I was reading around, and I'm even more confused now as to which one is good and which is bad. I'd love to use no spacer, but it may be difficult.

So yeah, thanks for any help/information again.
 
#2
Big tires on little car

My rearend is that way not much room between the tire and the leaf spring not much I can do about it... My tire was really close on one side so I had to unbolt the rearend and push the springs in, till I got it centered...I was thanking I had a 4" back space But I don't.. it's 4 1/2. My tires don't rub just touch the leaf spring when I turn.. 26x10.5x15 M/T ET Streets.. The tires that Im going to run when I get the better rearend are 29X11.5x15W.. but thats will be done when I have lots more $$$$$

you could try to grind out the place where the tire rubs on the leaf spring..

I had a 7/6 spacer on my car at one time it seem to more the tire out just enough for the tire to clear But I don't like running them when I race..
Good luck
 
#3
Whenever I see a wheel spacer or adapter thread I hear this old 'Stones song ....

You don't always get what you want ..

But if you try sometimes, you just might find

You just might find

Whewwww

You get what you NEEeeEED
 
#4
For over two decades it's been the harsh reality of my world that if I want anything other than factory rims I had to change to a bolt pattern that offered a greater selection.

Even then I didn't get what I wanted but I got what I needed.
 
#6
I remember a huge debate a while back about spacers. Wart is zealously against spacers of any form as are a few others on here. Anyhow I believe it was decided that the bolt on spacers are better than the slip on. Jeffnoel used bolt on spacers for the aftermarket rims on his car. I personally haven't used spacers, however I can see how they might be dangerous. You could always drill and wire the lugnuts together to prevent them from turning out if you need a low cost option. The wiring needs to be done properly however... when one lugnut loosens it should tighten the others up. Wiring bolts is used extensively in aircraft and racing applications. Anyhow, just an idea.

d
 
#7
I may possibly have a lead from a guy in Tucson, if not, I'll talk to Cliff about it. I may end up needing to go with Weld Draglites instead of the Centerline Autodrags that I wanted, due to the backspacing stuff.

I know this is a touchy subject for many, but it's that or finding new wheels/tires. Sorry if I anger people but doing such a horrible thing to my car, but I'd like to get it rolling.

I need to measure the backspacing on my current 14" wheels, to try to match that.
 
#9
as much as i disagree with using spacers, many drag racers use them. have you gone that route in your search? you need to go beyond summit and jegs. look to some of the chassis manufacturers. s&w, haas, bickle, bill mitchel might even have them in his catalog. how about wilwood or one of the other brake/ suspesion places.
 
#10
If a guy I know is right, the 10holes/turbine wheels have a backspacing of 4.85". I meant measure the backspacing of my 14" centerline wheels. Someone gave me a neat idea however, it's something he did.

Ok so you know how the slip on spacers are a pain, and don't center, right? what you do is you take rubber hose, like what you'd use for your fuel line, that fits over your lugs (so about a 1/2"?), and cut it to match the length of your spacers, so 1/4", 1/2", etc. You cut that, put the hose over the lugs up against the rear drum, and then slide the spacers over that. It apparently holds the spacers in place very well, and centered. I plan to try this out, since it's an inexpensive method, and apparently popular with some of the drag strip guys.

So we'll see how that goes.
 
#12
kcobra302 said:
as much as i disagree with using spacers, many drag racers use them. have you gone that route in your search? you need to go beyond summit and jegs. look to some of the chassis manufacturers. s&w, haas, bickle, bill mitchel might even have them in his catalog. how about wilwood or one of the other brake/ suspesion places.
Click to expand...

I seriously doubt any reputable racing company is going to carry wheels spacers. They are not legal in any sanction of drag racing. If I knew a guy at the track was using them, I'd report him to tech immediately. Not only is he endangering his own life, but he's endangering the guy in the lane next to him, and any spectators that his car may mow over when the wheel comes off at 100+ mph.

As far as I'm concerned, wheel spacers, no matter how they are constructed, are neither DOT, or track legal. So if you can't legally use them on the street, or on the track, than why use them?

On the flip side of that, as long as the spacer is of a proper quality, and the wheel is torqued right, there's no reason it should fail. After all, most new cars use slip in rotors, and all that is essentially is a spacer between the hub and rim, that happened to have a rotor section on it as well.
 
#13
CobraIILover said:
.....but he's endangering the guy in the lane next to him, and any spectators that his car may mow over when the wheel comes off at 100+ mph.
Click to expand...


And there has never been a loose tire that has bounced into the stands.


As far as I'm concerned, wheel spacers, no matter how they are constructed, are neither DOT, or track legal. So if you can't legally use them on the street, or on the track, than why use them?
Click to expand...


Vanity, and imprudence.


On the flip side of that, as long as the spacer is of a proper quality, and the wheel is torqued right, there's no reason it should fail. After all, most new cars use slip in rotors, and all that is essentially is a spacer between the hub and rim, that happened to have a rotor section on it as well.
Click to expand...

There's lots more to it than putting a piece of metal between the hub and rim.

The rim center is suppose to fit snugly on the raised center, or lip, of the hub. This way load is transferred straight from the rim tothe hub.

Use of spacers reduces and in some cases eliminates this lip. Without the rim/ lip interface all loads are carried by the lugs.

When the rotor or brake drum fits/ slips over the hub the hub is designed to have a lip to provide load carrying.
 
#14
There's lots more to it than putting a piece of metal between the hub and rim. The rim center is suppose to fit snugly on the raised center, or lip, of the hub. This way load is transferred straight from the rim tothe hub. :worship:

Bingo! :nice:
 
#15
Mstng2 said:
There's lots more to it than putting a piece of metal between the hub and rim. The rim center is suppose to fit snugly on the raised center, or lip, of the hub. This way load is transferred straight from the rim tothe hub. :worship:

That's true of most newer cars, but not necessarily all cars. Older mustangs, including II's used lug-centered rims. Look at the back of a stock lacy spoke or 5 hole II rim and you'll see that the center hole is actually angled so as not to have it fit snugly on the axle center. The weight of the car is actually carried by the lugs. That's why spacers are bad. A spacer places the weight carried on the lug out toward its end, increasing the leverage on the lug and causing it to flex slightly.

Adapters solve this problem by solidly connecting the "spacer" to the rim, ssentially making an extra thick one-piece rim. I do think there is a legitimate concern about lug nuts holding the adapter to the hub/axle coming loose, but that can be mitigated by routine inspections.
Click to expand...
 
#16
That's true of most newer cars, but not necessarily all cars. Older mustangs, including II's used lug-centered rims. Look at the back of a stock lacy spoke or 5 hole II rim and you'll see that the center hole is actually angled so as not to have it fit snugly on the axle center. The weight of the car is actually carried by the lugs. [/quote]


Not really.

Take a ruler, measure that bevel. Its about 1/4 inch. Now measure the rear hub center, it's around 1/2 inch. That leaves about 1/4 inch of rim on the hub.

Measure the rotor protrusion, it's about 1". Before you go thnking thats alot remember, it's cast iron, not steel. Cast tends to break before it deflects so the rim should be close to the root.

So even though the rims have a bevel that bevel is no where deep enough to remove the rim center from the protrusion on the hub flange.

Plus, the flange protrusion is machined to be concentric with the axix of rotation. It's not going to change unless an axle gets bent, Can't say that about lug bolts or their holes.



That's why spacers are bad. A spacer places the weight carried on the lug out toward its end, increasing the leverage on the lug and causing it to flex slightly.
Click to expand...

That's why I'll reinterate, spacers tend to place the "weight", and all road forces, on the lug.

You do have a good point on flexing. Ever hear a car slowly drive past , such as in a parking lot, and hear a creak-creak-creak?? Quite often, if not always, it's the rim moving on the hub.

How many flexings can a lug take before failure?

Adapters solve this problem by solidly connecting the "spacer" to the rim, ssentially making an extra thick one-piece rim. I do think there is a legitimate concern about lug nuts holding the adapter to the hub/axle coming loose, but that can be mitigated by routine inspections.
Click to expand...


Adapters create other problems in addition to what I have already written about spacers.


Do us a favor, take a ruler to your rims and hub, tell us what you find.
 
#17
Hi Guys,Here`s my solution :D I had the same problem and also I wanted a posi....In Canada I had no luck finding a posi unit 8 inch....I know I could have baught a cone type auburn but besides$$ I had a friend who installed one and it lasted 2 summers :notnice:

Some of you already know what I did :D solution Fox 8.8 rear from a 1988 ,besides getting posi there is great gear choices..I have 3.73,plus the back spacing problem is solved !!! :) It gives you exactly 1/2 inch extra on each side.Some people told me there is an alignment problem because it is a unit centered and it will give you bad vibes....it is :bs: Mine runs great! As long as you respect your angles when you weld your perches on 3 to 5 deg neg. everything goes perfect and there is only a very minor mod to fit the II cable for the E brake....It is worth it!!I still have the 4 lug design and later if I want to go 5 lugs it will be a joke!!!

3 week ago i installed a t-5 with the B&M short throw shifter with the fox bell with a 10.5 inch Centerforce dual friction.I love to drive the car now ....I really don`t know why I waited so long to change my trany????Anyone needs a c-4 :D
 
#19
jshcobra said:
Do ME a favor, balance your stock mustang wheels on a hub-centric balancer and drive 'em around. Tell me what YOU find.
Click to expand...


I'm sure your trying to share something here ....

Don't be shy
 
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