Ok so Im saving up for a nitrous kit. Have a few questions.

i have always been told wet is safer...and my friend had stock injectors with a 125 shot it worked great.

ok, the wet vs dry thing has seriously been beat to death, but just some food for thought. At the speed air is moving through the intake manifold how does it seem plausible for the fuel to be able to "puddle" up in the intake?

95Mustang302 said:

ok, the wet vs dry thing has seriously been beat to death, but just some food for thought. At the speed air is moving through the intake manifold how does it seem plausible for the fuel to be able to "puddle" up in the intake?

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if you have a window switch set to activate at 3000 rpm's as i do, this should not be a worry . the problem comes when you set up a nitrous system incorrectly.

bill302 said:

if you have a window switch set to activate at 3000 rpm's as i do, this should not be a worry . the problem comes when you set up a nitrous system incorrectly.

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you have a wert kit?? what is your off switch set at 6k?

trav_19 said:

you have a wert kit?? what is your off switch set at 6k?

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yes 6000 rpm's...a window switch is very important if you run without one your on borrowed time...for example my i let my son run it once down the track, he missed a gear it hit the rev limiter but before it hit the rev limiter the window switch turned off the nitrous. if its not set up to cut off like mine is the motor will blow in this situation maybe not the first time but you cant do this too many time without hearing BOOM!!!

here is some good info...to help you decide.
What is nitrous and how does it work?

In its most basic form nitrous is just an oxygen molecule combined with two nitrous molecules. It has no color or smell and will not harm the atmosphere in any way. Nitrous is stored under very high pressure in a liquid form in a tank much like a SCUBA tank. When nitrous is introduced to the normal air and pressure that we breathe it turns into a gas.Contrary to popular belief nitrous by itself will not make any power for an engine. All the nitrous does is give the engine more oxygen to burn fuel with. When the nitrous hits the engine the additional oxygen helps to burn the fuel at a much faster rate, which in turn provides more power to drive a piston down faster in the piston chamber and thus creates more power. The key to the whole equation is fuel and how much power can be harnessed by the consumption of fuel. If this combination is not correct then it will lead to an uncontrolled bust of energy otherwise known as detonation inside the engine. When this happens one can expect to experience burnt pistons, blown rings, and thrown rods. Yes, not good at all!! This is where the problem lies with the bad reputation that nitrous has in the performance community.Now let me make this point very clear. It is not nitrous that destroys engines but the lack of fuel (running lean) and the components of the engine itself that determine when damage will occur.

Types of nitrous injection

• DRY
By far the easiest to understand and use of all four types is the dry injection system. Probably when you think of a street-car running nitrous you are thinking of this form of injection. Companies such as Zex and NOS have made dry systems extremely popular recently. Usually these systems are activated at wide-open throttle (WOT) and are almost as easy to use as just flooring the accelerator. A dry manifold injection system works by simply spraying only nitrous into the intake manifold. At this point, the cars fuel injectors must supply enough fuel to burn the additional oxygen.Now, with fuel being the key to nitrous injection, we can see the biggest disadvantage to having a dry system. Because the cars fuel injectors are supplying the additional fuel the amount of power you can gain from a dry system is going to be limited. As a general rule of thumb you can only get a maximum of a 75 hp shot out of a dry system. Another common problem with dry kits is that they suffer from distribution problems, meaning that there is always the possibility that the cylinders will get an uneven amount of nitrous sprayed into them. This uneven distribution can cause the injection to be less potent. However, dry kits have some good advantages as well. Dry kits are very easy to install and use so that means they are perfect for the nitrous beginner. Also if you opt for a Zex kit you get the benefit of a “computer controlled safety module.” Just be careful and do not let the “safety features” lure you into thinking that you are 100% safe from mishaps.

• WET
In the wet system both fuel and nitrous are mixed together before they are injected. The most common wet system that you will encounter is the “single fogger” set-up but there are also plate kits, direct port injections, and multi-stage injections as well. There are several manufactures of wet nitrous systems, but the main ones are NOS and Nitrous Express. In a typical wet set-up both fuel and nitrous are delivered and separated from each other by solenoids. Once the system is activated both the fuel and nitrous are pumped into jets/nozzles that will mix the fuel and nitrous together before allowing it to flow into the engine. These systems can be either set-up to inject at WOT or at the push of a button that the driver controls.Now although wet nitrous injection does have some special problems (especially the single fogger), it is the best way to experience true nitrous power. Because the mixing of fuel and nitrous is done by the solenoids and jets, you get a more accurate shot and you do not have the limitations on a “safe” shot size like you have in a dry system. Wet systems will allow you to use any size shot of nitrous that you want, just be sure you have taken the necessary precautions with your engine. Another advantage of wet kits over dry is the multiple application methods of which we will discuss a little later. Some of the disadvantages that you can expect to see with wet kits are increased install time and costs, extra engine build up and support modifications cost, and more monitoring and maintenance of your engine.The best thing about the wet systems in my opinion is the ability to lay down some serious power for the good old drag strip! Two of the most common ways to do this is with either a NOS Plate Kit or Direct Port systems.

Dry vs. Wet. Which is better?This question always comes up with every nitrous discussion. The bottom line is what is your ultimate goal? If you are just looking for a small performance increase, working with a small budget, or new to nitrous then the dry system is the best way to go. On the other hand, if you are looking for big nitrous power, building a drag car, or you feel comfortable with nitrous injection and have the money to spend to get the proper support modifications then a wet system is probably for you. If you have any doubts about nitrous at all then the best policy is to wait and decide if it is really what you want to do. If you are unsure about your decision then research some more or ride in a nitrous powered car until you feel sure about your decision. Better safe than sorry if you ask me!
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you will have alot of opinions here but i think the wet kit is the best when properly installed and safer than a dry kit and as stated in other post dry is cheaper with limited power and a wet kit is not cheap to properly install but properly installed you know the fuel and nitrous is there with more power than a dry kit...and to properly install requires in my opinion a filter #1 never run without a filter most kits come with a filter,a purge solenoid and tube some kits come with solenoid and tube and some don't you need to check before buying system,a window switch which will activate nitrous at 3000 rpm's and turn it off at 5800-6000 rpms,a wide open throttle switch that will allow nitrous to activate only at wide open throttle,a fuel pressure cut off switch (adjustable) set at approx 33 psi this will turn nitrous system off if fuel pressure goes below 33 psi and a fuel pressure guage mine is permanetly installed,a bottle warmer with an automatic cutoff pressure switch set at 1050 psi and a pressure guage...all these items need to be wired in with relays i have all this equipment on my system wired in with 2 relays two switches and a push button switch (heater switch and nitrous arm switch and a purge push button switch).it can get expensive. but in my opinion this is what you need to run a nitrous kit safely and efficiently..and in my research before i bought my compucar system i found that only two nitrous companys carry a lifetime warranty that is compucar and nitrous express this is very important when considering a system to buy i bought mine used and i contacted compucar and they informed me that the warranty follows the system from buyer to buyer and that if i have any problems they would replace or repair free of charge if i paid actual shipping costs.

whats the redline on my 94 gt auto? and my 93 gt manual so i know what shut off i need..?

Definitely run a window switch and WOT switch. Makes the whole process fool proof.

trav_19 said:

whats the redline on my 94 gt auto? and my 93 gt manual so i know what shut off i need..?

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My '95 auto shifts all day long at 5600, yours is probably close to that too I would guess.

I kinda dis-agree with the limit on dry setups (and note I say setups not KITS).

Yes in the basic kit form BOTH will have there limits and dry hits this limit sooner.

BOth are limited by the orif. size in the nozzle. For instance one of the fogger nozzles (actually the one I have on my otherwise compucar kit) will run out of room between 150 and 175 levels as that is were the actuall size of the hole limits it too (and why some people say they see little improvement when stepping up over a 150 shot).

Now with my stock compucar nozzle (NOZZLE NOT JETS) I have made the opening larger to get the use of the 175 jets.

On dry setups I have seen/read/been told information about some HAIRY setups well over 175hp some as high as 300-400hp...HOW...they run crazy large inj. so much so they are WAY overkill NA. This is due to some classes only allowing 1 nozzle and 1 stage.

Very good info and in the end I run a wet kit...like posted set up properly and tuned well and used in the proper way both are safe and can make awsome power that leaves you for hours.

trav_19 said:

whats the redline on my 94 gt auto? and my 93 gt manual so i know what shut off i need..?

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i believe the rev limiter is set at 6200-6400 rpm's.to ensure this i reved my engine till it hit the limiter before installing the 6000 rpm module in my window switch it rose above 6000 but i dont remember where exactally i believe it was around 6200-6400 rpm's as i stated above.

Good info in here.

Why do I run a dry kit?

Zex didn't have a wet kit when I bought mine. AGES ago. I never plan to go above the 125 shot. It's plenty for non-forged engine and wanting some longevity out of the engine.

Plus with my new setup... and huge injectors. I can have a tune setup to POUR the fuel to the car. I'll probably never go Wet now.... but if I were starting from scratch... I would buy a wet kit just so I wouldn't have to bump my fuel pressure before I run the 125 shot.

Oh and if you stick with Zex, don't worry about the WOT switch. It's built in and adjustable. You basically hold the pedal where you want it to be set at.

I don't have a window switch... but I drive an automatic car. It's not quite as important. But it's still a good idea.