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Paint and Body Paint on fascia and door trim

  • Thread starter Thread starter 7991LXnSHO
  • Start date Start date Mar 2, 2020

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Mar 2, 2020
#1
  • Mar 2, 2020
  • #1
I need to have some touch up done on my 91 and need some materials advice.
The front bumper cover lost some BIG flakes of paint from gently parking too near the curb at a store. That had several layers of paint, and they popped off all the way to the black urethane.
Also, a piece of the door strip molding has a chip out from another car’s door, and is showing white paint under the vibrant red. I knew the paint job was cheap (but it is rust free!) when I bought the car, and I do not know much about the preparation and materials used. It is a single stage finish, not a base and clear coat.
So - what surface prep should be done to these soft parts, what kind of primer, and is there a flex additive that should be added to the paint? I know a collision shop will most likely want to just spray it quickly, but I do not want paint flakes bigger than my phone screen.
@Davedacarpainter and any other body gurus.
The front bumper cover is going to come off to replace the cracked header (headlight) panel and adjust the fender to hood alignment. So sanding the layers down or replacing the cover might be easier off the car.
It has been a while since I worked at a place that sold and used Sikkens or PPG paints, so my paint knowledge is likely out of date.
 

91TwighlightGT

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 8, 2002
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Mar 2, 2020
#2
  • Mar 2, 2020
  • #2
If you have black urethane, then it means that you have an aftermarket bumper cover.

To be honest, if you had a large area of paint adhesion failure like you are describing (a pic is worth a thousand words in this instance) I would be very hesitant to want to spray over that existing paint, as it could just be poorly bonded altogether. If it were my car, I would probably strip the entire bumper cover with 180 grit sandpaper and re-prime the cover with a good plastic primer and repaint it.

I'd like to see pictures of the bumper and door molding, though.
 

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
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#3
  • Mar 2, 2020
  • #3
Yeah, it would be a lot easier to answer this with a few pics of the damage.
 

Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
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#4
  • Mar 2, 2020
  • #4
Like others have said pictures would help.
Pending those it sounds like you're going to have to take the bumper down to the plastic , paint color match may also be an issue.
I've painted quite a few bumpers over the last few years including all the lowers on my 93GT.
One product that I've had great luck with promoting good adhesion as well sealing the surface is made by Tamco.

DTM Primers & Epoxies

All Primers in the 53xx Series are Now DIRECT TO RUST, not only just DTM Like our clears, we wanted to develop ultra-high-quality foundation primers. Our 5300 series primers boast a true direct to metal resin (same as in our clears) which means it can be used on the entire vehicle. Many others...
tamcopaint.com
I've used it for bumper covers on my kids cars , (they bump into things alot !) and it's help up great, no cracking or peeling.
 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
SN Certified Technician
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Mar 3, 2020
#5
  • Mar 3, 2020
  • #5
Several layers of paint on the front bumper?

It might be better to strip the front bumper completely.

I’ve been out of touch here lately, who’ll be doing the work on the bumper and molding? Are you intending to do it?

If you want, I can give you a call and talk you through whatever way you want to go about fixing the problem. Post a picture of the peeling paint for me too, if you would.
 
Reactions: RaggedGT and Shakerhood

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,387
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Kearney, NE
Mar 6, 2020
#6
  • Mar 6, 2020
  • #6
My car has breen in tight winter storage. So a pic was not available. It might be escaping out on early good weather release tomorrow. I already plan on the old paint getting stripped down, preferably with a power sander as much as space allows by surface prep, I should have specified what degreaser is best now and what flex, adhesion promoter or special primer to use.

So the question is what primer and what paint additive need to be used for best adhesion and paint flex on stripped soft parts like the bumper cover and door strip? I did not think a better thsn Masco paint adhesion question would require pictures, but I will see if I can oblige and provide visual stimulus. Before we chat further about it. It will be a good excuse to get the car out.

B
Davedacarpainter said:
Several layers of paint on the front bumper?

It might be better to strip the front bumper completely.

I’ve been out of touch here lately, who’ll be doing the work on the bumper and molding? Are you intending to do it?

If you want, I can give you a call and talk you through whatever way you want to go about fixing the problem. Post a picture of the peeling paint for me too, if you would.
Click to expand...
 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
SN Certified Technician
Nov 28, 2015
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Mar 6, 2020
#7
  • Mar 6, 2020
  • #7
7991LXnSHO said:
My car has breen in tight winter storage. So a pic was not available. It might be escaping out on early good weather release tomorrow. I already plan on the old paint getting stripped down, preferably with a power sander as much as space allows by surface prep, I should have specified what degreaser is best now and what flex, adhesion promoter or special primer to use.

So the question is what primer and what paint additive need to be used for best adhesion and paint flex on stripped soft parts like the bumper cover and door strip? I did not think a better thsn Masco paint adhesion question would require pictures, but I will see if I can oblige and provide visual stimulus. Before we chat further about it. It will be a good excuse to get the car out.

B
Click to expand...
Just my two cents, but I’d get someone to soda blast it. It makes life so much easier.

Adhesion promoter? Bully Dog works great. Any of the major paint manufacturers will have their own version too. Basically the same chemistry amongst them.

What paint system do you intend to use for primer and refinish? The major lines all add flex additive to their primers and clears now days.

A more value line of paint may need you to add a separate flex additive.

If you’re worried that it’s not enough flex, you can get a separate additive from any paint manufacturer.

If you strip it down to the plastic, use a non static wax and grease remover. Otherwise any water based wax and grease remover is good.
 
Reactions: General karthief

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,387
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Kearney, NE
Mar 7, 2020
#8
  • Mar 7, 2020
  • #8
Here are two shots from under the front license plate, and one of the driver’s door bumper strip molding.
The single stage enamel (?) paint did not flex much or stick as well as I think it should have. I hope it sticks to the metal when a few small dings get PDR.
Also, I know the Vibrant Red was not the red the car came with, and some front panels were involved with a Venison incident. (It was mild enough that it still had a clean title.) The radiator core support looks good. I do not know why they left the headlight panel broken behind the bumper cover. New ones are less than $100, and I have a beautiful OEM take out one for much less.
 

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