Painting / Hiding wires??

Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005

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Dec 14, 2007

#21

• Dec 14, 2007

• #21

that was right after the first time i sprayed the bay. have cleaned it up a little since then and i'll get better after pics tomorrow.

 

1995COBRA

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Dec 14, 2007

#22

• Dec 14, 2007

• #22

I don't know about the bedlinder paint..., but I think when it gets hot, that it would start getting sticky, kinda like the undercoating . Never the less, I would use a high gloss VHT paint, it gives it more of a shine.

 

gcomfx.com

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Dec 14, 2007

#23

• Dec 14, 2007

• #23

Bed liner paint better not get sticky.... it's used in the bed of trucks for durability.

 

Blackened302

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Dec 14, 2007

#24

• Dec 14, 2007

• #24

i think it's a matter of preference. i saw another stang that used the same stuff and i liked how it looked flat rather than gloss in the engine bay. gives it more of an industrial look.

 

1995COBRA

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Dec 15, 2007

#25

• Dec 15, 2007

• #25

gcomfx.com said:

Bed liner paint better not get sticky.... it's used in the bed of trucks for durability.

Click to expand...

Yes, but the engine bay gets hotter than the bed. Reason is because I have seen it happen with undercoating that is why I ask !

 

Blackened302

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Dec 16, 2007

#26

• Dec 16, 2007

• #26

really dirty after installing the fox valve covers today, but here are the pics:

 

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Adam95GT

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Aug 14, 2006

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Dec 16, 2007

#27

• Dec 16, 2007

• #27

not 2 bad

 

Blackened302

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Dec 16, 2007

#28

• Dec 16, 2007

• #28

yeah... the dirtyness doesn't help, and it looks better in person. all in all, after only spending about $16, i'm happy with it.

 

gcomfx.com

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Dec 17, 2007

#29

• Dec 17, 2007

• #29

1995COBRA said:

Yes, but the engine bay gets hotter than the bed. Reason is because I have seen it happen with undercoating that is why I ask !

Click to expand...

Sorry if I miscommunicated. I wasn't laughing at you, I was laughing at the horror of if the stuff behaved like the undercoating. The can spray undercoating never hardens and stays a bit "rubbery" if you will. My fog light housings that I coated still have a rubbery flex to them. Thus why they also started leaking again after a few years.

I'm still not sure on what route I'll take, but I won't make a decision until after I have the engine out and the k-member out of the car. Then I might do a test down in the transmission area to see how I like it.

 

95opal

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Nov 16, 2004

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Dec 17, 2007

#30

• Dec 17, 2007

• #30

I would say if you have a black car it might look OK.

But gcomfx.com, I think you would be better off going w/ the factory color. JMHO

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

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Dec 17, 2007

#31

• Dec 17, 2007

• #31

95opal said:

I would say if you have a black car it might look OK.

But gcomfx.com, I think you would be better off going w/ the factory color. JMHO

Click to expand...

+1

just make sure you prep it very well

 

gcomfx.com

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Dec 17, 2007

#32

• Dec 17, 2007

• #32

But that's the thing.... I don't think I could paint it factory and do a good job. I would have to pay someone else. I don't have the funds for that. Nor do I want to try and borrow a trailer to take it to a body shop and then get it home.

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

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Dec 17, 2007

#33

• Dec 17, 2007

• #33

rattle can it

 

95opal

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Dec 17, 2007

#34

• Dec 17, 2007

• #34

urban96 said:

rattle can it

Click to expand...

+1

 

gcomfx.com

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Dec 17, 2007

#35

• Dec 17, 2007

• #35

I guess I need an education on this LOL - can I get factory colors in a rattle can? And will I need to clear it to match? How much prep are we talking? I don't think I can get a pressure washer to my place. No access to a water hose hook up at the town houses which is LAME.

Hope I haven't officially hijacked this thread.

 

95opal

5 Year Member

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Dec 17, 2007

#36

• Dec 17, 2007

• #36

If you go to an auto paint store they should be able to mix factory paint in a rattle can for ya. Im not sure on the clear that you could ask them about.

As far as prep goes I used some $.99 cans of brake cleaner to get the heavy crap off. Engine degresser or the likes would help too. Than its a matter of scuffing the paint and shooting it.

 

gcomfx.com

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Dec 17, 2007

#37

• Dec 17, 2007

• #37

I wonder how much work it would be to get a pint of paint and shoot it with my air compressor setup? I know NOTHING about all the thinners/fillers and what have you about paint.

 

J

Juggalo95

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May 27, 2007

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Dec 17, 2007

#38

• Dec 17, 2007

• #38

I spray engine bays all day long at work..however I work at a collision shop...thats my best advice is to use real paint...you could just use base coat

 

Adam95GT

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Dec 18, 2007

#39

• Dec 18, 2007

• #39

yea i was just going to do black... because im planning on getting my car painted a candy orange or black... so i figured either way it would look ok... i was just going to use that flat black header paint or bed liner paint...

 

J

Juggalo95

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Dec 18, 2007

#40

• Dec 18, 2007

• #40

i still wouldnt recoomend aerosol paint however it sounds like your set on that so ill give ya my best advice on preping it....maybe pressure wash the engine bay since engines out right? Get wax and grease remover and a rag..clean that crap really good especially in nooks and crannys and on seam sealer. Maybe get a toothbrush to get dirt out? Use a 3m red scuff pad dry and scuff everything or if your really picky and have time 500 grit wetsand the engine compartment but red scuff dry will work...wax and grease remover on the surafaces to be painted...now paint..you could spray sealer down then your black header paint if you wish.