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bonestock87 · Sep 13, 2011

Still at it huh? By now my wife would have found me giggling and rocking back in forth in a lawn chair, sitting next to my car while it's fully engulfed in flames.

Wish I was local to you, in sorting out my bugs on the turbo swap I had a friend loan me a $3k Snap-On brand tester. That thing checks everything! Plugs in to the test port that's mounted on the back side of the driver side shock tower. I'd say we could pin something down with that beast.

All of my issues were vacuum related. Keep us posted!

TripleBlk · Sep 14, 2011

Never say enough is enough

It's really tough to resist the temptation to set this car afire !, Heh.

Today, we pulled the connector on the ICM and checked pins 2 and 4 (CID and PIP from the cranksensor respectively) while cranking the starter.

Set multimeter to A/C - saw voltage on the CID (cylinder identification) but nothing on the PIP (pin 4) while cranking. Not sure if this is a valid test.

Looks as if a trip to the local salvage yard is in order. Guy there says he "has a ton" of rangers and 1 or 2 Mustangs. Get this - we have to wear shoes to get in the yard - no sandals or flip flops. High class salvage operation, eh ?

TripleBlk · Sep 16, 2011

Hey FoMoCo !!

Why design in a crank sensor without means to test , without documentation, without a reasonable part replacement cost ? So this part might be the part that's causing our car not to start ? I can put up with some STUPID design decisions (and this IS a stupid design), but give people a break and AT LEAST THROW SOME MEANINGFUL code. Any reason for hundreds of 2.3L Rangers in the junkyard ? /rant

bonestock87 · Sep 18, 2011

Trpblk...just read your PM the other day. Im still learning this new droid, my replies didn't take.... as soon as I get a chance this week you'll have a crank sensor headed your way. Been closing out the fiscal year at work, 2 girls in soccer,etc, etc...

TripleBlk · Sep 20, 2011

Appreciated

Thanks (again), Bonestock87 !!

BTW , in my research on the web I came across a video of a man testing his carnk sensor (from a Ranger). This guy had a well-equipped workbench - oscilloscope, power supply, etc. He had to destroy the connector to test but he did, with a "ferrous" feeler gauge, and in his case , the sensor was still working.

TripleBlk · Sep 26, 2011

IT. IS ALIVE !!

Mustang fired up last night !

The "dangling ICM" was finally screwed into the intake manual (after some arguments between the two "mechanics" working this project) I prevailed in my argument, after finding some obscure info on the web concerning the IC and its grounding.

Also, the wiring diagram on Autozone's site shows this - the case provides a ground for the ignition control module. The "Green Book" (Ford's official electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual) does not indicate this tidbit.

The "EBay" CCRM solved the constant operation of the cooling fan side effect. The car is running with a spare PCM. We tried several, all used. No codes were ever thrown except "111".

Now, for some tuning !

Thanks to all who helped/replied, especially bonestock87, who stepped up to help a fellow Stanger and provided advice and free parts.

bonestock87 · Sep 26, 2011

Excellent work and way to stay with it to the end! Not that I would have thought to say "there's your problem" had you told us the ICM wasn't being bolted to the intake in your tests, but dang dude!

Hey I was glad I had some spare parts to send you. I operate under the Golden Rule, because I'm ALWAYS in need of help with something.

TripleBlk · Sep 27, 2011

Blame Ford

Thanks for the kind words, bonestock87 !! And the invaluable help.

But, there is NOTHING in the "literature", and no info on this site, for that matter, that the ICM has to be grounded to the intake manifold. In my opinion , the fact that the ICM is bolted there is a serious design flaw, and probably explains the hundreds of 2.3 Rangers in the junkyard.

Well , I just hope this thread can help someone else who's having issues.

bonestock87 · Sep 28, 2011

Did you remember to put a nice smathering of dielectric grease all over the back side of the ICM? That's very important!

TripleBlk · Sep 28, 2011

The right stuff

Even better - I bought a tube of computer "heat sink compound" (very expensive) and put a light coat on the ICM. The original had a whitish compound on it, which resembled what I've seen on computer CPU's.

I think dialectric grease would have worked just as well. We used that for the plug and coil boots.

bonestock87 · Sep 29, 2011

Even better - I bought a tube of computer "heat sink compound" (very expensive) and put a light coat on the ICM. The original had a whitish compound on it, which resembled what I've seen on computer CPU's.

Now that I think about it, I'm not sure dielectric grease is the right thing to use. I knew I used some sort of electrical grease when I installed a new ICM a little while back. You definitely used the right stuff. For all the kiddies at home listening in ...... use the Heat Sink Compound!

glowstang93 · Oct 23, 2011

Glad you got it running. The icm and coil packs seem to be the places to go first on starting or running issues. Usually the tach will not register right when the icm starts going out also.

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