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Pass Cylinder Balance Test, now what?

  • Thread starter Thread starter earleys94gt
  • Start date Start date Mar 17, 2008

earleys94gt

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
1,223
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49
Ashley, Ohio
Mar 17, 2008
#1
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #1
Some of you may know that ever since I put new heads and a cam in my car, I have been burning oil; both on start-up and at WOT. I always thought it was my piston rings, so to check I did a Cylinder Balance Test with my new Innova 3145 code scanner.

I did this right after I drove home, so the car was up to operating temprature. I also, prior to doing the test, performed a KOEO and KOER test. I got a pass code on both the KOEO and KOER self-tests. So I move on to the balance test, almost sure I will find something.

It took a few minutes to go through the test. The test is done, for those who don't have this scanner, by shutting off fuel(cutting power to injectors) and monitoring the RPM changes(drop). Based on that information, the computer determines if all the cylinders are contributing equall(for proper operation), and to see if any cylinders are only partially or not contributing at all. My car was blowing smoke the whole time out the exhaust(blue smoke, oil) and I got a pass code!

At this point, I am not going to treat this like Gospel, but to me this means that my rings are not bad, or atleast not bad enough to fail the test. So what could my burning oil be???? Valve stem seals, a gasket??? I am pulling my hair out
Sorry for the long post.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Mar 17, 2008
#2
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #2
It could still be rings. The CBT isn't the end all, be all test, but can give a good indication of a single cylinder being a problem. Running compression and leakdown tests would probably still be your best bet to isolate any problem cylinders. How old is your PCV valve? A really gummed up PCV will allow oil through and into the upper plenum where it gets into the combustion chambers. Any of your plugs look particularly dirty and covered with carbon deposits, but not yet fouled? It could also be valve seals, but it appears, at least according to your sig, that your heads are fairly recent in comparison to the shortblock? I wouldn't rule the seals out just yet, but I'd look elsewhere before tearing down and refreshing the heads.
 

Vipersix

Founding Member
Feb 25, 2001
434
0
0
Clarksville, TN
Mar 17, 2008
#3
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #3
PCV. First thing I would look at.

Ditto on the leakdown test. It cannot be beat for accuracy.

If you feel froggy, take your intake off and look in the ports. If they're oily you've just eliminated the cylinder walls and piston rings.
 

earleys94gt

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
1,223
16
49
Ashley, Ohio
Mar 17, 2008
#4
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #4
I replaced the PCV valve when the new heads were put on, so about 5 months ago. The old one was pretty crappy looking, but I will check the new one.

I have also looked at the plugs, when I first noticed the problem. All the plugs were a greyish- brown color except for cylinders #3 & 7, those plugs were WHITE.
I did find it odd that it was those two, since they are opposite one another on the engine. Maybe I'll check the plugs again. I will have to see about doing a leakdown test at work, soon I hope...
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Mar 17, 2008
#5
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #5
What does your new set-up have in terms of internal baffling for the PCV?
 

earleys94gt

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
1,223
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49
Ashley, Ohio
Mar 17, 2008
#6
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #6
HISSIN50 said:
What does your new set-up have in terms of internal baffling for the PCV?
Click to expand...
What exactly do you mean? The heads just have bigger valves, cam is the Steeda 19, intake is stock. I'm still a noob on most engine stuff...

On a side note, I was just looking in the 5.0 section. There was a thread where the poster was having similar issues as me. Someone said that it could be poor/wrong valvetrain geometry. I have stock length pushrods with the Steeda 19. Could this maybe my problem?
 

earleys94gt

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
1,223
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49
Ashley, Ohio
Mar 17, 2008
#7
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #7
Well, I just checked my PCV filter and it was clean as when I bought it. The hose looked like it had seen better days though.

I will still have to try and get a leakdown down soon.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Mar 17, 2008
#8
  • Mar 17, 2008
  • #8
I just wanted to make sure you had the baffle for the PCV in place. It's inside the intake and keeps raw oil from being slung into the PCV directly. Since your PCV breather (the mesh thing) is clean, that suggests you're ok. It was worth asking though because if that baffle was missing (it's been an issue for some in the past), it'll eat oil like nothing.



The leakdown test Matt and others suggested is good. If you have an air compressor (for air tools) you can rig up your own manifold and do some testing that way. This route can be pretty cheap to piece together.
 

earleys94gt

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
1,223
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49
Ashley, Ohio
Mar 18, 2008
#9
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #9
HISSIN50 said:
I just wanted to make sure you had the baffle for the PCV in place. It's inside the intake and keeps raw oil from being slung into the PCV directly. Since your PCV breather (the mesh thing) is clean, that suggests you're ok. It was worth asking though because if that baffle was missing (it's been an issue for some in the past), it'll eat oil like nothing.
Click to expand...
Ah, I see now. Yes, the mesh 'filter' was clean. The only thing I did notice that might be odd, was the lower intake, after I removed the mesh piece, you could see oil residue on the sides. I assume this is normal

I am going to ask my Service Manager today when I am going to be able to get a leakdown test done. I just want to find out what my problem is so I know what I need to repair/replace. Thanks for all your help guys!!!
 

earleys94gt

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
1,223
16
49
Ashley, Ohio
Mar 20, 2008
#10
  • Mar 20, 2008
  • #10
I finally got a compression test done, results are as follows...this was done by a tech. at my work, and this is what is written on the R.O...
1- 125 5- 130
2- 130 6- 125
3- 120 7- 125
4- 130 8- 125
Spec is 135-250 @ 75%.

The end result is all of my cylinders are below 135, which is the minimum spec. Looks like I am going to start looking for either a remaned or aftermarket shortblock Any suggestions guys???
 

earleys94gt

Active Member
Aug 31, 2003
1,223
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49
Ashley, Ohio
Mar 21, 2008
#11
  • Mar 21, 2008
  • #11
bump
 
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