Pass Side Window Doesn't Work From The Driver's Side

maybe use a temporary jumper wire from side to side to troubleshoot, then once you know which wire isn't working just run a new one?

Dude it is for sure the qx harness! I'd bet money on it! If you slide the boot back you'll see the broken wires clear as day... You shouldn't even have to take the door pad or any trim off. It's gonna be right in the middle between the door and the a pillar.

I don't understand why you bought a "one touch" switch. The 2004 already has "one touch" down wired through the GEM.

On the master window switch pin #13 (WH/BK), confirm that when the switch is moved to the down position with the key on that you see +12 volts.

On pin #6 (TN/LB), confirm that you see +12 volts with the switch in the UP position. For both tests, make sure to use a known good ground.

With the key off, measure the resistance from the master window switch pin# 7 and 12 (BK) back to battery negative. Should be low. Post.

If all of the above measurements are good, then the switch is basically working. The problem is in the GEM or wiring.

It might be possible to bypass the GEM. However, I would never recommend doing this without a full set of wiring diagrams at your fingertips. If you do not have a set, I maybe able to help. PM if interested.

twogts4us said:

I am at a loss... I just can't imagine a busted wire in this car. How in the world would that happen? This car has been extremely well maintained, always garaged, never hacked on...how does a wire just break?

Click to expand...

It's all about metal fatique. It's the same basic reason why a paperclip will snap if you flex it back and forth enough. Every time you open and close the door the wiring between the moving door and stationary pillar flexes. Over 8 years of use it's quite possible that you'll flex the wiring enough times such that something breaks.

If the wire breaks under the insulation it may be quite difficult to see. It may also make intermittent connections causing phantom work/not work episodes.

Sadly, I think my car has suffered this too. The interior light doesn't come on anymore when the driver's door is open and I suspect a wiring problem (I've replaced the switch inside the door to no avail...)

Obviously few cars suffer this problem so wires breaking between body components suggest a fundamental design flaw on Ford's part. Perhaps poor routing of the wiring, not enough slack and even a failure to validate the design to ensure that five or ten years out people wouldn't be trying to fix stupid sh1t like this.

If you think you got a bad switch I've got an OEM passenger switch laying around for my Cobra

twogts4us i would almost be willing to bet its broken wires in the boot in the door jam, we bought a 96 cobra brand new and the car didnt even have 30k miles on it when i noticed one day the theft light was coming on when i opened the door, i didnt think nothing of it, then about a year later the interior light wouldnt come on with the drivers door, thats when i flew into action and sure enough there were multiple wires broken in there so i fixed them, so about six or so years go by and we dont drive the car a tremendous amount, i go to get in it again and bam same things all over again, no interior lights or theft light and if the car sat for more than a week at a time it would kill the battery, so i had to fix it again, so sorry to be so long winded about this but just goes to show you that you dont have to have alot of miles or abuse on the car to have those wires to break in there! its just a bad design if you ask me

How to check your window switch wires for breaks or poor connections.

Remove the passenger-side door lock / window trim panel.
Remove 2 screws and disconnect the connector from the passenger-side window switch.
The window switch connector has the following wire colors:
Yellow with red stripe - window motor
Red with yellow stripe - window motor
Pink - Accessory feed (+12V** with key in Acc / On / Run position)
White with yellow stripe - from Driver-side passenger window Down switch
Tan with blue stripe - from Driver-side passenger window Up switch

** +12V means battery voltage, which is typically 12V to 13V with engine not running.

Connect your voltmeter Negative probe to a good ground, The metal under the door armrest is usually not at ground.
Set the meter to measure DC Volts.

(1) Turn the key to On or Acc, so the power windows are active.

(2) Push the voltmeter + probe into the connector terminal connected to the Pink wire. It should read +12V. If not, you either do not have a good ground connection to the meter Negative probe, or the key is actually off.

(3) Next, probe the White/yellow and Tan/blue wire terminals; both should read zero. Record your readings.

(4) Next, have a friend/helper/accomplice hold the Driver-side passenger window switch in the UP position while you again probe the White/yellow and Tan/blue wire terminals.
White/yellow terminal should read +12V and Tan/blue terminal should read zero. Record your readings.

(5) Repeat step (4) with the Driver-side passenger window switch held in the Down position.
White/yellow terminal should read zero and Tan/blue terminal should read +12V. Record your readings.

Post all of your results if not all readings are correct.

If all readings are correct, it may mean a poor/damaged/corroded connection exists. Proceed to this sequence of tests:

(7) Turn Off the key and remove it entirely.

(8) Set the meter to read resistance (lowest available resistance scale). Touch the + probe to a ground and note the reading (should be close to zero ohms).

(9) Probe the White/yellow and Tan/blue wire terminals; both should read nearly the same as step (8). Record your readings.

(10) Repeat step (9) while a helper opens and closes each door to flex the harness. The readings should remain fairly steady as the door moves.

Post your results.

I feel youre pain partner, I have the same problem. Can roll it down from drivers side but not up, hope you get it figured out. I hardly drive mine anymore so its not so annoying to me.