• Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Passenger floor pan

  • Thread starter Thread starter killer medic
  • Start date Start date Feb 28, 2006

killer medic

Member
Mar 30, 2005
60
0
6
West Palm Beach, FL.
Feb 28, 2006
#1
  • Feb 28, 2006
  • #1
How difficult is it to replace a passenger side floor pan on your own, considering that you have never done body work before? Does it truly take know-how, or more like pateince? Any advice???
 

tos

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2001
896
68
59
Cincinnati Ohio
Mar 3, 2006
#2
  • Mar 3, 2006
  • #2
It takes both but dont shy away if you've never done it before. If only the front section before the seat platform needs replaced then that is easier than say a full floor replacement. Do you have a body saw, Spot weld cutter or a mig or wire feed welder? First check under the car for obstructions that could get damaged when cutting, I.E. speedo cable, fuel lines, brake lines etc... If the floor is in good shape just in front of the seat platform then I would cut there about an inch forward of the platform flange. The best thing to do is lay your replacement panel in as best you can and trace around it. Take it out and cut leaving about an inch or more for overlap of your new panel (trimming excess later). You will have to drill out several spot welds (or grind them, Or air chisel) at the inner rocker panel and on the floor where it is spot welded to the front frame rail. Grind everything clean and smooth and put your panel back in. I like to use drill tipped sheet metal screws and fasten the new panel down to the inner rocker first then the frame rail and then all around the sides. It will take some fitting and trimming. Then I retrace and mark for final trimming (not always final though). Then mark your panel from underneath where the frame rail will be so you can drill small holes for welding. I also have a air powered hole punch that I will go around the new panel edge about every inch and punch holes. This is the easiest way to weld in the new piece. Reinstall the new piece with your screws making sure it lays flat against the frame rail ant the rosette weld all the holes. Remove screws and weld those holes. grind welds, prime and paint.
 

WORTH

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 18, 2002
2,166
44
98
Cape Cod, Ma.
Mar 3, 2006
#3
  • Mar 3, 2006
  • #3
How bad is the floor? can it be patched or does it need a full panel? The new pieces will have to be welded in to do it right, do you have access to a mig?

If you ever intend to learn how to do metal work, the floor is the best place to learn, whatever you do it WONT SHOW, so if you hack it up a bit it wont matter much. to do sheetmetal work you only need about a 100 amp mig, and they are pretty cheap.
 

killer medic

Member
Mar 30, 2005
60
0
6
West Palm Beach, FL.
Mar 3, 2006
#4
  • Mar 3, 2006
  • #4
Is it worth buying a mig welder or should just rent one? I only need to replace the front passenger side and the left rear trunk panel. Is that difficult as well?
 
D

danny clemens

Member
May 4, 2005
728
0
16
Mar 3, 2006
#5
  • Mar 3, 2006
  • #5
A mig welder is worth the investment. I use mine on cars and different things around the house. I wouldn't be without one.
 

tos

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2001
896
68
59
Cincinnati Ohio
Mar 4, 2006
#6
  • Mar 4, 2006
  • #6
killer medic said:
Is it worth buying a mig welder or should just rent one? I only need to replace the front passenger side and the left rear trunk panel. Is that difficult as well?
Click to expand...

It depends on what you want to do in the future. I do alot of auto and machine work so I use mine all the time. If thats all you'll be doing then maybe a friend has one or you could rent. It will cast about three bills for a decent one and they go as high as you want. I have a Lincoln 175 and it cost $450.00 new. Maybe look for a used one. They definately pay for themselves if you compare the labor charges for somebody to a job like that.
 

WORTH

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 18, 2002
2,166
44
98
Cape Cod, Ma.
Mar 4, 2006
#7
  • Mar 4, 2006
  • #7
tos said:
It depends on what you want to do in the future. I do alot of auto and machine work so I use mine all the time. If thats all you'll be doing then maybe a friend has one or you could rent. It will cast about three bills for a decent one and they go as high as you want. I have a Lincoln 175 and it cost $450.00 new. Maybe look for a used one. They definately pay for themselves if you compare the labor charges for somebody to a job like that.
Click to expand...

You can get away with a 100 amp on the unibody cars, I have an old 100 amp lincoln I used on the Stang restoration, but it wouldn't handle the frame work on the 46 pickup so I bought a 175. I actually like the 100 amp better so I use it on all the thin stuff.
 

brtnstrns

Member
Dec 19, 2003
606
11
19
Lewisville, TX
Mar 4, 2006
#8
  • Mar 4, 2006
  • #8
I replaced both of my full floor pans and the seat risers with just my dad and i. We just rended a MIG welder and bought a cutting wheel. Its actually kinda simple. I've never welded or cut any metal in my life before that. But like they said its the floor and no one will see what it looks like. I'm sure some good welders will spot weld it into place but we just welded it all around. Although it may not look perfect the floor sure isnt going anywhere. But yeah welding the floor was the first welding I've ever done. its really not that hard, it only took us about a week to cut out and replace the floor pans. Then after that we did the tail panel which was easier since we had gotten a few hours of experience. But yeah i was only like 16 when we did this and it was no problem at all so I'd say its relaly not a big deal...just do it yourself
 
A

almo247

New Member
Jun 30, 2007
7
0
2
Bay Minette, AL
Jun 30, 2007
#9
  • Jun 30, 2007
  • #9
tos said:
It takes both but dont shy away if you've never done it before. If only the front section before the seat platform needs replaced then that is easier than say a full floor replacement. Do you have a body saw, Spot weld cutter or a mig or wire feed welder? First check under the car for obstructions that could get damaged when cutting, I.E. speedo cable, fuel lines, brake lines etc... If the floor is in good shape just in front of the seat platform then I would cut there about an inch forward of the platform flange. The best thing to do is lay your replacement panel in as best you can and trace around it. Take it out and cut leaving about an inch or more for overlap of your new panel (trimming excess later). You will have to drill out several spot welds (or grind them, Or air chisel) at the inner rocker panel and on the floor where it is spot welded to the front frame rail. Grind everything clean and smooth and put your panel back in. I like to use drill tipped sheet metal screws and fasten the new panel down to the inner rocker first then the frame rail and then all around the sides. It will take some fitting and trimming. Then I retrace and mark for final trimming (not always final though). Then mark your panel from underneath where the frame rail will be so you can drill small holes for welding. I also have a air powered hole punch that I will go around the new panel edge about every inch and punch holes. This is the easiest way to weld in the new piece. Reinstall the new piece with your screws making sure it lays flat against the frame rail ant the rosette weld all the holes. Remove screws and weld those holes. grind welds, prime and paint.
Click to expand...
I'm new to the forum today. Going to tackle floor pan replacement on my '67 mustang convertible. I read your post and have a question. Where on the inner rocker panel are the spot-welds you refer to for removal? The only ones I see are the ones that attach the full length seat riser platform to the inner panel. Would appreciate any help.
 

Bosscat

Founding Member
Sep 30, 1999
1,265
0
0
England
Jul 1, 2007
#10
  • Jul 1, 2007
  • #10
I just cut my driver's side floor out, should I seem weld any part of the panel? Or like is mentioned, drill some small holes (what size) and mig them? With a saw-za(sp), hand chisel, and a cutting wheel it took my about 4 hours to get everything out and cut perfect. I talked the wife into a plasma cutter, that will make the other side go a lot quicker.

Do you overlap welp the floor pan on the tunnel, that is were I thought I might have to run a complete bead?
 

Bosscat

Founding Member
Sep 30, 1999
1,265
0
0
England
Jul 1, 2007
#11
  • Jul 1, 2007
  • #11
I just bought a Lincoln 190Pro off of ebay for $475 shipped, great deal. Do you guys have to use CO2, or can you get by with a flux core? When I do the body panels I probaly will have to break down and buy some CO2.
 

Bosscat

Founding Member
Sep 30, 1999
1,265
0
0
England
Jul 1, 2007
#12
  • Jul 1, 2007
  • #12
Seam weld like this, is it needed?

 

Bosscat

Founding Member
Sep 30, 1999
1,265
0
0
England
Jul 1, 2007
#13
  • Jul 1, 2007
  • #13
I just found this.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0411_pan_replace/photo_30.html
 
L

Lost 65 Owner

New Member
Jun 29, 2007
4
0
0
Jul 1, 2007
#14
  • Jul 1, 2007
  • #14
That's a great link Bosscat. Replacing the framerails looks like a good bit of work.
 
L

Lost 65 Owner

New Member
Jun 29, 2007
4
0
0
Jul 1, 2007
#15
  • Jul 1, 2007
  • #15
I was looking around for Mig Welders and found this one.


Industrial 135 AMP Flux - MIG Welder - 110-Volt - Gas/No Gas - $199

SPECIFICATIONS: welding current: 25-95A, duty cycle: 20% @ 75A, power consumption: 120-VAC/60Hz, 19 Amps, ground cable: 6-ft 8AWG single insulation, torch cable: 6-ft 8AWG single insulation, power cord: UL-listed 3-core double-insulated 14AWG, thermal overload: both settings; 10 min. shutdown, 3 min. back on with light, welder tip: 0.023" - 0.040", wire size: 0.023" - 0.035", spool size: 4" diameter, input capacity 2kVA, insulation class: F, fuse: 20 Amp. Overall dimensions: 22"L x 10"W x 13"H, 58.4 lbs. Shipping weight 64 lbs, ships UPS 3-5 day delivery. One-year warranty and Satisfaction Guarantee from Jack's Tool Shed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Engine 302 oil leak when running
  • AlexM556
  • Sep 8, 2026
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
  • 2
Replies
29
Views
877
Classic Mustang Specific Tech Tuesday at 7:51 AM
AlexM556
A
L
Electrical problems with passenger side downstream o2 sensor
  • Lexiii12
  • Sep 14, 2026
  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
106
2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk- Sep 14, 2026
Lexiii12
L
B
SOLD 1986 Mercury Capri 5.0 5-speed
  • blackmerc
  • Jul 29, 2026
  • Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93)
Replies
16
Views
892
Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93) Aug 24, 2026
General karthief
Who the hell puts the wrong spark plugs in a 3.8L?
  • snowstang
  • Mar 25, 2026
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
12
Views
576
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Apr 3, 2026
LILCBRA
Sound deadener install
  • limp
  • Jun 15, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
8
Views
282
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Jun 17, 2026
limp
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?