Please delete

[mustystang]

Please delete

 

[RaggedGT]

You sure it’s just not the drag of the pump- pumping?

 

[cbxer55]

I had to replace the water pump on my 4.0 earlier this year, the seal around the shaft had pushed out. But I fail to see how any other parts on the belt path are going to affect the water pump.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

You are overthinking this. I will try to clear some things up.
First, the timing belt and chain driven pumps are different than the front accessory serpentine belt drives. A New Beetle water pump can take out the timing belt and the engine. I believe yours is still an externally driven pump like this.

https://www.carparts.com/details/Ford/Mustang/DriveMotive/Water_Pump/2005/REPF313518.html?TID=bngpla&origin=%7Badtype%7D&msclkid=ded66a29ddd710ba5508092dc97af282&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BST%20-%20PL2%20-%20DriveMotive%20-%20Water%20Pump&utm_term=4577266909781960&utm_content=CPS%20-%20PL2%20-%20Water%20Pump%20-%20Margin%2040&gclid=ded66a29ddd710ba5508092dc97af282&gclsrc=3p.ds

(@Mustang5L5 please verify or debunk that for me.)

Which side of the belt goes around the water pump pulley on your car? On the serpentine drives I am most familiar with, it is the smooth side. If one of the other accessories were to be out of alignment, that's no big deal for the smooth pulley. The belt will slide over the WP pulley without groves.

If the power steering pump freezes, it snaps the the serpentine belt rather quickly, possibly after making some horrible slipping noise. Over tensioning belts is hard on the accessory drive bearings. That’s easier to do with three V belts than a spring loaded tensioner on a flat belt. (I hope Ford did not go back to a manual tensioner for your year.)
If an alternator bearing sounds bad or dry, it might run a long time that way, but it will not get better. If it is under warranty, please use it so you are not stranded. But the chances of it taking the WP out are quite slim.

 

[manicmechanic007]

It is the drag of the pump starting to build pressure
Normal
I think you are worrying a bit too much mustystang
The alternators do squeek slightly, also normal
It is the tensioner and idler pulleys that need replacement regularly

 

[manicmechanic007]

I thought you said it was the power steering pump pulley you were turning
You can spray a little grease on the spring in the tensioner and free it up some
I would consider Motorcraft Iridium plugs
It was always just the brushes in the alternator causing the squeek
They must have put some stop leak in it? was the crud?
Too bad about the heater core
Did you get that fixed?

 

[manicmechanic007]

Well, the housing will be plastic and the thermostat metal
The HD cast one might not come out in 3 pieces in 2 years
It is real common to need a new thermostat real quick on the ones that will turn on the check engine light over it
Like you said every 40 thou

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I would post a picture but it's too horrific.

That would be informative. Please reconsider posting it. We might end up with one of these engines in a Ranger or Mustang and need to know what to look out for.

 

[cbxer55]

I replaced the stupid plastic thermostat housing with a one piece aluminum one in 2020. The stock plastic one cracks at a seam, since it is a two-piece POS. Just do it. Best $90 you'll spend.

 

[manicmechanic007]

The dreaded P0128 comes up on many cars these days
Used to crack those t stat housings once in a while
Personally glad the new ones come with a housing (sure buy the better one if you want)
And now that you have to replace them every two years
Better just be nice to the bolts

 

[manicmechanic007]

Replace every two years
The thermostat
You will either have no heat or the check engine light will be on saying the engine has not reached operating temperature
Flush the rust out using Ford cooling system cleaner

 

[manicmechanic007]

Some cars will go 10 years +
It depends on what car you are talking about
I have never put a thermostat in my 4 runner or Camry
Some are designed better? Better materials? Who knows
Some Mazdas turn on the check engine light every other year Code P0128
No registration until you get it fixed

 

[cbxer55]

Haha. In Oklahoma, we don't have smog or safety checks. My old 98 Ranger would never make it, nor would my 04 Lightning. EGR deleted from both. Aftermarket intake and exhaust on both. Ranger has a chip on the ECM, Lightning is tuned. I'm not even sure how the Ranger even runs anymore. Got caught in a heavy rain one fine evening, and it stalled (open hood scoop). It used to have four codes showing full time, and still ran great. After I finally got it running again, all codes are gone, even though the EGR is deleted. O2 sensors are factory stock going on 183,000 miles. Yet it runs like a scalded cat.

 

[manicmechanic007]

It is coming to you all eventually
Been dealing with it here Gestapo style since 1984 in Utah
I was among the first class of technician graduates to administer their Bullsheet
Dyno testing in Salt Lake so even a breaking down plug wire under load fails you
Thank god for 4 wheel drive cars (they currently cannot be dyno tested)

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Update:

I think may heater core may be clogged? It is relatively new and I'm in the process of flushing old coolant and contaminants out of my car. I will flush the core when I can get to the store to get some supplies. Right now running heat on full blast it comes out ice cold with just water in the system. If I rev the engine some I can feel a slight bit of heat come out. Is it possible I'm just not letting the engine warm up enough for the heat to work? I started getting that coolant smell again when I revved the engine so I backed off a little and shut the car off. I'll drain and refill again for the 20th time and see what happens.

With the antifreeze smell and worrying about the heater core, do you have a drip inside? Is the windshield hazing up?
It’s time to borrow a coolant system pressure checker thing set. The adaptor goes on in place of the radiator cap, or in between the cap and the radiator. Then a hand pump and a gauge pumps up the pressure th the system and with the car still cold, you can see 2. If it holds pressure, and 2. Usually where the leak is.
The chain parts stores usually have a similar kit to check out.
DAYUAN 28pcs Universal Radiator Pressure Tester Kit, coolant Pressure Tester kit coolant Vacuum Refill kit for Cooling System https://a.co/d/hubR8JT

What temp of thermostat did you put back in and how long are your running the car? Is the radiator and upper rad. hose getting hot?
Also, a bubble in the system might prevent the heater core from getting warm.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Air will not hurt a heater core.
If they pressure tested it, it should be fine.

 

[manicmechanic007]

Do not drain the coolant
Sounds like you just about have it full of coolant
That is, if you were starting to get a little heat out of it by increasing the rpm
Pull it out of the garage when you run it

 

[manicmechanic007]

Just for chits and grinns take the radiator cap off it cold and start the car
The coolant should be just sitting there in the radiator if you look
If it is swirling or circulating your thermostat is open when it should not be
If it comes shooting out of the radiator like Old Faithful you got trouble (head gaskets)
Good luck

 

[manicmechanic007]

I mean coolant shooting out the radiator cap cold is not good.
Yours just looks a bit rusty to me
Flush it again when you can afford it

 

[Potomus Pete]

When I goy my old Jeep the heater was clogged with rust particles. I blew it out with the hose, and it took three times. Full of mud.