please help!! car dying!

I'm not sure if your 86 is like my 88 (not experienced enough with pre 87,) but if you have an IAC you could always clean that up with carb cleaner.. and also the TB while you're at it.. cleaning the IAC fixed my stalling at startup problem.. shrug.. good luck.

I have a similiar problem mine will start and idle good for about a minute then it starts to surge realy bad and then it finaly dies,after it dies its hard to start i have to crank and crank on it then it will start,and do the same thing over again it will run forever if you keep the rpms up and dont let it die does anyone no what causes this? SORRY FOR ASKING THIS ? ON YOUR THREAD.

accidentprone86 said:

I really have no way of testing the ignition and fuel. when it dies i am always in trafic and it only last for a few mins and it only happens so times so i dont know if it is fuel or spark. i can hear the fuel pump prime though.

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I agree with Andy about cleaning the IAC. i think i posted the procedure for cleaning and setting the idle on one of your other threads on this issue.

grab a spare spark plug and keep it with you. when the car dies, remove a plug wire at the plug and insert your spare plug. set the threads of the plug on the upper intake (so the threads are grounded) and crank the car. if you have spark, you HAVE spark.

next step would be getting a diagnostic fuel pressure gauge. 20 bucks or so at parts stores - very useful tool to have in your toolbox. toss it on the schrader valve when the car dies and see what kind of pressure you have. it just screws onto the valve - very easy to do.

both of these tests take under 30 seconds to set up and perform - you can do them when the car dies and before it restarts. make sure you are safely off the road and all that before doing any such testing.

good luck.

accidentprone86 said:

Ill have to test it. as hard as it will be.
Anybody have any ideas what else would cause such a spuratic problem?
Maybe the cpu is bad?

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Isolate the problem to fuel, spark, or loss of electric power. The computers seldom go bad, and almost never are intermittent.

Use this checklist to elminate the things that work so you can find the thing that doesn't work...

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD or Crane ignition box if so equipped
B.) Coil
C.) TFI module
D.) PIP sensor in distributor
E.) ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
F.) Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid.
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire.
H.) Computer

See the following links for wiring diagrams...

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for 79-88 model cars

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a.jsp for 89-93 model cars

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-98 model cars


2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have.

No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay. The fuse links live in the wiring harness near the starter solenoid.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

A.) A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

a.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
b.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
c.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.


4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off: only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
E.) No start when hot - Press the throttle to the floor & try starting it if you get this far. If it starts, replace the ECT.

You may want to take a look at this, it's from http://eleanor.pro3i.com/showthread.php?t=543134

Just an update on my problem. I was on vacation last week and didn't get a chance to work on this. Although I have not fixed my problem yet, I have become very familar with the computer system... in particular, the ignition system from everyone's help as well as searching the internet. I have found a couple of good write-ups that someone could add to thier libraries if they wanted to. I found a Wells article that was very informative that might help others understand the power of true troubleshooting as they have explained.

I bought a PIP sensor last week and plan on changing it this week, so hopefully this is the problem. I had the TFI module tested this morning at Autozone and it checked out ok. Anyhow, there are 2 articles from Wells. They troubleshoot some ignition problems on a 1994 Mustang and tease you at the end of the 1st article, but the 2nd article has the diagnosis with the corrective action. I recommend anyone who has or has had ignition problems to read them. Good stuff!

Wells Article 1
http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/counter..._v8_i2_2004.pdf

Wells Article 2
http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/counter..._v8_i3_2004.pdf

Other TFI/PIP Articles
http://www.onr.com/user/pbooth/mustang/tfi.html

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6

I will let everyone know the results after I change the PIP.

Tim
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Tim, you are playing tricks with my head and the usernames.

EDIT: Almost Stock, did you cut/paste Tim's post from his thread and not note that it was his quote? I thought he had two accounts.

HISSIN50 said:

EDIT: Almost Stock, did you cut/paste Tim's post from his thread and not note that it was his quote? I thought he had two accounts.

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Yep I did forget to wrap it in quotes..