Problem #7
On rare occasions I get code 67 (neutral pressure switch or clutch switch circuit failure) when doing a KOEO test. This of course prevents me from doing a KOER test as well. The code usually goes away fairly quickly, but I read some discussions on how code 67 can cause a surging idle. The transmission in the Jeep is a manual with "granny low" from an older Ford F-150 or F-250. There don't appear to be any wires coming out of it, so I'm not sure what occasionally causes code 67 or how to troubleshoot it.
The code 33 is telling the computer to turn the EGR fuction off. So even with the EGR valve present, it's not functioning. The code 84 may be related. You could be missing the proper vacuum connection or someof the wiring. Hard to see with no pic. But with the code 33 stored, the function is disabled so the engine isn't pulling fuel at part throttle.
Running poorly with the O2 sensors is a sign that there is an issue with some sensor somewhere. Without knowing what's in the car, it's hard to guess. First thing I'd do is find the EEC and run the model to determine if this is a speed density computer, and if it's for an automatic, or manual car. Considering you don't have any MAF codes, i'd bet the engine is set up as an 86-88 Speed density car. Wh
Can you post a photo of the engine? While i realize parts can be swapped, the intake plaque should be a good starting point.
These are prob related. What ignition module are you using? most aftermarket ones are junk. Are you applying them with generous amounts of heat sink grease? Heat kills these things.
This is very interesting. I will try to get a picture posted soon. For the moment I can tell you that the intake plaque looks similar to the 1986 plaque you posted, but it reads "FORD 5.0 LITER EFI".
Might not even be a Mustang engine. It could be a 5.0 standard output engine that came on various town cars and crown vics, thunderbirds etc. There are some differences. #1 being the firing order.
Using a mustang computer with a standard output 5.0 firing order could cause some issue. You def want to dig out the computer and identify it, and then focus on identifying the engine
Pulling the computer is going to be a nightmare. It is tucked up behind the dash of the Jeep and only partially visible by opening the glove box door. The wires are facing the glove box door, so if there is a way to identify the computer by just looking at the end with the wires I would love to know.
You just need the part number located on a sticker on the end of the computer. Can you see that?
Any other numbers? Starting with E7 or E9 or anything along the lines? Pretty much post anything you find on there. The more info the better.
... You are basically looking for a sticker like this. ...
So moving on...
I reinstalled the computer and took the Jeep for another short drive. This time I went outside of the neighborhood. The engine is definitely stumbling and hesitating, likely because of whatever is causing code 14. As soon as I returned home and parked the Jeep, I propped the hood open. After about 20 minutes I went back to the Jeep and felt the distributor behind the ignition control module. It was still HOT!
I think it is safe to assume that this new ignition control module was either questionable to begin with or cooked itself very quickly. I'll go to AutoZone this morning to swap it out for another one. Regardless, something needs to be done to help control the heat on these things or they will surely continue to fail on me. Are there any other ignition components and/or ground/wiring issues that could possibly be causing the ignition control module to generate so much heat?
A remote mounted ignition control module (something like THIS) may be a future project for me, but for now I need to deal with what I've got.
Can you determine the firing order currently being used?
I wonder if there is a wiring issue or something causing the module to overheat?
Is the unit hot from heat soak of nearby components...or is it overheating internally?
I am wondering the same thing, but I don't know what to look for. I always thought the ignition control module was heat soaking from the distributor, but now that I'm examining things more closely it seems that the flat surface on the distributor that the ignition control module mounts to is much hotter than any other area of the distributor.
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